HELP !!! Fuel pump = breakdown
Discussion
Hi
I hadnt used the S2 for a week or so and so went out for a blast, fine until it died shortly after filling up the tank..... luckily i was within walking distance of home. I got assistance of the pushing variety to get me back home.
So now i have a dead fuel pump..... no clicking from it at all. I have checked the 25amp fuse which seems ok and the yellow relay is still clicking (once when ign switched on and then again about 4 seconds later).
Should I assume this is all ok and suspect the fuel pump is knackered ? or is the relay misbehaving ? whats my next move ?
Ive searched historic threads but i'm still not sure.
Thanks again
Giles
I hadnt used the S2 for a week or so and so went out for a blast, fine until it died shortly after filling up the tank..... luckily i was within walking distance of home. I got assistance of the pushing variety to get me back home.
So now i have a dead fuel pump..... no clicking from it at all. I have checked the 25amp fuse which seems ok and the yellow relay is still clicking (once when ign switched on and then again about 4 seconds later).
Should I assume this is all ok and suspect the fuel pump is knackered ? or is the relay misbehaving ? whats my next move ?
Ive searched historic threads but i'm still not sure.
Thanks again
Giles
S2 Giles said:
So now i have a dead fuel pump..... no clicking from it at all. I have checked the 25amp fuse which seems ok and the yellow relay is still clicking
Should be the pink relay for the fuel pump. They are far more unreliable than the pumps.
Pull the pink relay and see if you are getting any volts from it and that none of the pins are loose. Usually the relay inside suffers from poor solder joints to the PCB. No big job to pull the cover of the relay and resolder everything.
Not to worry you Silverback, but ...
I had the same symptoms which were fixed by replacing the relay, then came back and were fixed by replacing a badly frayed wire at the connection to the pump, then came back and fixed by cleaning up and recrimping the relay socket, then came back and were finally fixed for good by removing the pile-o-rust (tm) inertia cut-out switch. All the problems I fixed were genuine problems that were contributing to the general reliability, perhaps provoked by me disturbing things while I was tracking down the original problem. Amazing how things that couldn't possibly have worked will be fine until you take a good look at them.
I had the same symptoms which were fixed by replacing the relay, then came back and were fixed by replacing a badly frayed wire at the connection to the pump, then came back and fixed by cleaning up and recrimping the relay socket, then came back and were finally fixed for good by removing the pile-o-rust (tm) inertia cut-out switch. All the problems I fixed were genuine problems that were contributing to the general reliability, perhaps provoked by me disturbing things while I was tracking down the original problem. Amazing how things that couldn't possibly have worked will be fine until you take a good look at them.
top tip....On the S1 anyway....Cable tie in your fuel relay. On my old S1, because it constanly worked loose (and the old girl would fuel starve) the terminals would arc out and the plastic housing melted and it had to be rewired. As the fuse carrier with the relays was designed for Ford to be horizontal and they are set vertically on the S1 the first job I did on my 'new' one was the cable tie job on each relay. Another weakness is the fuse box can get wet from leakage aroung the near side bonnet catch which also leads to arcing,,
yellow?? Obviously the person fitting the relays is as colour blind as the one making the wiring looms
Anyroadup you can pull the cover on the fuelpump relay and plug it back in if no connections are loose or cracked. Ign on and manually close the relay. If pump runs you probably have an ignition pulse sense missing. If it doesnt run you have a supply failure.
Ok so the saga continues. I bought a new fuel pump relay (yellow) from Ford for just £10. Fitted the item & it clicked a bit but eventually worked, then it didnt & then it did again.
Now its settled and seems to be working fine......BUT ive put the old relay back in and that now works fine too !!!!! help !!!!!!!
I have either reset the system somewhere by plugging in the new relay, or i have another problem elsewhere.
Can anyone help....what should i do ?
Now its settled and seems to be working fine......BUT ive put the old relay back in and that now works fine too !!!!! help !!!!!!!
I have either reset the system somewhere by plugging in the new relay, or i have another problem elsewhere.
Can anyone help....what should i do ?
Have you checked the connector just prior to the fuel pump - look under the car near to the rear nearside wheel) it is a white multiplug connector.
If the contact or plug has broken down it will present those symptoms, and would explain the fact sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.
If the contact or plug has broken down it will present those symptoms, and would explain the fact sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.
You can keep trying bits and pieces, but I know how frustrating it can be to have a car that keeps letting you down. If the problem is proving tricky then I suggest you wire up a seperate fused supply from the battery to the pump. Bring a wire back from the pump and connect a bulb inside the car to it so you can see when the original supply drops out. And just drive around as normal. When it does drop out, be ready with the multimeter to work out where the power is getting lost. I made up a 'Y' lead to let me plug the original relay in one socket and then probe the other to see whether the relay coil was still being energised and whether there was any voltage drop across the contacts, working out from there. You could get away without this by back-probing the socket but it just made it easier. You need to be ready with a specific test because the problem is likely to come and go, but each time it comes back you can get that bit closer to pinning it down. It's a bit tedious, but very rewarding when you finally get it.
S2 Giles said:
Fitted the item & it clicked a bit but eventually worked, then it didnt & then it did again.
From the symptoms it sounds like a supply fault. If its clicking the fault is not on the pump side.
If the clicking is fairly quick I'd go for the supply to the relay. If the clicks were always several seconds apart check the ignition pulse feed from the coil.
Oh, and not forgetting the earth return for the relay....
Thanks so much for the responses. I dont know what i'd do without this forum but I am learning alot and i'm not what i'd call a novice.
Tonight I took her out with the new relay in place.... in the pitch black lanes on a fast bend doing 70, i suddenly lost all my lights !!
I traced this back to the fuse holder & a piece of exposed wire that was shorting out against the ECU cover & blowing the headlight fuse.
Fixed that problem. However the fuel pump is now behaving itself, no matter how many times i switch her off & on or leave her running.
Ive just lost confidence now, i'm waiting for her to do it again so i can have another go at tracing the problem.
Anyway, thanks again for the comments
Tonight I took her out with the new relay in place.... in the pitch black lanes on a fast bend doing 70, i suddenly lost all my lights !!
I traced this back to the fuse holder & a piece of exposed wire that was shorting out against the ECU cover & blowing the headlight fuse.
Fixed that problem. However the fuel pump is now behaving itself, no matter how many times i switch her off & on or leave her running.
Ive just lost confidence now, i'm waiting for her to do it again so i can have another go at tracing the problem.
Anyway, thanks again for the comments
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