Brakes still feel a bit meh
Brakes still feel a bit meh
Author
Discussion

alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
I have replaced the discs and pads on my GSXR1000 K7 and also replaced the brake fluid. The lever was never that strong before but I thought after this work it would be quite sharp but...still the same. I have the lever adjustment at the most extreme but i'm almost pulling the lever over halfway before any real braking happens. Is this a master cylinder issue?

Stevemr

923 posts

185 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Bleeding issue I would think.

trickywoo

14,134 posts

259 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
What pads and are they bedded in?

alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Used EBC discs and pads and bedded in properly. The brakes before were not brilliant. If its bleeding I would think there must have been air in the system prior to the brake fluid change as the lever feels pretty much the same.

TGCOTF-dewey

7,852 posts

84 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Does your other half have a sex toy and do they use it much?

https://youtube.com/shorts/sNEMCozNuvE?is=jk2q4rbF...

alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Does your other half have a sex toy and do they use it much?

https://youtube.com/shorts/sNEMCozNuvE?is=jk2q4rbF...
Thanks, great contribution.

ssray

1,347 posts

254 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Tie the brake lever back overnight, it allows tiny bubbles to escape

Crudeoink

1,382 posts

88 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
ssray said:
Tie the brake lever back overnight, it allows tiny bubbles to escape
I've had some success with this, it's not night and day but it does help. That said I've never been in the position of having lots of air in the system when I've used this method. Things I've found to help:
If the bike has ABS, getting it to engage helps get air out the pump. Pushing the pistons all the way back in and rotating the caliper about a few times to help bubbles make their way towards the bleed nipple, gentle vibration on the calipers and lines to help bubbles make their way to the master cylinder (I used my orbital sander and placed the body of the sander on the calipers to help move some bubbles!)

RossF1984

96 posts

107 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Same issue on my L3 GSXR600. Using a cable tie to hold the lever overnight as previously suggested did make a big difference however.

I was told that this was a "GSXR Thing"?

MK3 Dan

380 posts

174 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
There was a recall on master cylinders I think so ensure that has been done?

Personally I would go for an aftermarket master cylinder, I always go Brembo, and find these make the biggest difference.

the cueball

1,890 posts

84 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
K7 has a bleed nipple at the master cylinder?

Do that first... pump the brakes, hold the lever and crack open the bleed.

Then left caliper and right last.

What about your brake lines?? OE rubber? new rubber? braided s/s?? another thing to look at.

Further to that, when I'm getting new discs and pads I usually rebuild the calipers and master cylinder.. seals may be gone/failing on either or both of them.

at the very least, give the calipers a really good clean and make sure all the pots are working correctly - tokico 4 pots are usually pretty good.


alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
I did bleed the master cylinder and calipers and have also tried cable tying the lever back overnight. The lever felt great after this when pulled prior to moving, but as soon as I needed to apply the brake again, it was the same as before.

Marquezs Stabilisers

2,492 posts

90 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
How do the pistons move around in the caliper? How do the pads slide on the pins?

alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
Everything moved freely

s p a c e m a n

12,046 posts

177 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
If you pump the lever does it get harder or just stay the same no matter how many times you do it?

Biker's Nemesis

41,406 posts

237 months

Wednesday 26th August
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A friend had to have his K6 M/C replaced due to a recall. It had been off the road for years.

This wasn't a recent recall either, if you've done all the obvious I'd check to see if there is a recall on the K7.

_Rodders_

3,940 posts

48 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
I'd chuck a different set of pads in if I was certain there was no air in the system before changing the MC

trickywoo

14,134 posts

259 months

Wednesday 26th August
quotequote all
_Rodders_ said:
I'd chuck a different set of pads in if I was certain there was no air in the system before changing the MC
I’d say that was worth a go to. I changed pads once and got that heart in your mouth feeling every time I grabbed the lever. It felt for a second that they weren’t working. I gave it a while but they never bedded in. I put a different set in and all was well again. No idea what happened as they were factory sealed SBS sintered.

alan36

Original Poster:

491 posts

213 months

Thursday 27th August
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Think I will try the SBS ones then.

IanUAE

3,070 posts

193 months

Thursday 27th August
quotequote all
Do you have original rubber brake lines? If so they could be expanding when you apply the brakes.

As you have bought new pads and discs, a set on new good quality braided brake lines would complete the brake refresh.