Loft Insulation
Discussion
Chaps,
Zcacogp Towers is a little nippy these days. Accompanying the seasonal drop in temperature outside has been something of a drop in temperature inside as well. And the degree of that drop has been quite alarming.
So, insulation-ho! The lofts are currently sporting around 3 inches of old fibreglass insulation roll. Last weekend I increased this to nearer 8 inches in half of one loft, and plan to finish the job this weekend. My question is, is fibreglass roll such as you buy from B&Q better than the likes of this:
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=3TUUFGAEFHHS3CJO2C3CIIQ?cId=101893&ts=73623&id=29949
(Screwfix product 29949.)
Fibreglass is easy to use, but cumbersome and very unpleasant to lay (the lofts are quite confined.) This stuff (above) looks to be a similar price, but I am wondering whether it will be as good at insulating as fibreglass. Or should I use the two together (fibreglass on top of this silver-roll stuff.)
Another question. What are the options (if any) for insulating walls? The house is Georgian, built of London Brick. I doubt very much whether there is any wall insulation in place at all, and am wondering whether it is possible to add any. I guess that you could use this silver-roll stuff on the inside of walls, and then put a layer of plasterboard over the top, but this would be a fairly major job and would involve redecorating. What other options (if any) are there?
Oli.
Zcacogp Towers is a little nippy these days. Accompanying the seasonal drop in temperature outside has been something of a drop in temperature inside as well. And the degree of that drop has been quite alarming.
So, insulation-ho! The lofts are currently sporting around 3 inches of old fibreglass insulation roll. Last weekend I increased this to nearer 8 inches in half of one loft, and plan to finish the job this weekend. My question is, is fibreglass roll such as you buy from B&Q better than the likes of this:
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=3TUUFGAEFHHS3CJO2C3CIIQ?cId=101893&ts=73623&id=29949
(Screwfix product 29949.)
Fibreglass is easy to use, but cumbersome and very unpleasant to lay (the lofts are quite confined.) This stuff (above) looks to be a similar price, but I am wondering whether it will be as good at insulating as fibreglass. Or should I use the two together (fibreglass on top of this silver-roll stuff.)
Another question. What are the options (if any) for insulating walls? The house is Georgian, built of London Brick. I doubt very much whether there is any wall insulation in place at all, and am wondering whether it is possible to add any. I guess that you could use this silver-roll stuff on the inside of walls, and then put a layer of plasterboard over the top, but this would be a fairly major job and would involve redecorating. What other options (if any) are there?
Oli.
zcacogp said:
Another question. What are the options (if any) for insulating walls?
cavity wall insulation if your walls are hollow
www.est.org.uk/myhome/insulation/cwi/what/
That silver sheet will reflect radiant heat but will not insulate as much as a rockwool quilt. A similar sheet to that is sometimes used on modern timber-framed houses to reduce, but not replace, the insulation required within the wall structure.
As to ways to improve the insulation of your walls, you could try a laminate plasterboard
www.british-gypsum.com/immediacy-1256
If you measure the thickness of your external walls and they are about 215mm thick then you most probably have solid walls, in which case there is no cavity to insulate. If they are thicker then you may well have a cavity. (Try drilling through to see). If so, you have more options.
As to ways to improve the insulation of your walls, you could try a laminate plasterboard
www.british-gypsum.com/immediacy-1256
If you measure the thickness of your external walls and they are about 215mm thick then you most probably have solid walls, in which case there is no cavity to insulate. If they are thicker then you may well have a cavity. (Try drilling through to see). If so, you have more options.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Tonker, Thanks. Good suggestions. There are two chimneys, one of which is used, so it can't be blocked off. However, how would you go about insulating the other one? Jam insulation roll down it, or just block it off?
Yes, it does have single-pane sash windows, but these are original and I'm not allowed to change them as it's in a conservation area. (Very annoyingly, it was declared a conservation area about 12 years ago, and several houses on the streets had double glazing installed prior to this. However, to have this fitted now would be prohibited by the local council.)
