Car wont start / clicking noises
Discussion
Having not driven my 3R for a good couple of months i wasn't surprised when the battery was complete flat. I have an Accumate with the cigarette socket adaptor so i thought a few days charge and it would be fine. After a few days, the alarm and central locking now worked but nothing at all when i tried turning the engine over, not even any noise from the starter motor. I then bought an Optimate 3 thinking that if the battery was slightly sulphated and preventing a full charge that this might sort it out. I managed to connect the crocodile clips directly to the battery and left it on charge for another few days. I've just been outside to check the charger status and it still shows yellow light ie charging, but thought id see if the engine turned over yet. What i now get as soon as i switch the ignition on after disarming the immobiliser is a rapid clicking noise from the battery area (starter motor?) and a similar noise from the area on top of the engine(??). The instruments lights on the centre console also flicker in time with the clicking noise. When i try and turn the engine over the clicking just gets faster and nothing else. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be?? Thanks for any help!
The battery is dead, possibly lost a cell, as such there is insufficent 'power' available to engage the starter (the clicking you hear is from the solenoid) and turn the engine over at the same time.
Essentialy the battery is scrap and you need to replace it with a fresh one.
It's never a good idea to let a lead acid battery discharge, especialy not completely flat as the chances of it holding a proper charge again afterwards are slim.
Best Regards
Matt
Essentialy the battery is scrap and you need to replace it with a fresh one.
It's never a good idea to let a lead acid battery discharge, especialy not completely flat as the chances of it holding a proper charge again afterwards are slim.
Best Regards
Matt
Thanks for the speedy reply Matt. Would it still do this even without attempting to turn the engine over?? Do you know what the second clicking noise is, i guess its just related to the solenoid issue, ditto the flickering instruments??
>> Edited by ADParker on Sunday 19th February 14:02
>> Edited by ADParker on Sunday 19th February 14:02
Apologies thought you were getting a clicking noise when turning the key/pressing the button to turn the engine over.
The clicking will be one of the many relays. It's not a good idea to leave it/them clicking away as it doesn't do them much good!
Put a fresh battery on it and it'll be fine. If the one that is on there won't hold a charge by now then it's not going to I'm afraid.
Any problems feel free to give me a ring, number is on the website.
Best Regards
Matt
The clicking will be one of the many relays. It's not a good idea to leave it/them clicking away as it doesn't do them much good!
Put a fresh battery on it and it'll be fine. If the one that is on there won't hold a charge by now then it's not going to I'm afraid.
Any problems feel free to give me a ring, number is on the website.
Best Regards
Matt
Yep - Matt is correct, you basically have a shagged battery
.
LA's really get stuffed if they loose their charge, and whilst the Optimate claim to be able to reverse it, they can only do so if actually the fundamentals are still correct in the battery. Leaving it for the time you did will mean that won't be the case as it hasn't discharged due to 'natural wastage', but by the fact that there are quite a few live circuits in the Noble even with the ignition off and so there would have been a constant drain on it. This sort of discharge causes unreversable damage to the main plates, and it sounds like you have a plate shortage at the bottom of the battery due to deposit build up, and hence you will never be able to get it back.
A new battery is the only answer. It's a pain to replace though as it can only be done "from below" - give Matt a ring if you need full instructions.
J
. LA's really get stuffed if they loose their charge, and whilst the Optimate claim to be able to reverse it, they can only do so if actually the fundamentals are still correct in the battery. Leaving it for the time you did will mean that won't be the case as it hasn't discharged due to 'natural wastage', but by the fact that there are quite a few live circuits in the Noble even with the ignition off and so there would have been a constant drain on it. This sort of discharge causes unreversable damage to the main plates, and it sounds like you have a plate shortage at the bottom of the battery due to deposit build up, and hence you will never be able to get it back.
A new battery is the only answer. It's a pain to replace though as it can only be done "from below" - give Matt a ring if you need full instructions.
J
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