Which wire crimper for a flag connector?
Discussion
The trouble with most of the crimp tools that I've seen is that the body of the connector would be fouling the jaws of the tool and either get damaged, or prevent them from crimping properly. There are plenty on Amazon and the like, though: https://amzn.eu/d/015AY9gC
I don't have one, I gently crimp the wire section with side cutters and then I think I used a normal crimp tool for the insulation retainer as that'll go on. It's a while since I've done one, there aren't many on my car.
Beware of using solder in certain areas, whether directly in the terminal, or on the end of a flying lead. If it's in a hot area of the engine bay, for example, the heat can affect the joint - I've spent a while tracing a charging fault to a solder joint buried inside my wiring loom that was breaking down after a lot of hot/cold cycles. You can also find that the solder wicks up inside the insulation, leaving the potential for the wire to crack at the end of the rigid section where it's hidden by insulation.
I don't have one, I gently crimp the wire section with side cutters and then I think I used a normal crimp tool for the insulation retainer as that'll go on. It's a while since I've done one, there aren't many on my car.
Beware of using solder in certain areas, whether directly in the terminal, or on the end of a flying lead. If it's in a hot area of the engine bay, for example, the heat can affect the joint - I've spent a while tracing a charging fault to a solder joint buried inside my wiring loom that was breaking down after a lot of hot/cold cycles. You can also find that the solder wicks up inside the insulation, leaving the potential for the wire to crack at the end of the rigid section where it's hidden by insulation.
Belle427 said:
Adding some solder after the crimp has been done is no bad idea.
Adding solder is only useful in demonstrating that the crimp hasn't actually been done. 
Some methods of connection you can take a belt and braces approach. Gluing and screwing wood, for one. Welding metal then adding seam sealant to prevent corrosion for another.
However, a correctly crimped electrical connection is gas-tight and forms a cold weld. If there is space for solder in the crimp, the crimp hasn't been done properly. You solder, or you crimp. Never both.
donkmeister said:
a correctly crimped electrical connection forms a cold weld.
A popular mis-stated fallacy I'm afraid, it does not cold weld, there is nothing like the pressure/vacuum required to cold weld in a normal electrical crimp.It is quite easy to prove this, just cut open a crimp lengthwise & prise open the crimp, the crimp comes off the wire, then tease the wire strands and they come apart, there is not the "molecular bond" of a cold weld in an electrical crimp.
I'll have to test that for myself when I get the chance, but of course we are talking about crimps made with decent ratchets - not the hand squeeze multi tool!
However, if you can find a document from a reputable organisation stating that adding solder to a crimp is a good idea I'd love to see it.
It does occur to me that there IS one way to improve a crimp with soldering equipment and materials; If you could apply and activate flux just before crimping then you will have cleaner metal. But, guaranteeing you have flushed out all the crud would be difficult so you'd probably end up with a joint that turns green over time.
However, if you can find a document from a reputable organisation stating that adding solder to a crimp is a good idea I'd love to see it.
It does occur to me that there IS one way to improve a crimp with soldering equipment and materials; If you could apply and activate flux just before crimping then you will have cleaner metal. But, guaranteeing you have flushed out all the crud would be difficult so you'd probably end up with a joint that turns green over time.
donkmeister said:
I'll have to test that for myself when I get the chance, but of course we are talking about crimps made with decent ratchets - not the hand squeeze multi tool!
However, if you can find a document from a reputable organisation stating that adding solder to a crimp is a good idea I'd love to see it.
It does occur to me that there IS one way to improve a crimp with soldering equipment and materials; If you could apply and activate flux just before crimping then you will have cleaner metal. But, guaranteeing you have flushed out all the crud would be difficult so you'd probably end up with a joint that turns green over time.
Don't forget that the whole "crimp & solder" debate started on this post to cover NOT having the correct crimp tool, so the suggestion was to bend over the tangs to catch the wire & solder to make sure it is a good electrical connection.However, if you can find a document from a reputable organisation stating that adding solder to a crimp is a good idea I'd love to see it.
It does occur to me that there IS one way to improve a crimp with soldering equipment and materials; If you could apply and activate flux just before crimping then you will have cleaner metal. But, guaranteeing you have flushed out all the crud would be difficult so you'd probably end up with a joint that turns green over time.
I don't think anyone has suggested that it is the gold standard or belt & braces method to end all electrical connections, just that it can have it's place.
I have never seen a solder connection go green, although I have seen many unprotected copper/brass crimp connections go green, make a poor connection and need cleaning, particularly in car multi-plugs, so not sure of the circumstances that you have seen them.
Just for context I am not saying crimp - bad, solder - good, just that both have their place & at times one may just be earier/quicker/better than the other & that is what makes the decision which way to go.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff