Bedding in new Toyos
Discussion
OK, two new Toyo T1-Rs fitted to rear wheels. Now I know they take a bit of bedding in but
When entering a damp roundabout on anything more than idle throttle, I need both lanes and a windscreen wiper on the driver's side window. I did look damned cool though, even if I do say so myself
I've tried to heat them up a bit with a few tight circles in a car park but that just heated up the front tyres (and confused the other people in the car park). Obviously doughnuts warm them up but that can't be good for new tyres.
Any suggestions to aid the curing process in this weather?
Ian A.
When entering a damp roundabout on anything more than idle throttle, I need both lanes and a windscreen wiper on the driver's side window. I did look damned cool though, even if I do say so myself
I've tried to heat them up a bit with a few tight circles in a car park but that just heated up the front tyres (and confused the other people in the car park). Obviously doughnuts warm them up but that can't be good for new tyres.
Any suggestions to aid the curing process in this weather?
Ian A.
gerjo said:
Mine R's (rear) took a LONG time to bed in, some 2000 miles incl a trackday. I found them VERY scary, even in the dry, when new so I did some sprints, although I think you are not supposed to do that. You could lower the pressure a bit.
I'm already running them at 22psi rear (same as the S03s). It's actually quite entertaining, especially as I'm no longer using the Griff as a daily driver. Oh well, a 2000 mile road trip is on the cards.
Ian A.
I replaced my Bridgestone RE040s with T1-Rs on my Z, and it took 3,000 miles for them to bed in. I wasn't entirely sure it was the tyres only though as having Bridgestones on the front and Toyos on the back probably accounted for some of the lack of stability.
Planning to get T1-Rs on the front as well soon so i'll have an even better idea then.
Planning to get T1-Rs on the front as well soon so i'll have an even better idea then.
Give them ten miles to scrub the release agent off and a hundred miles to buff the surface, then put them through a couple of heat cycles. The procedure for heat cycling the tyre requires you to work the tyres hard for ten minutes of so without actually sliding or squealing the tyres, and then let them cool down naturally. It helps to over-inflat the tyres slightly in cold weather to increase the tread distortion during the heating phase; in hot weather you don't need to bother with this. Finally set the pressure back to normal.
GreenV8S said:
Give them ten miles to scrub the release agent off and a hundred miles to buff the surface...
Check!
GreenV8S said:
... then put them through a couple of heat cycles. The procedure for heat cycling the tyre requires you to work the tyres hard for ten minutes of so without actually sliding or squealing the tyres, and then let them cool down naturally.
Hmm, this could be tricky. In this weather, I can't get them hot without some commited cornering and that just results in lots of sliding (and the front tyres getting VERY hot).
I'll try my best though, thanks Peter!
Ian A.
>> Edited by IPAddis on Monday 28th November 16:43
I had a pair or T1-Rs on the rear of my Chimaera last February (I have them on the fronts now too).
Cool weather's never a good time to buy new tyres, but if you need 'em, then you need 'em.
It did take a few hundred miles before the squirmy un-nerving feeling dissapeared - stick with it 'cos after that, they'll be brill.
Cool weather's never a good time to buy new tyres, but if you need 'em, then you need 'em.
It did take a few hundred miles before the squirmy un-nerving feeling dissapeared - stick with it 'cos after that, they'll be brill.
chim666 said:
I had a pair or T1-Rs on the rear of my Chimaera last February (I have them on the fronts now too).
Cool weather's never a good time to buy new tyres, but if you need 'em, then you need 'em.
A nail rendered of the the previous tyres so flat that my digital tyre pressure gauge didn't even register the tyre's presence. However I take your point.
Ian A.
philip_cooke said:
I have T1-Rs on the back and T1-Ss on the front of my Tuscan. Can anybody explain in words of 1 syllable or less what the difference is between the two tryes please? Very easy to understand laymens terms would be good if possible.
Thanks
One has S written on the side and one has R written on the side!
The S apparently has a softer sidewall, has a slightly different tread pattern and a lower wear rating. Could be wrong though. The R replaced the S.
Ian A.
IPAddis said:Ian the side wall bit is very interesting as i put a pair on the rear last week and felt very odd. I thought just a case of bedding in but maybe not if you are correct?
The S apparently has a softer sidewall, has a slightly different tread pattern and a lower wear rating. Could be wrong though. The R replaced the S.
Ian A.
Lower wear rating on S or R does this mean longer life/less grip?
seasider said:
Ian the side wall bit is very interesting as i put a pair on the rear last week and felt very odd. I thought just a case of bedding in but maybe not if you are correct?
Lower wear rating on S or R does this mean longer life/less grip?
I THINK the S has the lower wear rating, hence it grips better but wears out quicker. I'm not sure on this though.
Ian A.
IPAddis said:"wear"
seasider said:
Ian the side wall bit is very interesting as i put a pair on the rear last week and felt very odd. I thought just a case of bedding in but maybe not if you are correct?
Lower wear rating on S or R does this mean longer life/less grip?
I THINK the S has the lower wear rating, hence it grips better but wears out quicker. I'm not sure on this though.
Ian A.
did you get the wall info?IPAddis said:
seasider said:
"wear" did you get the wall info?
I'm not sure, I may well have made it up or confused with the Bridgestone / Dunlop debate. Someone must have both S's and R's to compare?
Ian A.
I had S's all around. Rears needed replacing, ended up with R's. Don't know which ones are softer/wear quicker, all I can say is that to me it seems the S's have more grip.
As far as I understand from Toyo the R's have a stiffer wall.
Got the R's and putting them on in the next week or two to replace the S's. Car used daily so will report back.
The S's are brilliant both in the dry and the wet and much better than the Bridgestones they replaced.
I am a tad concerned at the comments and will be taking them off and returning them if they are not up to much.
FFG
The S's are brilliant both in the dry and the wet and much better than the Bridgestones they replaced.
I am a tad concerned at the comments and will be taking them off and returning them if they are not up to much.
FFG
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. Someone must have both S's and R's to compare?