MIL light on and bad start
Discussion
For the second time I experience MIL light on and staying after a strange start of my 111R. It is like the idle speed was too low , the choke hesitating to start. The idle speed was moving back and forth from 500 to 900 then idle speed stabilised around 1000. The car is otherwise running fine.
I went to the dealer already once for this and he raised the idle speed a little, because I complain of low idle and stalling car when making maneuvres (typically a quick U turn, first, rev a bit, brake, reverse and RPM where 500)
Does anybody had this? Any clue?
It happens more when car is cold but experience this also when warm, always at very slow speed (mainly maneuvres)
Thanks
I went to the dealer already once for this and he raised the idle speed a little, because I complain of low idle and stalling car when making maneuvres (typically a quick U turn, first, rev a bit, brake, reverse and RPM where 500)
Does anybody had this? Any clue?
It happens more when car is cold but experience this also when warm, always at very slow speed (mainly maneuvres)
Thanks
Went to the dealer and the computer said it was too lean mix so the sensor for emission start to work hence the mil light.
When asking for the idle speed, th explanation was less clear, something as choke is not mandatory for the ECU but valve is limit for is job so, the idle is hesitating (Does it make any sense?
)
When asking for the idle speed, th explanation was less clear, something as choke is not mandatory for the ECU but valve is limit for is job so, the idle is hesitating (Does it make any sense?
)Sorry should have mentioned this earlier.
Not sure that the service sorted it, however the idling issue is no longer a prob, however the MIL light is still coming on.
The Dealer, is still looking into it and the current synopsis is that its something to do with the ECU and some sort of Friction reading. (I Kid you not)
The cure is even more bizzare.
I have to drive the car to the 8500rpm limit in 2nd gear and then lift off the gas and let the car roll until it almost stalls. I need to to do this 5 times. This will then re-teach the ECU about what ever Friction reading it is supposed to be monitoring. Should make for an interesting 15mins when I take my lunch hour on my night shift.
Not sure that the service sorted it, however the idling issue is no longer a prob, however the MIL light is still coming on.
The Dealer, is still looking into it and the current synopsis is that its something to do with the ECU and some sort of Friction reading. (I Kid you not)
The cure is even more bizzare.
I have to drive the car to the 8500rpm limit in 2nd gear and then lift off the gas and let the car roll until it almost stalls. I need to to do this 5 times. This will then re-teach the ECU about what ever Friction reading it is supposed to be monitoring. Should make for an interesting 15mins when I take my lunch hour on my night shift.
If you have a mis-fire, get it to a Dealer ASAP.
I have no mis-fire, but they keep asking if I have just in case. Reason for the mis-fire urgency, is it will screw up your Cat.
If your MIL is coming on, then going off soon after that is also a fault. The MIL should stay on for a minimum of 4 engine restarts from the last detected error, that is if its a constant light. Ifs its flashing, stop there and then and contact Dealer immediately.
Constant MIL = transiant issue that needs to be investigated in a relatively short time frame e.g. within 24hrs.
Flashing MIL = Oh Sh!t, somethings wrong and is in danger of causing perminant damage, Stop where you are !!
I have no mis-fire, but they keep asking if I have just in case. Reason for the mis-fire urgency, is it will screw up your Cat.
If your MIL is coming on, then going off soon after that is also a fault. The MIL should stay on for a minimum of 4 engine restarts from the last detected error, that is if its a constant light. Ifs its flashing, stop there and then and contact Dealer immediately.
Constant MIL = transiant issue that needs to be investigated in a relatively short time frame e.g. within 24hrs.
Flashing MIL = Oh Sh!t, somethings wrong and is in danger of causing perminant damage, Stop where you are !!
Did tonight the 5 times 8200 (red light on) then let roll till 750. The people of the street are so happy that 10 times are not necessary.....
But it did not change anything. Mil light stay on and is basically on now for one month (car only driven during WE.) When I called the dealer He asked for loss of power?? - No!! - Then Ok come when you want.
BTW the hesitancy of the idle speed is no more there for a few days. But when hot it seems to me the idle speed is quite low , around 700 rpm. While starting it jumps to 1050 - 1100 then stabilize around 850-900, which seems correct to me.
