Rear trailing arm removal?

[liamp_99]

Hi

I am in the process of re-painting the whole chassis and so need to remove the rear trailing arms from the rest of the chassis.
I have just read the bible, this talks about the hub nut being extremely tight and that it can only be undone by a 3/4" drive socket and bar, is this the case ?
Has anybody else managed to undo them using a normal 1/2" drive bar and socket?
Once I have it undone, what about the re tightening, does anybody know the correct torque?

Cheers

[steve j]

Hi Liam, I have also read about the hub nuts. On page162 of the bible it quotes 185- 214 lb/ft of torque, seems a lot to me!! also mentions on page 161 about left hand threads ooer. I believe it is all Sierra gear so maybe a call to Fords may give you a real answer or look at a Haynes manual for the Sierra, hope this helps.
Steve j.

[GreenV8S]

I'd be inclined to look at other options before removing the hub nut. If you only need to get at the chassis, can you leave the transmission intact? Or split it at a CV joint? Stripping the rear hubs seems rather extreme unless you're going for a full rebuild.

[liamp_99]

I suppose I am doing a complete strip down, the only thing left on the chassis is the diff and the rear trailing arms, it would seem a shame to leave these on and paint around them when everything else has been stripped and painted?

Any ideas of ways around it or getting the things undone?

[ralph s3]

MIne were very tight. WIth the body off and two grown men lying across the chassis to stop it moving it took a 6ft scaffold pole to undo them. I would be inclined to remove the driveshaft (assuming the torx bolts aren't jammed tight) and leave the hub on the trailing arm. From the look of mine the area around the hub doesn't rust too badly. Its the tubes you need to watch.

Ralph

[GreenV8S]

If you're taking the diff out then I guess you will unbolt the CV joints from the diff, that gets the half shafts and trailing arms off as a unit, up to you whether you want to dismantle the hubs too but if you do then do it while they're still on the car. If you're leaving the diff in and want to get the half shafts and trailing arms clear of the car then remember that CV joints just pull apart, there's nothing holding them together other than the rubber bellows.

[geoff c]

sorry mate----its blood and snot time! hacksaw the nut at a 45 degree angle till you start seeing the thread then cold chisle and a FBH(EFFING BIG HAMMER)yes they are handed right hand thread left hand thread and yes they are off a sierra tried getting one of mine off (wd 40 didnt work) pulled the car half way up the drive !!!! they are torqued up to 185-220 have fun!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mr Plow]

Thanks for all the replies.

I think I'm going to go for it and try and get them off. If I'm doing the job I may as well do it properly. Like the idea of the hacksaw and cold chisel, I think thats the way I'll try ??

The chassis is already stripped at the front so I don't think I will be able to undo them, as I will have no leverage?

Which side is which, is the passenger side the side with the opposite thread ?

Sorry, forgot to say, I have changed my Nickname from liamp_99 to Mr Plow !!

>> Edited by Mr Plow on Wednesday 25th January 09:47

[Mr Plow]

Done it, got them both undone, used an air gun in the end. Had to borrow the gun and use the compressor at work, only need to work out how to do them up to the correct torque now!!
Glad I have undone them, it has highlighted just how bad the trailing arms were.
Getting replacements in the next few days.
TVR car parts have helped out again!!

[mmickgoodall]

Before you start atacking everything with hammers/bars etc.
It you want to take them off as an assembly you could always undo the ring of allen bolts that hold the driveshaft's on to the diff and then remove the whole lot in one big peice.
Mick.

[mmickgoodall]

Oop's late again.
Well done anyway, and my way wouldnt have been any good to you if your changing the trailing arms as well.
keep us posted on the rebuild. My own rebuild is featured in next month's Practicl Classics mag.

Regards Mick.

[liamp_99]

looking forward to reading it. hopefully give me a few tips!! Hope it won't put my rebuild to shame though ?

>> Edited by liamp_99 on Monday 6th February 19:42

[the gazman]

liamp_99 said:

Hi I am in the process of re-painting the whole chassis and so need to remove the rear trailing arms from the rest of the chassis. I have just read the bible, this talks about the hub nut being extremely tight and that it can only be undone by a 3/4" drive socket and bar, is this the case ? Has anybody else managed to undo them using a normal 1/2" drive bar and socket? Once I have it undone, what about the re tightening, does anybody know the correct torque? Cheers

Looking forward to seeing this car at SCH, looks like a winner to me.