Thinking about purchasing a Z4 2003 / 2008
Discussion
Hi all,
Thinking of buying a Z4 run around. Aiming for a 2.5 or 3.0. Seeking advice etc. is the 2.5 under powered ? im aiming for reliablity if honest so which ever is the best. Read that the roof motor can sieze / needs to be moved, and that the sills rust so need to review all those typical areas. Do the chains stretch on these, and if so when roughly 100k ? Im 6ft, is the cabin cool with 6ft ?
All very early in my search, planning to review a few cars so would be grateful for any advice, common issues to look for, or service items that need to be replaced i.e. that dis / vanos valve ?
simon
Thinking of buying a Z4 run around. Aiming for a 2.5 or 3.0. Seeking advice etc. is the 2.5 under powered ? im aiming for reliablity if honest so which ever is the best. Read that the roof motor can sieze / needs to be moved, and that the sills rust so need to review all those typical areas. Do the chains stretch on these, and if so when roughly 100k ? Im 6ft, is the cabin cool with 6ft ?
All very early in my search, planning to review a few cars so would be grateful for any advice, common issues to look for, or service items that need to be replaced i.e. that dis / vanos valve ?
simon
sbk1972 said:
Hi all,
Thinking of buying a Z4 run around. Aiming for a 2.5 or 3.0. Seeking advice etc. is the 2.5 under powered ? im aiming for reliablity if honest so which ever is the best. Read that the roof motor can sieze / needs to be moved, and that the sills rust so need to review all those typical areas. Do the chains stretch on these, and if so when roughly 100k ? Im 6ft, is the cabin cool with 6ft ?
All very early in my search, planning to review a few cars so would be grateful for any advice, common issues to look for, or service items that need to be replaced i.e. that dis / vanos valve ?
simon
The 3.0 is the one to have, but then I am biased as that is what I have - a 2004 version.Thinking of buying a Z4 run around. Aiming for a 2.5 or 3.0. Seeking advice etc. is the 2.5 under powered ? im aiming for reliablity if honest so which ever is the best. Read that the roof motor can sieze / needs to be moved, and that the sills rust so need to review all those typical areas. Do the chains stretch on these, and if so when roughly 100k ? Im 6ft, is the cabin cool with 6ft ?
All very early in my search, planning to review a few cars so would be grateful for any advice, common issues to look for, or service items that need to be replaced i.e. that dis / vanos valve ?
simon
The roof motor location is definitely a problem and needs moving, don't buy one that hasn't been moved. They also leak from the windscreen scuttle and the door seals failing. I am trying to track my leak down as the underside of the carpet was sopping wet after two years stored in a dry garage.
I'm not sure about chain stretch, mine is only at 88,000 miles. Fingers crossed...
I'm 6' 2" and fit just fine.
The PH buying guide on the Z4 M covers most other things: http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guid...
Thanks guys.
Scuttle leaks ? Is this from the window screen itself, or over filled drains around the wipers ? jesus I hate water leaks :-)
I read that the motor is quite doable to move, Im not shy with the spanners so will do this myself if needs be. Also, I dont mind a no working roof if it lowers the price as I was told that the roof are easy to use manually ? True ?
Gearbox wise Im leaning more towards the auto but dont mind a manual. Arethe clutches hydrolic ? Are the auto reliable ?
Simon
Scuttle leaks ? Is this from the window screen itself, or over filled drains around the wipers ? jesus I hate water leaks :-)
I read that the motor is quite doable to move, Im not shy with the spanners so will do this myself if needs be. Also, I dont mind a no working roof if it lowers the price as I was told that the roof are easy to use manually ? True ?
Gearbox wise Im leaning more towards the auto but dont mind a manual. Arethe clutches hydrolic ? Are the auto reliable ?
Simon
sbk1972 said:
Thanks guys.
Scuttle leaks ? Is this from the window screen itself, or over filled drains around the wipers ? jesus I hate water leaks :-)
Blocked drains from the scuttlesScuttle leaks ? Is this from the window screen itself, or over filled drains around the wipers ? jesus I hate water leaks :-)
sbk1972 said:
I read that the motor is quite doable to move, Im not shy with the spanners so will do this myself if needs be. Also, I dont mind a no working roof if it lowers the price as I was told that the roof are easy to use manually ? True ?
Everything I've seen on the roof motor has said take it to BRM in Hampshire and get them to do it. They are generally quite spannerable though.I wouldn't touch an old BMW convertible where the electrical roof didn't work. There are a lot to go wrong, and not many spares even on ebay and it is probably indicative of a car that hasn't had any love shown. Why take on someone else's problem?
All the 6 cyl models are quite reliable tbh.
Early ones will be the M54 engine, the later ones are the N52. The latter are more powerful (and iirc a lighter block).
Early (pre-facelift) models can suffer from the 'sticky' steering, I believe this was sorted on the facelift.
Yes, if the motor doesn't work, you can raise/lower the roof manually (currently my issue!). Roof motor replacement is possible DIY (see various youtube videos), access is what makes it tricky rather than the job itself actually being particularly complex.
Look out for spec - heated seats is a must imo. Xenons are desirable.
Autos will be ZF 5HP on the early models and 6HP on the later They claimed by BMW to be sealed for life but ZF themselves recommend fluid changes (sorry, can't remember the interval). Manual is decent enough, many (including me) replace the knob for the shorter/heavier ZHP version which really does make a difference. Some also remove the clutch delay valve (CDV).
Early ones will be the M54 engine, the later ones are the N52. The latter are more powerful (and iirc a lighter block).
Early (pre-facelift) models can suffer from the 'sticky' steering, I believe this was sorted on the facelift.
Yes, if the motor doesn't work, you can raise/lower the roof manually (currently my issue!). Roof motor replacement is possible DIY (see various youtube videos), access is what makes it tricky rather than the job itself actually being particularly complex.
Look out for spec - heated seats is a must imo. Xenons are desirable.
Autos will be ZF 5HP on the early models and 6HP on the later They claimed by BMW to be sealed for life but ZF themselves recommend fluid changes (sorry, can't remember the interval). Manual is decent enough, many (including me) replace the knob for the shorter/heavier ZHP version which really does make a difference. Some also remove the clutch delay valve (CDV).
The pre facelift 2.2 is not to be discounted
Re the roof motors they sit in a void which can fill with water if the drain holes aren't clear
Frequently they don't need replacing just drying out
There's a number of people that can revive/replace/relocate dotted around the country which you can find on the Z4 forum
Most relocate the motors to the side of the boot where it's dry
The early cars are all SE and the seats are quite flat, you need a facelift car to get the sports seats which are a massive improvement imo
The later cars have a number of improvements including engine revisions and a different water pump ( which is a weakness on the earlier cars ) they also have bette sound deadening and insulation
The later 2.5Si has pretty much the same power as the earlier 3.0 but revs much more freely
Be aware that there's quite a power difference between a 2.5 and 2.5Si
Id probably avoid cars with Nav as they can drain batteries and it's pretty useless today
The only thing I'd say is avoid the 2.0 4cyl cars
Mechanically I'd say they are pretty bulletproof but I would check if the suspension has been refreshed as they can get tired
A key to improving drive ability is to remove the clutch delay valve, it transforms the gear change and remove the runflats
Re the roof motors they sit in a void which can fill with water if the drain holes aren't clear
Frequently they don't need replacing just drying out
There's a number of people that can revive/replace/relocate dotted around the country which you can find on the Z4 forum
Most relocate the motors to the side of the boot where it's dry
The early cars are all SE and the seats are quite flat, you need a facelift car to get the sports seats which are a massive improvement imo
The later cars have a number of improvements including engine revisions and a different water pump ( which is a weakness on the earlier cars ) they also have bette sound deadening and insulation
The later 2.5Si has pretty much the same power as the earlier 3.0 but revs much more freely
Be aware that there's quite a power difference between a 2.5 and 2.5Si
Id probably avoid cars with Nav as they can drain batteries and it's pretty useless today
The only thing I'd say is avoid the 2.0 4cyl cars
Mechanically I'd say they are pretty bulletproof but I would check if the suspension has been refreshed as they can get tired
A key to improving drive ability is to remove the clutch delay valve, it transforms the gear change and remove the runflats
As others have said I wouldn't bother with the 4 cylinder ones. A straight 6 is one of the Z4s unique features, and the 4s don't seem as robust as the bulletproof 6s either.
