Plasterboard or have it plastered

[Too Late]

Hi all
One for the plasterer's.

This wall was left by the builders and they mentioned the plasterer will plaster over this with bond to build out before plastering.

2 things.
There is a crack in the wall and there is a gap in the ceiling.

Am I best to plasterboard the wall before plastering?



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Edited by Too Late on Sunday 8th February 17:17

[wolfracesonic]

No need for plasterboard I wouldn’t have thought; backing plaster on the block work over the window, Blue Grit the existing plaster, some Fibatape where they meet and over the cracks, job done. If you’re set on plaster boarding, strip the rest of the plaster off and think about using insulated plasterboard.

[Too Late]

Thanks, i was worried about the gap between the ceiling and wall. Thanks

[Mr_J]

wolfracesonic said:

If you re set on plaster boarding, strip the rest of the plaster off and think about using insulated plasterboard.

I'd do this, you'll never get an opportunity as good as now to do it. You've already got a plasterer coming and you need new skirting. Strips the remaining plaster off and insulate the whole wall, even 50mm will make a difference. It's an extra cost but worth it in terms of comfort.

[miroku1]

It appears whoever has replaced the window has set the reveals for a dot and dab board on the wall ?
Have you asked the plasterers to traditionally make good , in my experience they really won’t want to do it , I had to threaten to do it myself last time I asked this question until they finally gave in !!

[Too Late]

Awesome, thanks for the replies. I have 2 walls in this room i think i will do it on. The cavity of our 1960 hour is very small so i think adding the 50mm PIR plasterboard will be a good benefit

If i went this route. Would i still need to repair the crack under the window?

Thanks all

[Magooagain]

If the existing plaster is solid then just prep the surface and just dot and dab with insulated plasterboard.

If you’re worried about that crack then chase across and chem-fix a couple of rods across beforehand.

[Too Late]

Awesome, thanks all

I have attempted to knock the existing plasterboard off but its not coming off very easily. So my plan:

dot and dab PIR to the wall
Use insulation anchors into the PIR and the wall
Drywall screw the plasterboard into the PIR board.
What do you think?

Thanks all

[OutInTheShed]

It might be interesting to 'do the maths' for PIR.
It's a small area, the window will probably dominate.

To put in a bit of plasterboard, dry-lining style, and make good is easy DIY IMHO.

Any useful thickness of PIR will make the room smaller. Don't underestimate the probability of some piece of furniture being 2 inches too big sometime soon!

I would fill the gap around the ceiling plasterboard. Squirty foam behind the wall plasterboard perhaps, that allows a bit of movement, you don't want to stress the ceiling boards and cause cracks.

Now is the time to decide if you need more sockets, lights, fixings for curtain rails, shelves or ....

[megaphone]

Are the blocks above the window new? What is supporting them other than what looks like a bit of MDF or plasterboard? Are they sitting on a lintel?

[wolfracesonic]

Too Late said:

Awesome, thanks all

I have attempted to knock the existing plasterboard off but its not coming off very easily. So my plan:

dot and dab PIR to the wall
Use insulation anchors into the PIR and the wall
Drywall screw the plasterboard into the PIR board.
What do you think?

Thanks all

I wouldn’t screw into the PIR with drywall screws and expect them to get a good hold, I’ve never tried it but I can’t see them getting much purchase on the PIR. If you are set on using PIR and separate plasterboards, use some sort of no nails to hold the PIR in place loosely, then fix the plasterboards using something like these, fixing thingies, going through into the brickwork/blockwork.
I’d make an effort to remove the plasterboard already fixed to the reveals and use some PIR there as well, if you have the depth, reveals being a prime spot for thermal bridging and subsequent mould growth

[Little Lofty]

Don’t use separate PIR and plasterboard, you need an insulated plasterboard. PIR doesn't stick too well, and plasterboard does not stick well to it either, you would be better fixing lath to the wall or building a stud wall if using PIR. There’s a bit too much foam around that window for my liking, does it fit well externally? The odd margins would also no my head in.

[Too Late]

Thanks everyone who have replied.

Now looking at 6 sheets of Celotex PL4000 (insulated Plasterboard).

The room is 360x330. One wall in question is the window wall. Its a 1960's build and while i am doing a large renovation, i thought best to insulate the room a bit more.

I am assuming i can dot and dab the insulated plasterboard?
Reading the comments, i am best to look at insulated plasterboard rather than PIR and plasterboard seperatly.

Now i could just dot and dab some plasterboard or let the plasterer crack on a skim all the walls. I seem to now be in a rabbit hole looking at trying to improve the insulation in the room by including some insulated plasterboards on the walls.

This is a spare room so not too concerned by losing a bit of space on 2 walls. The window was enlarged using a steel lintel. The window sits on a stone sill and since its been cold. i put some insulation expanding foam around the stone to reduce some of the cold coming into the house. I do need to cut it back.

Thanks Nick