Another problem with my Elise!!

[greysquirrel]

Please help! Have had the elise for about 6 months now, new suspension new lambda sensor and crank sensor and other minor repairs and it just seems to keep on breaking!
Its an S1 and the temp sensor was broken, as evidence when trying to remove it and it snapped leaving the threaded bit behind, so obviously i need a new chamber bit where the sensors go - so currently have no engine temp sensor.
The past couple of days the coolant tank has actually been boiling like a kettle! and last 2 very shirt runs have resulted in steam and loud noises coming from the coolant tank.
Checked the tank tonight and it was completely empty. Any ideas why it is getting so hot and how to stop it! hoping its not HGF!
Please help me!
Thanks

[boggy]

Stop using it now as your going to damage another sensor,

It's either head gasket or it could be cracked head or may be even a bottom liner seal, check the Oil for water can't you speak to the guy you brought it from ?

Boggy

>> Edited by boggy on Friday 25th November 17:15

>> Edited by boggy on Friday 25th November 17:17

>> Edited by boggy on Friday 25th November 17:17

[greysquirrel]

thanks boggy, knew you would have an answer... i know jack about the workings of cars so dont even know what to look for.
The dipstick is completely clean oil and the oil cap is metal so doesn't really hold the oil that well, how obvious is it going to be?
If it is a HGF, what does that entail to fix it? does it damage anything else?
Tks.

[boggy]

greysquirrel said:

thanks boggy, knew you would have an answer... i know jack about the workings of cars so dont even know what to look for. The dipstick is completely clean oil and the oil cap is metal so doesn't really hold the oil that well, how obvious is it going to be? If it is a HGF, what does that entail to fix it? does it damage anything else? Tks.

This sound's more and more like a cracked head behind the valves, your going to need to get this checked mate

Hopefully it shouldn't be to bad you should always get the head skimmed if you change the head gasket, make some enquires

Boggy

>> Edited by boggy on Friday 25th November 17:21

[boggy]

Hi all,

We really need one of the Technical guy's on this one, Bogie or someone would be the man to speak to, I could get you some help if you lived closer

Mogsmex may also be able to help ?

Boggy

>> Edited by boggy on Friday 25th November 17:26

[djroadboy]

The first thing to do is change the pressure cap on the coolant expansion tank. If the coolant isn't under pressure it will boil at a much lower temperature.

What temperature reading does the Stack give? Is the radiator getting hot? Is the fan kicking in?

With this information I'd have a much better idea of what's wrong.

HTH

Dan

Jude Performanvce Services Ltd.
www.judeperformance.co.uk

>> Edited by djroadboy on Friday 25th November 17:28

>> Edited by djroadboy on Friday 25th November 17:35

[boggy]

Here you go new someone would be able to help you better than me

Boggy

[greysquirrel]

Thanks Dan, im not too sure i will just run it outside my house and post the results, dont dare drive it now!

djroadboy said:

The first thing to do is change the pressure cap on the coolant expansion tank. If the coolant isn't under pressure it will boil at a much lower temperature. What temperature reading does the Stack give? Is the radiator getting hot? Is the fan kicking in? With this information I'd have a much better idea of what's wrong. HTH Dan Jude Performanvce Services Ltd. www.judeperformance.co.uk >> Edited by djroadboy on Friday 25th November 17:28 >> Edited by djroadboy on Friday 25th November 17:35

[djroadboy]

Make sure you top up the coolant first.

Dan

[greysquirrel]

yeah i have done! lol, how long should i leave it running for?

[djroadboy]

If you haven't driven it for a while it'll take 10 minutes to warm up. Maybe up to twenty to get hot. you'll have to rev it a bit to get the coolant to circulate through the rad once its warm. The water pump does virtually nothing at idle.

Dan

[djroadboy]

Obviously if the expansion tank empties or the coolant is boiling turn it off and see if the rad is hot and what the temperature reading is on the dash.

If you can get it to the point when the fan kicks in, make a note of the temperature on the dash when it kicks in.

Gotta go out for dinner with my good lady but I'll check back later to review your findings.

Good luck.

Dan

Jude Performance Services Ltd.
www.judeperformance.co.uk

[moles]

Take out AA parts and labour cover in the mean time as well.

[greysquirrel]

moles said:

Take out AA parts and labour cover in the mean time as well.

was going to ask about this, is it worth it, does it cover stuff like HGF?

[jonbanff]

i got the parts and labour AA cover and it does pay out for HGF. a good investment.

[moles]

Take it out now though, as you have to wait 15 days I think before you can claim.

[djroadboy]

Careful with this. They are getting wise to it and I have had two customers where they have refused to pay out after sending someone out ot my place to inspect the engine. They refused to pay on the grounds that the fault already existed before the policy was taken out.

Might be worth a try but might just be a waste of money.

HTH

Dan

Jude Performance Services Ltd.
www.judeperformance.co.uk

[greysquirrel]

ok finally had a chance to take her out for a run.. did a through town slow speed run for about 15 minutes and got back and the rad was stone cold, so i left it ticking over for 10 minutes and the radiator finally got hot to touch, and a little steam was coming off it (bit chilly at the mo!)
I dont have a temp reading on the stack display as that sensor appears to be in 2 pieces as when i checked it it came apart and dropped to the floor, i have a replacement but because the bottom half is stuck in (filling the hole) i cant get the bloody thing out!
Could it just be this sensor?
Thanks guys..

[jig]

This is an S1, so they have two sensors, 1 for the ECU and 1 for the Stack, right? So in that case, the fan should still be kicking in happily if you've only broken the Stack sensor. Is that correct Dan?

So I'd expect the rad fan to start working when the engine get's fully hot - is it doing so? It may simply be the case that the fan is not cutting in when you're stationary allowing the engine to overheat. Don't allow it to overheat!

[tuscan_thunder]

I'd fix the sensors before you do anything else - don't run it again til the sensors are replaced and you know they both work - if you don't the car may get so hot as to overheat without the fans coming on.

Once the sensors are working, it lets you move on to look at other aspects should the problem still be there. Can you over-ride the fan to get it to turn on without the car being up to heat? This makes sure the fan does actually work.

How's the oil filler cap looking - is there mayonnaise underneath it when you take it off? If there is, it points to HGF or cracked head.