The pre-facelift 2.2, 2.5 and 3.0 litre all use the same engine, just in a different size, so running costs will be much the same. But if you plan longer Motorway trips the 3 litre is the only one that had a 6 speed gearbox.
Facelifts came as 2.5i, 2.5Si (and there is a big performance difference between those two) and 3.0Si. Facelifts all had a 6 speed box and came with SE or Sport trim. The latter all had the desirable M-Sport seats as standard which very few buyers seem to have selected from the options list on other models.
OE spec was a bit mean, although all the 3 litre cars had electric seat adjustment with driver's memory and headlamp washers - which usually just leak!
Rear parking sensors, heated seats, Xenons, cup-holders and cruise control were all options. Most owners want heated seats and preferably Xenons. Cruise isn't too difficult to retro-fit and cup-holders are easy
It's worth digging around a bit on a site like z4forum for some background and what to look for. You might even find a car advertised there!
As has been said the Clutch Delay Valve needs to go in the bin from any manual BMW.
The pre-facelift 2.2, 2.5 and 3.0 litre all use the same engine, just in a different size, so running costs will be much the same. But if you plan longer Motorway trips the 3 litre is the only one that had a 6 speed gearbox.
Facelifts came as 2.5i, 2.5Si (and there is a big performance difference between those two) and 3.0Si. Facelifts all had a 6 speed box and came with SE or Sport trim. The latter all had the desirable M-Sport seats as standard which very few buyers seem to have selected from the options list on other models.
OE spec was a bit mean, although all the 3 litre cars had electric seat adjustment with driver's memory and headlamp washers - which usually just leak!
Rear parking sensors, heated seats, Xenons, cup-holders and cruise control were all options. Most owners want heated seats and preferably Xenons. Cruise isn't too difficult to retro-fit and cup-holders are easy
It's worth digging around a bit on a site like z4forum for some background and what to look for. You might even find a car advertised there!
As has been said the Clutch Delay Valve needs to go in the bin from any manual BMW.
The cupholders are OK, probably worth having but I wouldn't go on a spirited drive with a hot coffee that's for sure.
Carver/DSP hi-fi is pretty good with the sub behind the seat, the standard audio is terrible, but if you plan on changing the head unit as I did for CarPlay etc then it's a bit more difficult if you have the better setup.
Heated seats I wouldn't be without.
The pop up/sat nav screen is a load of rubbish and ruins the look of the dashboard.
Common problems are the roof motors as mentioned, I relocated mine to the boot and also the door handle cables can stretch or snap which is a pain in the ass when you can't open the door. Xenons make a big difference too, although I stopped the washers working because the bumper covers pop off leaving a gap in the bumper.
I had a 2003 3.0 back in about 2005/6 and have a 2008 Z4M now as a fun car which takes me back to old school enjoyment you don't get from modern cars. I'd always go manual, not that the auto is bad but manual is all part of the fun.
I love them and I think they're a bit of a bargain.
Carver/DSP hi-fi is pretty good with the sub behind the seat, the standard audio is terrible, but if you plan on changing the head unit as I did for CarPlay etc then it's a bit more difficult if you have the better setup.
Heated seats I wouldn't be without.
The pop up/sat nav screen is a load of rubbish and ruins the look of the dashboard.
Common problems are the roof motors as mentioned, I relocated mine to the boot and also the door handle cables can stretch or snap which is a pain in the ass when you can't open the door. Xenons make a big difference too, although I stopped the washers working because the bumper covers pop off leaving a gap in the bumper.
I had a 2003 3.0 back in about 2005/6 and have a 2008 Z4M now as a fun car which takes me back to old school enjoyment you don't get from modern cars. I'd always go manual, not that the auto is bad but manual is all part of the fun.
I love them and I think they're a bit of a bargain.