Also whilehot and waitig at the light and reving once to 3000, the idle goes down to 600 before to raise again .Is this correct?
Car is a new 111R with 5800 miles on te clock.
Thanks
But it did not change anything. Mil light stay on and is basically on now for one month (car only driven during WE.) When I called the dealer He asked for loss of power?? - No!! - Then Ok come when you want.
BTW the hesitancy of the idle speed is no more there for a few days. But when hot it seems to me the idle speed is quite low , around 700 rpm. While starting it jumps to 1050 - 1100 then stabilize around 850-900, which seems correct to me.
Also whilehot and waitig at the light and reving once to 3000, the idle goes down to 600 before to raise again .Is this correct?
Car is a new 111R with 5800 miles on te clock.
Thanks
I don't know if it works on a lotus, but you can try to reset the computer in your car, just take the -(earth-clamp) cable from your battery! wait about 30sec(no power on the car at all that way) than without uncertainty put the earth-clamp back on the battery! in 1 time...then tie it fast and see if that helps! the car could be oké again!
good luck
GTRene
good luck
GTRene
rixge said:
My 111R stalls now and then when fully warmed up, reversing with a few revs, re starts and carries on as normal.....
Find out from a Dealer which version of ECU Software you are running, there was a patch supplied by Lotus to prevent a similar problem to that. If you already have it, then no idea.
bher said:
Did tonight the 5 times 8200 (red light on) then let roll till 750. The people of the street are so happy that 10 times are not necessary.....
But it did not change anything. Mil light stay on and is basically on now for one month (car only driven during WE.) When I called the dealer He asked for loss of power?? - No!! - Then Ok come when you want.
BTW the hesitancy of the idle speed is no more there for a few days. But when hot it seems to me the idle speed is quite low , around 700 rpm. While starting it jumps to 1050 - 1100 then stabilize around 850-900, which seems correct to me.
Also whilehot and waitig at the light and reving once to 3000, the idle goes down to 600 before to raise again .Is this correct?
Car is a new 111R with 5800 miles on te clock.
Thanks
You need to get the reason why the MIL came on reset before doing this. Mine came on this evening, just before I was going to do it late tonight. Dealer has now said it needs to go back, be reset and then the 2nd Gear 8500rpm blast happen
They should be able to plug into the OBD port and tell you what is wrong with the car. Mil light illumination shored have stored a DTC error code.
NEVER heard of reving an engine to it's limiter and then coasting down to evaluate engine friction.
If the friction in the engine is sufficiently high to be measured by a test lije that you might as well tear the engine out as it would be shot!
Fluctuating idle 9/10 are usually the following. Idle control Valve, Lambda sensor or coolant temp sensor.
Does it do it once the engine is hot or only when it is cold? Also how does the car behave when under high load, do you get the misfire hunting etc then?
NEVER heard of reving an engine to it's limiter and then coasting down to evaluate engine friction.
If the friction in the engine is sufficiently high to be measured by a test lije that you might as well tear the engine out as it would be shot!
Fluctuating idle 9/10 are usually the following. Idle control Valve, Lambda sensor or coolant temp sensor.
Does it do it once the engine is hot or only when it is cold? Also how does the car behave when under high load, do you get the misfire hunting etc then?
Well the fun bit is that the Lotus dealer did the MIL reset and then the red line and coast bit.
Car does now seem better at moderate to high revs, but now its worse at the lower revs. Its stalled twice, whilst just sitting there and is hunting between 800-1000rpm when sitting there too.
Now have to do another ECU relearn, which involves starting the engine from cold and then leaving for 20-30mins. Strange aint it.
Still not convinced, but Lotus HQ assure the dealer this needs to be done. The error code being taken from the ECU indicates a mis-fire, but I havnt felt/detected one yet. So here's hoping this solves it once and for all
Car does now seem better at moderate to high revs, but now its worse at the lower revs. Its stalled twice, whilst just sitting there and is hunting between 800-1000rpm when sitting there too.
Now have to do another ECU relearn, which involves starting the engine from cold and then leaving for 20-30mins. Strange aint it.
Still not convinced, but Lotus HQ assure the dealer this needs to be done. The error code being taken from the ECU indicates a mis-fire, but I havnt felt/detected one yet. So here's hoping this solves it once and for all
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