Another area to work on is draughts - under the front, back and cellar doors particularly. (I can only assume that the previous owners either spent a fortune on heating each winter or froze ... )
However, back to the original question. Insulation ... anyone able to offer advice?
Oli.
If possible, lay 10" of loft insulation, though obviously if you are often up in the loft iwthout boards, you may only want to lay to the level of the joists. Fibreglass is ok, but the stuff most insulation firms use now is a man-made fibre, which is far nicer and easier to lay, and better for your health (no shards to inhale!).
Instead of B&Q, try approaching your local insulation firms to see if they will sell you it direct - it will probably be a lot cheaper!
As previously mentioned, get your walls done if not already insulated (obviously only an option if you have cavity walls!)
Also, look to getting draught-proofing measures installed, such as round your windows and doors.
Some other tips would include - insulating the loft hatch itself, lined curtains at windows, and ensuring curtains hang behind, not in front of windows, as this just channels the heat up and out of the window.
Hope that helps a little
Instead of B&Q, try approaching your local insulation firms to see if they will sell you it direct - it will probably be a lot cheaper!
As previously mentioned, get your walls done if not already insulated (obviously only an option if you have cavity walls!)
Also, look to getting draught-proofing measures installed, such as round your windows and doors.
Some other tips would include - insulating the loft hatch itself, lined curtains at windows, and ensuring curtains hang behind, not in front of windows, as this just channels the heat up and out of the window.
Hope that helps a little
xm5er said:
There are a few companies about who will fit it for you and claim a grant off Gordon, I had a few ring me last year and they're doing cavity walls now. It will cost you about £100 IIRC, similar for the walls and they put in the hard work.
Scottish Power have grants available to anyone, which subsidises upto 50% of the cost of insulation. AFAIK it made it about £200 to have a 3-bed semi insulated, but if the property is protected, will he be allowed to have the blow-holes drilled? Even the best inulators can't do it and fill the holes without leaving marks.
I dont know if every council has one, but we have an energy advice service who can advise on what grants are available.
some points to think about
Sheeps wool insulation is available - which is great stuff and no irritation like you get with the fibreglass and rockwool stuff, have used it in several projects myself - the contractors are initally sckeptical, but then praise the stuff
www.secondnatureuk.com
be careful when blocking up any redundant chimneys - it is recommened to fit a ventilation panel to the stack to avoid damp problems - Also chimneys provide a good means of through ventilation, helps keep down dust problems
as has been mentioned - could look at secondary glazing to your windows - i interperate this as a second openable windown fitted behind the outside windows.. either level with the inside wall, or halfway in the window recess
Sheeps wool insulation is available - which is great stuff and no irritation like you get with the fibreglass and rockwool stuff, have used it in several projects myself - the contractors are initally sckeptical, but then praise the stuff
www.secondnatureuk.com
be careful when blocking up any redundant chimneys - it is recommened to fit a ventilation panel to the stack to avoid damp problems - Also chimneys provide a good means of through ventilation, helps keep down dust problems
as has been mentioned - could look at secondary glazing to your windows - i interperate this as a second openable windown fitted behind the outside windows.. either level with the inside wall, or halfway in the window recess
The link looks like a product called Tri Iso Super 9, which is made up of 14 very thin layers of foam/foil & works as well as several inches of loft insulation.
It can be used in roofs, attic rooms, walls & timber floors. You can fit it directly to the bottom of your roof joists.
www.actis-isolation.com
Its not cheap, but it works really well - let me know if I can be of any help.
Nick
www.tbrewer.co.uk
It can be used in roofs, attic rooms, walls & timber floors. You can fit it directly to the bottom of your roof joists.
www.actis-isolation.com
Its not cheap, but it works really well - let me know if I can be of any help.
Nick
www.tbrewer.co.uk
Sorry for crashing - but looking at such things too!
I've got 5 inch glass fibre in my roof can't have more due to the loft being used for storage, but would like to line the inside of the roof tiles with something to increase insulation - can I put the silver stuff onto the tiles in the loft?
Just been cavity wall insulated - very very cosy downstairs, slightly less cosy upstairs!
