Need A Specific Hinge
Discussion
Building a shed worktop out of OSB. It'll be around 80cm deep, and the rear 30cm will be fixed with the front 50cm being hinged, so it can be dropped and lie vertically.
But I'd also like it to be raisable to vertical, so we can access storage underneath the rear fixed section.
Is there a hinge that will enable the top to go through 180° from vertical to vertical, but when at 90° (horizontal) there's no gap between the two sections?
ETA: Not barrel hinges, because I don't think they'll be strong enough.
But I'd also like it to be raisable to vertical, so we can access storage underneath the rear fixed section.
Is there a hinge that will enable the top to go through 180° from vertical to vertical, but when at 90° (horizontal) there's no gap between the two sections?
ETA: Not barrel hinges, because I don't think they'll be strong enough.
Edited by Doofus on Tuesday 6th October 20:29
Two way hinge set flush to the top surface? Similar to https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/two-way-hinge-...
There's also two way piano versions but not sure if they'd work.
There's also two way piano versions but not sure if they'd work.
JoshSm said:
Two way hinge set flush to the top surface? Similar to https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/two-way-hinge-...
There's also two way piano versions but not sure if they'd work.
I'm not sure that going into the edge of the OSB will be strong enough. I think I need to mount on the top surface or the bottom.There's also two way piano versions but not sure if they'd work.
The other option is just have two slightly different hinge points and two hinges and a strip of the worktop in between to join them? Opens up many more options.
If done that way you could (for example) have a piano hinge top and bottom at slightly different positions, set so they're flush to the surface, using one to go up and one to go down.
It's the double hinging that makes it difficult so just find a slightly different solution to achieve that from two regular ones.
If done that way you could (for example) have a piano hinge top and bottom at slightly different positions, set so they're flush to the surface, using one to go up and one to go down.
It's the double hinging that makes it difficult so just find a slightly different solution to achieve that from two regular ones.
JoshSm said:
The other option is just have two slightly different hinge points and two hinges and a strip of the worktop in between to join them? Opens up many more options.
If done that way you could (for example) have a piano hinge top and bottom at slightly different positions, set so they're flush to the surface, using one to go up and one to go down.
It's the double hinging that makes it difficult so just find a slightly different solution to achieve that from two regular ones.
I thought about that, butthen I also need supports beneath to stop it flopping when in horizontal mode, and thise will get in the way when I need it to tdrop.If done that way you could (for example) have a piano hinge top and bottom at slightly different positions, set so they're flush to the surface, using one to go up and one to go down.
It's the double hinging that makes it difficult so just find a slightly different solution to achieve that from two regular ones.
I'm now considering mounting the hinge using slots rather than holes, so I can pull it forward by 18mm for folding upwards.
I don't actually need it to fold both ways, but now I've decided I want it to, I'm determined to find a solution that, inevitably, I'll never exploit once completed.
I'm thinking bar / saloon door type hinge?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-satin-stainless...
Set the hinge so that the fixed part of the hinge is mounted ontop of the fixed rear section of the countertop, and the moving part of the hinge is mounted underneath the moving part of the countertop. Add a strip of wood under the moving section of the countertop and above the moving section of the hinge so that the middle section is hanging straight down when the countertop is in the horizontal position.
The more weight you put on the countertop, this pushes the countertop harder against the fixed portion. I am sure you will find a way to "de-activate" the springs inside the hinge.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-satin-stainless...
Set the hinge so that the fixed part of the hinge is mounted ontop of the fixed rear section of the countertop, and the moving part of the hinge is mounted underneath the moving part of the countertop. Add a strip of wood under the moving section of the countertop and above the moving section of the hinge so that the middle section is hanging straight down when the countertop is in the horizontal position.
The more weight you put on the countertop, this pushes the countertop harder against the fixed portion. I am sure you will find a way to "de-activate" the springs inside the hinge.
biggiles said:
Why use a hinge at all? Unless it's a really heavy worktop (and OSB isn't) then just rest it on supports? You can then prop it vertically if needed.
PS OSB is useful stuff, but I think as a worktop surface it might be a bit too uneven?
I use OSB in the garage and thenshed because it takes a lot of beating, and is easily replaced. I've never found it uneven.PS OSB is useful stuff, but I think as a worktop surface it might be a bit too uneven?
Peanut Gallery said:
I can buy these without the spring. 
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