1978 Datsun 260Z Restomod 630bhp
Discussion
Hi i have some Q's,.....sorry for the volume.
Power Output & Verification (630 bhp Claim)
Do you have any dyno sheets, power runs, or ECU logs showing the 630 bhp figure? (When was the last dyno? On what fuel/boost level — pump 98/99, E85 mix, or race fuel?)
What boost pressure, AFRs, and ignition timing are used in the current map? Can you share the Link G4+ map file or key parameters (or screenshots of logs)?
Has the engine been on a dyno or data-logged recently (last 1–2 years)?
Any knock events, EGTs, or oil/coolant temp issues under load?
What fuel system supports the power (injectors, pump, regulator)? Any upgrades to fuel lines, return system, or surge tank?
How was the "road tests deemed it enough" mapping done? Was it conservative for street use, or pushed hard?
Engine & Drivetrain Build Quality/Reliability
What’s the full build history of the Spool 3.4L stroker (who assembled it, any receipts for internals like CP pistons, billet crank/rods, ARP hardware)?
Any compression/leakdown test results?
Have there been any engine issues, oil consumption, smoke, or overheating since the 2017 completion?
Details on the turbo setup (what turbo exactly, wastegate, blow-off valve)?
Any history of boost leaks or manifold cracks?
What diff is fitted, and has it been upgraded (LSD, ratio, strength for 600+ hp torque)?
Condition of the RB25 gearbox internals (<10k miles) — any synchro wear, grinding, or clutch slip under hard use?
Chassis, Suspension & Safety.
Has the chassis been seam-welded, reinforced, or fitted with a roll cage/subframe connectors?
Any evidence of flex or cracking under power?
Cm
. (exact BC Racing/Techno Toy specs, spring rates, damper settings). How easy is it to raise ride height for UK roads, and what was the previous 17" wheel setup like?
Brake upgrade details (Wilwood rotor/pad specs, master cylinder, bias adjustment). Any fade or overheating on track/high-speed runs?
Any underbody rust, structural issues, or previous accident/repair history not mentioned in the folders?
How does the car behave on real roads (traction, handling, heat management in traffic)?
Any grounding/exhaust or other issues beyond the noted ?
Why are you selling? (Any known upcoming work or reasons that could affect value/reliability?)
Can the car be viewed on a ramp/hoist with engine bay access?
Willing to support a pre-purchase inspection by my mechanic (compression test, boost leak, road test, etc.) and share all tuning/docs?
Any spare parts, wheels (the 17" set), or tools included?
Real-world fuel consumption, maintenance costs, and insurance details please for this build?
Thank you
Power Output & Verification (630 bhp Claim)
Do you have any dyno sheets, power runs, or ECU logs showing the 630 bhp figure? (When was the last dyno? On what fuel/boost level — pump 98/99, E85 mix, or race fuel?)
What boost pressure, AFRs, and ignition timing are used in the current map? Can you share the Link G4+ map file or key parameters (or screenshots of logs)?
Has the engine been on a dyno or data-logged recently (last 1–2 years)?
Any knock events, EGTs, or oil/coolant temp issues under load?
What fuel system supports the power (injectors, pump, regulator)? Any upgrades to fuel lines, return system, or surge tank?
How was the "road tests deemed it enough" mapping done? Was it conservative for street use, or pushed hard?
Engine & Drivetrain Build Quality/Reliability
What’s the full build history of the Spool 3.4L stroker (who assembled it, any receipts for internals like CP pistons, billet crank/rods, ARP hardware)?
Any compression/leakdown test results?
Have there been any engine issues, oil consumption, smoke, or overheating since the 2017 completion?
Details on the turbo setup (what turbo exactly, wastegate, blow-off valve)?
Any history of boost leaks or manifold cracks?
What diff is fitted, and has it been upgraded (LSD, ratio, strength for 600+ hp torque)?
Condition of the RB25 gearbox internals (<10k miles) — any synchro wear, grinding, or clutch slip under hard use?
Chassis, Suspension & Safety.
Has the chassis been seam-welded, reinforced, or fitted with a roll cage/subframe connectors?
Any evidence of flex or cracking under power?
Cm
. (exact BC Racing/Techno Toy specs, spring rates, damper settings). How easy is it to raise ride height for UK roads, and what was the previous 17" wheel setup like?