I've got 5 inch glass fibre in my roof can't have more due to the loft being used for storage, but would like to line the inside of the roof tiles with something to increase insulation - can I put the silver stuff onto the tiles in the loft?
Just been cavity wall insulated - very very cosy downstairs, slightly less cosy upstairs!
with regards to cavity wall insulation, here's an alternatice view
www.telegraph.co.uk/property/main.jhtml?xml=/property/2005/11/23/pjeff23.xml&sSheet=/property/2005/11/26/ixpright12.html
I am not knowledgeable to comment myself
www.telegraph.co.uk/property/main.jhtml?xml=/property/2005/11/23/pjeff23.xml&sSheet=/property/2005/11/26/ixpright12.html
I am not knowledgeable to comment myself
ncs said:
The link looks like a product called Tri Iso Super 9, which is made up of 14 very thin layers of foam/foil & works as well as several inches of loft insulation.
It can be used in roofs, attic rooms, walls & timber floors. You can fit it directly to the bottom of your roof joists.
www.actis-isolation.com
Its not cheap, but it works really well - let me know if I can be of any help.
Nick
www.tbrewer.co.uk
Before i changed jobs - the last place had specced Tri Iso 9 for a reroofing job on the local council estate as a trial run to see if it was worth rolling out on the other council reroofing jobs...
i believe there was some problems with condensation/vapour permiability since the TI9 is virtually water tight with its layers of plastic foam and tinfoil. They where investigating the problem when i left (i wasnt personally involved in the job) so i dont know the outcome, i can always email the chap in charge to see the outcome.
their inital thoughts where that the way in which it was fixed (stapled to the roof trusses) was the cause - ie the staple acted as a cold bridge, with vapour attracted to it, causing the condensation problem
i think zcacogp said:
Yes, it does have single-pane sash windows, but these are original and I'm not allowed to change them as it's in a conservation area.
Just for the record, you can get replacement, wooden, double-glazed sash units, and they are normally accepted in conservation areas. You will require planning permission, but it should not be a problem - check your Council website for info or at least a contact.
The units are rather expensive, but if you also have noise problems as well they might be worth investigating.
zcacogp said:
Another question. What are the options (if any) for insulating walls? The house is Georgian, built of London Brick. I doubt very much whether there is any wall insulation in place at all, and am wondering whether it is possible to add any. I guess that you could use this silver-roll stuff on the inside of walls, and then put a layer of plasterboard over the top, but this would be a fairly major job and would involve redecorating. What other options (if any) are there?
Oli.
Leave your walls alone. They're 200-300 years old, and have worked fine for this length of time. Don't even think about filling the cavities with any insulation, not unless you want to be spending a lot of money in future repairing damp problems. And if you ever have the external walls repointed, you don't want to be using modern cement.
Do not block your chimnies up. You must allow the flues to ventilate. There is several centuries of soot up there. Once you seal it up, it will get damp and the soot will become acidic. Acid eats away at the mortar and leaves (that divide the flues in the stack), and you'll be looking at repairing a chimney - thats not cheap. Also pay attention to the backs of gas fireplaces - they attract condensation, which isn't good for the reasons I've just stated.
The best solutions are usually the simplest - if you have floorboards, carpet the floor. Keep downstairs doors closed. Close the curtains.
This is an old house. You cannot seal it up - it needs ventilating. By all means at this time of year use tissue paper in the sash windows to seal any gaps, or put rugs over any floorboards that are loose, but under no circumstances must you consider cavity wall insulation, damp proof courses, sealing up chimnies, etc - you'll wreck the place. Besides, I bet it would take at least TEN YEARS to recoup the cost of these 'solutions' on your heating bill. Is it worth it?
Parrot of doom said:
The house is Georgian, built of London Brick.
This is an old house,but under no circumstances must you consider cavity wall insulation,you'll wreck it
Good point. Trying to blast foam into a non cavity wall is a no no..
FFS... Font of knowledge you are not.
Tis Georgian.... not a Wimpey build.
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