Northern Italy recommendations
Northern Italy recommendations
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Michael_B

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1,784 posts

127 months

Tuesday
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Buongiorno,

During our brief but glorious trip to Milan, we discovered the following two eateries, both of which we will be returning to in the not too distant future :


https://amarcordcucinaebottega.it/menu-e-carta-dei...

For starters we shared the stewed baby octopus, smoked potatoes, and black olives, plus the cold tomato soup with Cantabrian anchovies and buffalo mozzarella. Main course for Mrs B was risotto with green tomatoes, lemon, smoked burrata, and black garlic, and I took the basil tagliatelle with cherry tomatoes, red shrimp, and olives.

Everything was excellent, from the perfectly cooked home-made pasta, tangy olives, fresh vegetables and well seasoned dressings. The standout dish for me was the baby octopus of which I could have quite happily eaten two as a main course.

Vercelli is a charming Italian town between Milan and Turin, with numerous Renaissance churches and towers, plus an excellent art museum based around the collection of a 19th local lawyer. The restaurant is on the arcaded main square. Google rates it at 4.9/5 for 117 reviews, which it thoroughly deserves. We paid €90 in total, including a glass of nebbiolo each with the main course.



https://locandalaclusaz.com/ristorante

Recommended by my neighbour, who was born in Martigny just to the north of the Grand St Bernard pass, this restaurant/hotel just in Italy to the south of the summit, offers basic but decent rooms, and a fantastic restaurant. Five course (plus lots of amuses-bouche, breads, etc.) tasting menu was €80 each, one bottle of decent red was €45.

The highlights were the smoked trout salad starter, the risotto (in tomato water and beurre blanc), and a slice of duck breast (served with asparagus) which was the most tender, juicy and well-seasoned I've eaten in years. But everything else was also of exceptional quality, from the home-made bread to the little vol-au-vent cases of pickled courgette mixed with caviare, green pea mousse, etc. Discreet and friendly service, all served over three hours in a stone-vaulted dining room with plenty of space between the tables.

I hear that their autumn 'hunting' menu is quite renowned, so we are booking a weekend there in October, to see what they can do with venison and seasonal vegetables/sauces. If you are in the area, go there before the Michelin guide discovers it and prices double/triple!