Brake upgrade details (Wilwood rotor/pad specs, master cylinder, bias adjustment). Any fade or overheating on track/high-speed runs?
Any underbody rust, structural issues, or previous accident/repair history not mentioned in the folders?
How does the car behave on real roads (traction, handling, heat management in traffic)?
Any grounding/exhaust or other issues beyond the noted ?
Why are you selling? (Any known upcoming work or reasons that could affect value/reliability?)
Can the car be viewed on a ramp/hoist with engine bay access?
Willing to support a pre-purchase inspection by my mechanic (compression test, boost leak, road test, etc.) and share all tuning/docs?
Any spare parts, wheels (the 17" set), or tools included?
Real-world fuel consumption, maintenance costs, and insurance details please for this build?
Thank you
Awake said:
Hi i have some Q's,.....sorry for the volume.
Power Output & Verification (630 bhp Claim)
Do you have any dyno sheets, power runs, or ECU logs showing the 630 bhp figure? (When was the last dyno? On what fuel/boost level pump 98/99, E85 mix, or race fuel?)
What boost pressure, AFRs, and ignition timing are used in the current map? Can you share the Link G4+ map file or key parameters (or screenshots of logs)?
Has the engine been on a dyno or data-logged recently (last 1 2 years)?
Any knock events, EGTs, or oil/coolant temp issues under load?
What fuel system supports the power (injectors, pump, regulator)? Any upgrades to fuel lines, return system, or surge tank?
How was the "road tests deemed it enough" mapping done? Was it conservative for street use, or pushed hard?
Engine & Drivetrain Build Quality/Reliability
What s the full build history of the Spool 3.4L stroker (who assembled it, any receipts for internals like CP pistons, billet crank/rods, ARP hardware)?
Any compression/leakdown test results?
Have there been any engine issues, oil consumption, smoke, or overheating since the 2017 completion?
Details on the turbo setup (what turbo exactly, wastegate, blow-off valve)?
Any history of boost leaks or manifold cracks?
What diff is fitted, and has it been upgraded (LSD, ratio, strength for 600+ hp torque)?
Condition of the RB25 gearbox internals (<10k miles) any synchro wear, grinding, or clutch slip under hard use?
Chassis, Suspension & Safety.
Has the chassis been seam-welded, reinforced, or fitted with a roll cage/subframe connectors?
Any evidence of flex or cracking under power?
Cm
. (exact BC Racing/Techno Toy specs, spring rates, damper settings). How easy is it to raise ride height for UK roads, and what was the previous 17" wheel setup like?
Brake upgrade details (Wilwood rotor/pad specs, master cylinder, bias adjustment). Any fade or overheating on track/high-speed runs?
Any underbody rust, structural issues, or previous accident/repair history not mentioned in the folders?
How does the car behave on real roads (traction, handling, heat management in traffic)?
Any grounding/exhaust or other issues beyond the noted ?
Why are you selling? (Any known upcoming work or reasons that could affect value/reliability?)
Can the car be viewed on a ramp/hoist with engine bay access?
Willing to support a pre-purchase inspection by my mechanic (compression test, boost leak, road test, etc.) and share all tuning/docs?
Any spare parts, wheels (the 17" set), or tools included?
Real-world fuel consumption, maintenance costs, and insurance details please for this build?
Thank you
Hi Power Output & Verification (630 bhp Claim)
Do you have any dyno sheets, power runs, or ECU logs showing the 630 bhp figure? (When was the last dyno? On what fuel/boost level pump 98/99, E85 mix, or race fuel?)
What boost pressure, AFRs, and ignition timing are used in the current map? Can you share the Link G4+ map file or key parameters (or screenshots of logs)?
Has the engine been on a dyno or data-logged recently (last 1 2 years)?
Any knock events, EGTs, or oil/coolant temp issues under load?
What fuel system supports the power (injectors, pump, regulator)? Any upgrades to fuel lines, return system, or surge tank?
How was the "road tests deemed it enough" mapping done? Was it conservative for street use, or pushed hard?
Engine & Drivetrain Build Quality/Reliability
What s the full build history of the Spool 3.4L stroker (who assembled it, any receipts for internals like CP pistons, billet crank/rods, ARP hardware)?
Any compression/leakdown test results?
