Cutting MDF kitchen cabinet door
Discussion
I'm looking at putting in a 70/30 or 60/40 fridge. The cabinet is 193 and the fridge is 177. The doors in BQ for our kitchen are either 70/30 or 50/50. I'm thinking of putting a cupboard or a wine rack at the top and having the fridge door go up to 177. Can I cut the door myself with a fine saw and put the iron on strip on, does it look any good . What I don't want is it looking naff. Would a professional kitchen workshop do a better job or use any other type of edging etc.
Cut the edge that can't be seen - either higher or lower from eyesight
lightly screw or clamp a straight edge to the back of the door
To get a good finish you will need a circular saw or track saw - I don't know what range of tools you have
A hand saw or even jigsaw won't give a great result
This video present the principle I'm trying to illustrate
If the cut is clean the iron on strip will work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43yMzyd1U1w
lightly screw or clamp a straight edge to the back of the door
To get a good finish you will need a circular saw or track saw - I don't know what range of tools you have
A hand saw or even jigsaw won't give a great result
This video present the principle I'm trying to illustrate
If the cut is clean the iron on strip will work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43yMzyd1U1w
I’ve just cut down some gloss finish end panels. About as unforgiving as you get!
Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Score the cut line first. That gives a clean break in the surface so the saw blade cut ends at the scoreline. Use a good straight edge and a sharp blade. Cut the scoreline deep enough, repeated cuts as necessary.
The same for any wood where you want a clean edge, whether plain or laminated.
The same for any wood where you want a clean edge, whether plain or laminated.
RotorRambler said:
I ve just cut down some gloss finish end panels. About as unforgiving as you get!
Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Whether it s a circular saw or track saw always cut end panels/ doors anything with a clean edge, face side down, so your saw cut is going through the back of the panel, then you ll get a machine like finish on the good side.Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Only exception is if your track has a new splinter guide fitted if using a track saw but these wear out very quickly.
Leaving the protective film in situ does nothing to the saw cut in the panel.
If I want a machine like finish on both edges I ll cut the panel 10mm bigger then use my router to finish the edge so it s clean both sides, (track guides with router base) normal 12.7mm kitchen double flute bit is all you need in a 1/2 inch router collet.
I used a jigsaw with T101BR Wood blades. masking on both sides and a straight edge to make a 150mm wide door (kitchen offered 300mm as min). I cut a few mm over and then used a sander which provided a near perfect edge. Added the edging strip on and you'd struggle to tell it wasn't original. So other options can be a success.
Promised Land said:
Whether it s a circular saw or track saw always cut end panels/ doors anything with a clean edge, face side down, so your saw cut is going through the back of the panel, then you ll get a machine like finish on the good side.
Only exception is if your track has a new splinter guide fitted if using a track saw but these wear out very quickly.
Leaving the protective film in situ does nothing to the saw cut in the panel.
If I want a machine like finish on both edges I ll cut the panel 10mm bigger then use my router to finish the edge so it s clean both sides, (track guides with router base) normal 12.7mm kitchen double flute bit is all you need in a 1/2 inch router collet.
Exactly what I do, Only exception is if your track has a new splinter guide fitted if using a track saw but these wear out very quickly.
Leaving the protective film in situ does nothing to the saw cut in the panel.
If I want a machine like finish on both edges I ll cut the panel 10mm bigger then use my router to finish the edge so it s clean both sides, (track guides with router base) normal 12.7mm kitchen double flute bit is all you need in a 1/2 inch router collet.
cut panel using circular saw with fine tooth blade, face side down plus you can put some masking tape on where you intend to cut which will help give a cleaner finish,
then if I want a really clean edge, as Promised Land says, a router and a 1/2" straight edge cutter will give the best finish.
edited to add .... also when cutting mdf it's always a good policy to wear a suitable mask, even if cutting outdoors
Edited by timberman on Thursday 5th February 14:15
All sorts of options, in part depends on the quality of the door and the coating as some will be fragile.
Last time I had to do it was with high gloss, flat wet polished 2K painted MDF. Very unforgiving.
In that case I did it by hand with a Japanese saw as it could do very straight cuts with no chipping.
80 tooth blade on a track saw was another option (Mafell has a feature explictly for laminate type surface cutting), or putting the router on the track.
Last time I had to do it was with high gloss, flat wet polished 2K painted MDF. Very unforgiving.
In that case I did it by hand with a Japanese saw as it could do very straight cuts with no chipping.
80 tooth blade on a track saw was another option (Mafell has a feature explictly for laminate type surface cutting), or putting the router on the track.
If you can find anywhere with a proper table and band saw that would be the best answer. Very fine cut and absolutely perpendicular, with the face of the door left perfect.
The chances of getting a decent result by hand are IMO negligible. A fine toothed disc and clamped guide would be the best home solution.
The chances of getting a decent result by hand are IMO negligible. A fine toothed disc and clamped guide would be the best home solution.
Promised Land said:
RotorRambler said:
I ve just cut down some gloss finish end panels. About as unforgiving as you get!
Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Whether it s a circular saw or track saw always cut end panels/ doors anything with a clean edge, face side down, so your saw cut is going through the back of the panel, then you ll get a machine like finish on the good side.Had a practice first.
The panel had a protective film, left that in place during sawing.
A brand new circular saw blade, that left the edge a little rough looking, like fine chips.
A new fine toothed hand saw was a little better, but slow going & hard to keep it straight & true.
Either fine for me, as the cut edge sat underneath the worktop.
Only exception is if your track has a new splinter guide fitted if using a track saw but these wear out very quickly.
Leaving the protective film in situ does nothing to the saw cut in the panel.
If I want a machine like finish on both edges I ll cut the panel 10mm bigger then use my router to finish the edge so it s clean both sides, (track guides with router base) normal 12.7mm kitchen double flute bit is all you need in a 1/2 inch router collet.
Was good enough for me thankfully as the cut edge of the end panels butt up to the worktop above..
RotorRambler said:
I wish i d asked the question before my attempt!
Was good enough for me thankfully as the cut edge of the end panels butt up to the worktop above..
Yes for base end panels you’d get away with a thin bead of silicone if too tough but whenever I fit kitchens like this week I always, even with my track saw do it face side down, saw kerf then is on the side not seen.Was good enough for me thankfully as the cut edge of the end panels butt up to the worktop above..
But as above best way is a router to get a clean edge in and outside.
Then if edging it, they look like a machined finish.
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