Need help removing inner tie rods
Need help removing inner tie rods
Author
Discussion

bayzoo

Original Poster:

140 posts

64 months

Saturday 4th April
quotequote all
I have the power steering system off the car and one of the boots had split on a tie rod and there gravel ingress so I thought I’d replace both.

After snapping an oil pan bolt today I’m terrified of breaking something else. I’ve tried holding it in a vicde and using a spanner but I’m wary of putting too much torque on the rack. Any tips?







Belle427

11,569 posts

258 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
Maybe grind the flats on the tie rod ends a bit better to allow a spanner to fit, not sure what you can use on the rack rods, they look a bit small.
I would try a bit of heat too, just be careful you don`t go overboard and cook the rack seals.

Davie

6,041 posts

240 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
If the rack is off the car then you'll need to clamp it firmly on the main body, the vice is good... and to get the inner rack ends off, I usually use a big pipe spanner / Stilsons. It 'shouldn't' BD rusted in so will just be FT. Bug I agree, that much rotational force through the rack innards never feels good...

normalbloke

8,631 posts

244 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
The proper tools that slip over the rod and allow you to 7ntil them with the rack in situ are a godsend, and no longer expensive either. Not much use now the rack is off the car though.

bayzoo

Original Poster:

140 posts

64 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
Thanks I’ll try some of these methods when the rack is back onto the subframe - if I put my weight on the subframe I should be able to apply the torque to break them free

TwinKam

3,554 posts

120 months

Sunday 5th April
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On or off the car, I always ensure that the end I'm working on is pushed right in (so that the knuckle is up against the rack housing), reducing any bending action on the rack (sliding part). Torsional forces you cannot avoid, but they're not usually that tight, obviously release any tab washer first.

Dave.

7,838 posts

278 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
Saw DannyDC2 using one similar to this the other week…..

https://www.maxpeedingrods.co.uk/product/12pcs-12-...

…the was to torque his to spec though, rather than remove, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t.

He got his from Amazon, I guess they’re all made in the same factory somewhere.

bayzoo

Original Poster:

140 posts

64 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
On or off the car, I always ensure that the end I'm working on is pushed right in (so that the knuckle is up against the rack housing), reducing any bending action on the rack (sliding part). Torsional forces you cannot avoid, but they're not usually that tight, obviously release any tab washer first.
Thanks great shout I’ll do this once it’s on the sub frame.

bayzoo

Original Poster:

140 posts

64 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
Dave. said:
Saw DannyDC2 using one similar to this the other week ..

https://www.maxpeedingrods.co.uk/product/12pcs-12-...

the was to torque his to spec though, rather than remove, but I don t see why it wouldn t.

He got his from Amazon, I guess they re all made in the same factory somewhere.
Thanks I went and ordered this from Amazon:

DAYUAN Inner Tie Rod End Tool Multi Purpose 33mm-42mm
https://amzn.eu/d/05pBImH1

So if this doesn’t work I might have to try the tool you have suggested.

normalbloke

8,631 posts

244 months

Sunday 5th April
quotequote all
Dave. said:
Saw DannyDC2 using one similar to this the other week ..

https://www.maxpeedingrods.co.uk/product/12pcs-12-...

the was to torque his to spec though, rather than remove, but I don t see why it wouldn t.

He got his from Amazon, I guess they re all made in the same factory somewhere.
This is the type of tool I alluded to earlier in the thread.

Dave.

7,838 posts

278 months

Monday 6th April
quotequote all
normalbloke said:
This is the type of tool I alluded to earlier in the thread.
I meant to quote your post when I posted smile