Have there been any engine issues, oil consumption, smoke, or overheating since the 2017 completion?
Details on the turbo setup (what turbo exactly, wastegate, blow-off valve)?
Any history of boost leaks or manifold cracks?
What diff is fitted, and has it been upgraded (LSD, ratio, strength for 600+ hp torque)?
Condition of the RB25 gearbox internals (<10k miles) any synchro wear, grinding, or clutch slip under hard use?
Chassis, Suspension & Safety.
Has the chassis been seam-welded, reinforced, or fitted with a roll cage/subframe connectors?
Any evidence of flex or cracking under power?
Cm
. (exact BC Racing/Techno Toy specs, spring rates, damper settings). How easy is it to raise ride height for UK roads, and what was the previous 17" wheel setup like?
Brake upgrade details (Wilwood rotor/pad specs, master cylinder, bias adjustment). Any fade or overheating on track/high-speed runs?
Any underbody rust, structural issues, or previous accident/repair history not mentioned in the folders?
How does the car behave on real roads (traction, handling, heat management in traffic)?
Any grounding/exhaust or other issues beyond the noted ?
Why are you selling? (Any known upcoming work or reasons that could affect value/reliability?)
Can the car be viewed on a ramp/hoist with engine bay access?
Willing to support a pre-purchase inspection by my mechanic (compression test, boost leak, road test, etc.) and share all tuning/docs?
Any spare parts, wheels (the 17" set), or tools included?
Real-world fuel consumption, maintenance costs, and insurance details please for this build?
Thank you
The car behaves on real roads exceptionally well. The torque down low due to the stroker engine makes it very easy to drive at legal driving speeds, with overtaking available basically in any gear. On boost the car is confident but very fast, and I ve always treated it with respect. I am not a race car driver and I have used this car mainly for car shows - I will only push the car on an open straight road on a warm sunny day. I m not sure what your background is but this is the fastest car I ve ever driven and even after 3 years it still blows my mind. The car has electric power steering which can be adjusted via a variable switch, and makes parking the car a breeze and gives you the option to modulate the feel to whatever you re comfortable with. The brakes are generally good and the suspension is firm (and adjustable). The only downsides, if you want to call them that, is the car is noisy inside the cabin and the wide 15 wheels do track a bit on cambered roads. I have had no issues with the car in terms of mechanical breakdowns, overheating or any significant issues and would not hesitate to take it on a road trip tomorrow. The exhaust sounds lovely, it has two resonators and gives the correct RB noises on boost but relatively civil when going around town.
I have not personally done any Dyno runs since owning the car as I ve not felt the need to. It s incredibly quick and has a really nice smooth power delivery, I would not change it at all. Boost starts to build around 2,500 RPM and comes on properly around 3,500 RPM and is very easily anticipated.I have submitted a Dyno graph of the final power run, which was in September 2016. To clarify, the mapping was done on several rolling road days (Tune 4 Performance) and the road test was the previous owner driving it and realizing that there was no need to chase further power. He had built the car hoping to achieve 750hp, and was initially disappointed to only make 630hp - but after driving it on the road realized that there was no need in chasing higher power.
I have driven the car approx 3,500 miles and have had no issues with the engine/boost/events etc. I can t put into words how nicely it drives, both on and off boost. I can look into further details if you wish, but the car is tuned for premium fuel and only 13psi of boost.
The engine was assembled by Spool, Australia, and shipped directly to the UK. An engine builder checked over the engine and the previous owner put it together and into the car - this was his 3rd RB engine in a Datsun. The invoice for the parts are on the advert - image 154 - and the initial assembly work for the RB30 is on image 158.
There have been zero issues with the engine - no boost leaks, excessive oil consumption, smoking etc. The manifold is a Walton Fab manifold and has no cracks. It s a Borg Warner EFR 9180 Turbo with a Turbosmart Pro-Gate50.
There are two Dual Bosch 200 fuel pumps installed with braided fuel lines throughout the car and 1000cc top feed injectors on a custom loom.
I have been advised that the Diff is an R200 long-nose with a Nismo LSD 1.5way mechanical assembly, but i have not had it open to check. It behaves well on acceleration and cornering and has the usual mechanical noise at slow (<5mph) speeds when turning high angles of turn.