I bought mine on history/mileage/condition
It doesn't have zenons, and I had no idea how comically bad the standard lights are until I had to drive cross country at night in torrential rain .. like driving blind, although they are decent on high beam
I've replaced the Standard bulbs with some high power Phillips halagen ones that are legal and they do improve it somewhat
Fortunately mine is a summer toy that I don't really drive in the dark
If it was an all year daily I'd say it would be a nightmare
It doesn't have zenons, and I had no idea how comically bad the standard lights are until I had to drive cross country at night in torrential rain .. like driving blind, although they are decent on high beam
I've replaced the Standard bulbs with some high power Phillips halagen ones that are legal and they do improve it somewhat
Fortunately mine is a summer toy that I don't really drive in the dark
If it was an all year daily I'd say it would be a nightmare
Si, Ive found myself a bit of a project car. Havent seen it yet, but been told the following.
2003, 60K, auto, 2.5. 3 owner. Part of an estate as the owner died. Been garage 5 years. No mot.
However, boot doesnt open from key or fob. Battery is obviously not good althought it drives on a starter pack. Been told it needs a new battery module. Roof is unconfirmed so assume it doesnt work.
Been off the road ofr 4/5 years, so will need a service, tyres etc.
Full service history up to 60K
Been reading about the boot, could be a vallay button in the glovebox that has switched off the rear boot, or could be the roof isnt closed properly meaning it would allow the boot to open. Read that there is no internal access so will need a lock smith to open it.
Battey module, not sure why it needs it but the previous owner before he died made notes it needs it.
Not much monely £1500.
Thoughts on the above ?
2003, 60K, auto, 2.5. 3 owner. Part of an estate as the owner died. Been garage 5 years. No mot.
However, boot doesnt open from key or fob. Battery is obviously not good althought it drives on a starter pack. Been told it needs a new battery module. Roof is unconfirmed so assume it doesnt work.
Been off the road ofr 4/5 years, so will need a service, tyres etc.
Full service history up to 60K
Been reading about the boot, could be a vallay button in the glovebox that has switched off the rear boot, or could be the roof isnt closed properly meaning it would allow the boot to open. Read that there is no internal access so will need a lock smith to open it.
Battey module, not sure why it needs it but the previous owner before he died made notes it needs it.
Not much monely £1500.
Thoughts on the above ?
sbk1972 said:
Si, Ive found myself a bit of a project car. Havent seen it yet, but been told the following.
2003, 60K, auto, 2.5. 3 owner. Part of an estate as the owner died. Been garage 5 years. No mot.
However, boot doesnt open from key or fob. Battery is obviously not good althought it drives on a starter pack. Been told it needs a new battery module. Roof is unconfirmed so assume it doesnt work.
Been off the road ofr 4/5 years, so will need a service, tyres etc.
Full service history up to 60K
Been reading about the boot, could be a vallay button in the glovebox that has switched off the rear boot, or could be the roof isnt closed properly meaning it would allow the boot to open. Read that there is no internal access so will need a lock smith to open it.
Battey module, not sure why it needs it but the previous owner before he died made notes it needs it.
Not much monely £1500.
Thoughts on the above ?
Sounds alright. 60k is nothing for an M54 and five speed auto. I doubt the battery module is faulty but they're buttons secondhand. Chances are the car is still on the original battery. 2003, 60K, auto, 2.5. 3 owner. Part of an estate as the owner died. Been garage 5 years. No mot.
However, boot doesnt open from key or fob. Battery is obviously not good althought it drives on a starter pack. Been told it needs a new battery module. Roof is unconfirmed so assume it doesnt work.
Been off the road ofr 4/5 years, so will need a service, tyres etc.
Full service history up to 60K
Been reading about the boot, could be a vallay button in the glovebox that has switched off the rear boot, or could be the roof isnt closed properly meaning it would allow the boot to open. Read that there is no internal access so will need a lock smith to open it.
Battey module, not sure why it needs it but the previous owner before he died made notes it needs it.
Not much monely £1500.
Thoughts on the above ?
After five years the battery in the key will need charging.
If it's always been garaged I'd be surprised if the roof pump is waterlogged - they're an absolute b
d to replace. I just unbolt the roof and lift it off. Some have been lucky and managed to get the pump out via the boot, but original factory pumps are cable tied to the wiring harness and are wedged in pretty tight. Relocating the pump is one option, another is to cut an inch wide hole in the base of the plastic cubby so water drains out easily.Z4 boots open on the key that needs a pretty determined twist to open. Iirc, some E85's have an emergency pull handle accessed via ski hatch - I've never used it so don't know for definite.
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