Very low retaining wall. What to use?
Discussion
I’d like to build a ~1ft high retaining wall in my garden. Currently, the very edge of the lawn slopes away, due to the natural topography of the land, so all I need to do is shore up the edge and level it off, to create a nice flat lawn.
I was thinking of using wooden posts and gravel boards, but given how low the wall is, I wonder if anyone else had any ideas for how to do this cheaply and quickly? I’d ideally like to minimise any digging or concrete, and I’m not fussed about appearance at all as the face of the will be completely hidden. I have seen hammer-in edging strips, but I’m not sure if these would be quite strong enough for an 1ft drop - six inches, maybe.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I was thinking of using wooden posts and gravel boards, but given how low the wall is, I wonder if anyone else had any ideas for how to do this cheaply and quickly? I’d ideally like to minimise any digging or concrete, and I’m not fussed about appearance at all as the face of the will be completely hidden. I have seen hammer-in edging strips, but I’m not sure if these would be quite strong enough for an 1ft drop - six inches, maybe.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I know you say no digging but I think it's unavoidable for a long term solution. A paving slab laid (almost) vertically bedded in concrete will work. Not pretty but consistent and effective. (we use them for <600mm at work)
Eg
https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/features/flag_...
Eg
https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/features/flag_...
What is going to be on the reverse side, away from the lawn? Flower bed?
Whatever you use as edging needs to be set at the correct height to allow grass trimming and supported to be stable long term.
You would need good support for a 1' retainer, either set in concrete as above or plenty of posts sunk deep enough.
I have used cut paving slabs for edging but onlysimple edging and not to raise the level. Set in a simple concrete mix. 20 years and still good. A bit more work to do but done once. Gravel path one side and flower bed the other side.
Narrow trench hand dug ( the hardest bit) Mixer to do the concrete. Slab offcuts as much as possible available then remainder cut with an angle grinder with a good cutting disc and leaving the good slab edge for the top to match offcuts. (Second hardest job). Edging was about 20' long. Trench dug, slabs cut ready, concrete mixed and slabs set.
Took my time, day1 prep, trench, slabs cutting. Day2 picked up mixer, mixing concrete and setting slabs. Clearing up and returning mixer.
Could have pushed to do it in 1 day but no time deadline so easier and relaxed. Solo job but ok.
Mrs supplied coffee, biscuits and "advice" . Coffee and biscuits were good....🤫
Whatever you use as edging needs to be set at the correct height to allow grass trimming and supported to be stable long term.
You would need good support for a 1' retainer, either set in concrete as above or plenty of posts sunk deep enough.
I have used cut paving slabs for edging but onlysimple edging and not to raise the level. Set in a simple concrete mix. 20 years and still good. A bit more work to do but done once. Gravel path one side and flower bed the other side.
Narrow trench hand dug ( the hardest bit) Mixer to do the concrete. Slab offcuts as much as possible available then remainder cut with an angle grinder with a good cutting disc and leaving the good slab edge for the top to match offcuts. (Second hardest job). Edging was about 20' long. Trench dug, slabs cut ready, concrete mixed and slabs set.
Took my time, day1 prep, trench, slabs cutting. Day2 picked up mixer, mixing concrete and setting slabs. Clearing up and returning mixer.
Could have pushed to do it in 1 day but no time deadline so easier and relaxed. Solo job but ok.
Mrs supplied coffee, biscuits and "advice" . Coffee and biscuits were good....🤫
Don't use wood, it just won't last.
What does work fine as a quick and easy solution is cutting down some concrete slotted fence posts and using concrete gravel boards dropped in. Cut the fence posts into 2 or 3 pieces (depends how deep you need to set them to resist tipping under load) set the bottom into postcrete, set the top to the desired height, then add the boards.
It's not quite a full scale retaining wall but it's strong enough to work without moving, and it won't rot out.
What does work fine as a quick and easy solution is cutting down some concrete slotted fence posts and using concrete gravel boards dropped in. Cut the fence posts into 2 or 3 pieces (depends how deep you need to set them to resist tipping under load) set the bottom into postcrete, set the top to the desired height, then add the boards.
It's not quite a full scale retaining wall but it's strong enough to work without moving, and it won't rot out.
JoshSm said:
Don't use wood, it just won't last.
What does work fine as a quick and easy solution is cutting down some concrete slotted fence posts and using concrete gravel boards dropped in. Cut the fence posts into 2 or 3 pieces (depends how deep you need to set them to resist tipping under load) set the bottom into postcrete, set the top to the desired height, then add the boards.
It's not quite a full scale retaining wall but it's strong enough to work without moving, and it won't rot out.
Wood can last long enough for some people to accept it. I think the stuff I've had to dig out was down 18 years.What does work fine as a quick and easy solution is cutting down some concrete slotted fence posts and using concrete gravel boards dropped in. Cut the fence posts into 2 or 3 pieces (depends how deep you need to set them to resist tipping under load) set the bottom into postcrete, set the top to the desired height, then add the boards.
It's not quite a full scale retaining wall but it's strong enough to work without moving, and it won't rot out.
Gabions might be an answer?
A dry stone wall can work, perhaps better than anything involving cement ais it just moves a bit rather than joints failing?
Depends if the stone is 'on hand' maybe?
And what the ground is like under.
Rusty Old-Banger said:
I know you say no digging but I think it's unavoidable for a long term solution. A paving slab laid (almost) vertically bedded in concrete will work. Not pretty but consistent and effective. (we use them for <600mm at work)
Eg
https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/features/flag_...
I did a short section like this, very very easyEg
https://www.pavingexpert.com/images/features/flag_...
Mattock to dig a shallow trench, some old slabs of the correct size so no cutting, slabs in trench leaning on dirt angled slightly from upright. Fill trench and any voids with readymix. Dead solid.
zalrak said:
Check the OP username. I reckon it will be fine.
Nah, nothing to do with wood preservation. I’m just really fat. 
Thanks all for the input — slabs could definitely be an option. I don’t mind using a bit of elbow grease and concrete, i just didn’t want to do it if there was an easier option I’d missed.
There is a retain wall (loosest possible term) about waist height made of up ended concrete slabs which has been there 50+ years and is held up with nothing more than hope and prayers.
Literally just stood on end, very small angle into the face, and the soil seems to do most of the securing. I wouldn't drive a car across it, but it's been there a long time and is fine to walk across. No concrete, nothing at all anchoring it into the ground, just weight. Probably helps that the soil under the wall is very sandy and so the water drains away. If you have clay underneath and the soil gets wet it might not work so well.
Literally just stood on end, very small angle into the face, and the soil seems to do most of the securing. I wouldn't drive a car across it, but it's been there a long time and is fine to walk across. No concrete, nothing at all anchoring it into the ground, just weight. Probably helps that the soil under the wall is very sandy and so the water drains away. If you have clay underneath and the soil gets wet it might not work so well.
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