The gearbox was ordered brand new from Japan at the end of 2014, and has covered probably 13k miles. I have not had the internals of the gearbox inspected. For my use-case (fast road) it feels good with no scary noises in any gears. If you were going to track/drag the car then you ll need to consider a stronger gearbox as these are not really rated for constant abuse at this power.
The chassis has not been seamwelded and there is not a rollcage. There is a rear and forward strut bar. I m not a racing driver so I cannot comment on flex, but it s probably safe to say that you ll gain a significant amount of stiffness installing a cage. Truthfully, this is on my to-do list from a safety point of view.
BC Racing BR coilovers, standard spring rates, welded on the OEM hubs (as is required for this car). The car is easily raised/lowered, it s as simple as removing a wheel and using two c-spanners to adjust the height - all 4 corners can be done within half an hour. The adjustable dampening has 30 levels and I have left it neutral. Techno Toy Tuning rear lower control arms (specs and adjustment levels can be found online).
Wilwood 2-piston front rotors and pads were supplied by DJR, and can be seen on Image 145 & 146. Pads are Wilwood 9184 s with lots of life left in them, street performance/race compound. I have never tracked/raced the car so I cannot comment on their performance, but for fast road, which includes the odd pull, they are good and have not suffered any cracking/marbling/etc as can be seen by the good condition in the photographs.
The car was aligned when on 17 wheels, a set of Rota RB s on Toyo tyres - and when these came to the end of their life I decided to upgrade to the Watanabe R-Type wheels directly from Watanabe, and had the Nankang CR-S installed. These are super grippy tyres and have ~700 miles on them and good treadwear. The car drove smoother on the 17 wheels, but these would need new tyres to go on them. I personally love the aesthetics of the period 15 wheels and have accepted the reduction in handling/cornering as the car is primarily a show car for me.
The structure of the car is incredibly good - there s zero rust evident anywhere on any part of it. The pictures of the underside were taken without being cleaned/touched up and shows some minor scraping damage when I was a little too enthusiastic with the ride height setting for last season car shows. I have raised the suspension and it still sits nicely and no longer has any significant issues with speedbumps etc. My understanding is there has been no significant accidents with the car, but it has been rebuilt/restored at least 2 times in its life. It had an issue back in 2016/2017 with a curb that broke a rear suspension shock and caused some bodywork damage, and this was the motivation for the further suspension upgrades and the bodywork/paint job in 2017.
It did spend some time on Santa Pod drag strip where it ate a couple of engines, which prompted the previous owner to go big and buy the best Spool setup available. I believe it has not seen a drag strip since this particular engine was installed. In my ownership, I managed to knock the exhaust off the hanger whilst driving on an aggressive dip which has flat-spotted the bottom of the exhaust and the tip, although again a minor aesthetic issue which is easily rectified.
The arches are cut and welded with protection to ensure there s no rust - I have photographs of this and you can see from the images that there is no evidence of any rust build up anywhere. There is some minor wear on the inside of the cabin, which have all been photographed. The passenger side footwell could do with a fascia to hide the wiring.
I have access to a 4 post lift which can be used to facilitate inspections during a viewing, but if you want compression tests then we d need to discuss a certified and insured professional to carry them out. I am happy to host up to two people to the workshop, and I can do a road test, weather dependent, but nobody will be driving the car except myself.
The car can come with the 17 wheels and a different front air dam, and comes with some minor tools (such as the coilover spanners etc)
I can t say I ve ever worked out the real-world fuel consumption, and while it probably won t win any Fuel Efficiency awards, I d guess it s somewhere in the 20 s. Maintenance has been cheap, I ve done yearly oil changes, fluid flush, spark plugs etc and the car is incredibly easy to work on.
Insurance is fully declared with Adrian Flux as a classic modified car and costs me around £400/year on an Agreed Value policy.
I m selling the car as I ve gotten a bit carried away on a house purchase.
There is no major upcoming work required with the car other than setting it up how you d like it. There are some very minor things that could get done (such as tidying up the underside scrapes, replacing the tip of the exhaust, getting the car aligned on whatever wheel/rideheight setup you like). As the car is a classic car and a performance car rolled into one, there will inevitably be things that need attention but as of right now I don t anticipate anything major.
Edited by Devil.Z on Thursday 21st May 01:18
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