Interceptor, advice, tips and info required!
Discussion
So, further to my previous thread here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... , I won't repeat where it came from cost and any pictures of said car.
I intend to use my car regularly (apart from winter) and do a big 6k trip in 2027 so with reliability important I would like to focus on the known weak points that may be a good idea to change before they go wrong (50 year old car prob means everything is a weak point..)
Quick question, its a '71 S2 and when I look on the Martin Robey site I was surprised to see so many differences to the S3, as the S3 is said to be more sorted than the S2 are their simple upgrades to be had when renewing parts (ie get the S3 versions)?
Current known issues
Brakes don't work (will explain later)
Fuel line runs next to exhaust under the car so needs rerouting and covering in heatproof material
Front shocks need replacing
bottom joint on bottom joint suspension requires adjusting
replace rebound rubbers
refit bottom suspension plate
replace prescollan washers top and bottom
Brakes, they (company I purchased the car through) recommended new brake lines calipers and pads.
Note when it got delivered the transporter tipped the car upwards to unload and I rolled back despite pushing the brakes hard, very little happened, case of eventually you would stop but even at 10mph they could not stop the car dead, it was like they were only just touching the rotors as softly as possible
The brake pedal has around 2 inches of travel then the pedal stops hard, no spongy feel or 'soft resistance' at all. you can't 'pump the pedal back up' either so I don't think its air in the system.
All disks are brand new with zero wear and so assume (I didn't take the wheel off) the pads must also be new as they are normally fitted at same time as the new disks.
Can't believe al 4 calipers broke at once so it's my guess the issue is the servo requires full refurbishment?
Does this sound reasonable?
Suspension.
Feels like it might be worth stripping down the entire mechanism on each side, renew all rubbers, bearings and possibly even sand blast and paint the metal parts or is this a significantly difficult thing to do and jus ntchange the bump stops and shocks as they advise?
Also whilst updating the front suspension is it worth putting in a new sway bar with a more beefed up version to assist with the handling?
Re springs, as I understand it its best to leave as is if your happy with the ride height( which I am), and get adjustable shocks?
Note the rear suspension has original leaf springs but again, nice ride height, also has new poly bushes and new adjustable shocks fitted so I think at least I can leave this alone for now
Is their any part of the suspension (when doing a full break down) you would replace out of caution/ wear/ weaken such as track rod ends etc?
Engine, has electronic ignition fitted large rad and large fan as well as oil cooler with its own rad and fan.
Not sure on other mods it may have at this stage, anything else suggested here to look for or add ?
On smaller items, both the windows are extremely slow /stop going down, I assume a strip down and grease will help? or are more modern quieter motors recommend to be fitted?
The window rubbers on each door look a mess and im not sure if they will keep any water out, does anyone have a close up picture on how they are supposed to look?
Anything I have listed considered non DIY and pro only fit (im a newbie but everyone is at some point
)
As I don't live in the UK I would rather do a one shot with everything kind of order from Martin Robey to keep prices down, so are there any parts you would include that may not look like renewing but probably will need it /will be old and should be renewed anyway?
Also looking to buy the workshop manual, parts catalogue and 383 engine manual, assume these makes sense and are worth the money?
Finally, im a member of JOC so will cut and paste most off this there too to get the most advise as possible!!!
I intend to use my car regularly (apart from winter) and do a big 6k trip in 2027 so with reliability important I would like to focus on the known weak points that may be a good idea to change before they go wrong (50 year old car prob means everything is a weak point..)
Quick question, its a '71 S2 and when I look on the Martin Robey site I was surprised to see so many differences to the S3, as the S3 is said to be more sorted than the S2 are their simple upgrades to be had when renewing parts (ie get the S3 versions)?
Current known issues
Brakes don't work (will explain later)
Fuel line runs next to exhaust under the car so needs rerouting and covering in heatproof material
Front shocks need replacing
bottom joint on bottom joint suspension requires adjusting
replace rebound rubbers
refit bottom suspension plate
replace prescollan washers top and bottom
Brakes, they (company I purchased the car through) recommended new brake lines calipers and pads.
Note when it got delivered the transporter tipped the car upwards to unload and I rolled back despite pushing the brakes hard, very little happened, case of eventually you would stop but even at 10mph they could not stop the car dead, it was like they were only just touching the rotors as softly as possible
The brake pedal has around 2 inches of travel then the pedal stops hard, no spongy feel or 'soft resistance' at all. you can't 'pump the pedal back up' either so I don't think its air in the system.
All disks are brand new with zero wear and so assume (I didn't take the wheel off) the pads must also be new as they are normally fitted at same time as the new disks.
Can't believe al 4 calipers broke at once so it's my guess the issue is the servo requires full refurbishment?
Does this sound reasonable?
Suspension.
Feels like it might be worth stripping down the entire mechanism on each side, renew all rubbers, bearings and possibly even sand blast and paint the metal parts or is this a significantly difficult thing to do and jus ntchange the bump stops and shocks as they advise?
Also whilst updating the front suspension is it worth putting in a new sway bar with a more beefed up version to assist with the handling?
Re springs, as I understand it its best to leave as is if your happy with the ride height( which I am), and get adjustable shocks?
Note the rear suspension has original leaf springs but again, nice ride height, also has new poly bushes and new adjustable shocks fitted so I think at least I can leave this alone for now
Is their any part of the suspension (when doing a full break down) you would replace out of caution/ wear/ weaken such as track rod ends etc?
Engine, has electronic ignition fitted large rad and large fan as well as oil cooler with its own rad and fan.
Not sure on other mods it may have at this stage, anything else suggested here to look for or add ?
On smaller items, both the windows are extremely slow /stop going down, I assume a strip down and grease will help? or are more modern quieter motors recommend to be fitted?
The window rubbers on each door look a mess and im not sure if they will keep any water out, does anyone have a close up picture on how they are supposed to look?
Anything I have listed considered non DIY and pro only fit (im a newbie but everyone is at some point
)As I don't live in the UK I would rather do a one shot with everything kind of order from Martin Robey to keep prices down, so are there any parts you would include that may not look like renewing but probably will need it /will be old and should be renewed anyway?
Also looking to buy the workshop manual, parts catalogue and 383 engine manual, assume these makes sense and are worth the money?
Finally, im a member of JOC so will cut and paste most off this there too to get the most advise as possible!!!
Edited by Peeping Turtle on Thursday 15th January 01:27
Edited by Peeping Turtle on Thursday 15th January 01:29
Edited by Peeping Turtle on Thursday 15th January 01:37
Firstly, I noticed you haven’t yet posted this on the JOC forum. That is quite honestly where you are going to get the best advice and most comprehensive replies to your questions. You will also get the benefit of posters who are USA residents who have already completed similar projects and can advise what to import and what to source locally. Who knows, someone on there may be local to you.
All that sounds like a plug for the JOC; it’s not, you are already a member and I am not (even though I own a Jensen). However, I will give a couple of suggestions:
1. Read through your post in slow time and edit it before posting on the Club Forum. It’s currently a pretty tough read and I have to admit to giving up part way through.
2. Tackle one job at a time. There is nothing quite as demoralising as a car completely in bits - especially if there is no real reason to do so.
All that sounds like a plug for the JOC; it’s not, you are already a member and I am not (even though I own a Jensen). However, I will give a couple of suggestions:
1. Read through your post in slow time and edit it before posting on the Club Forum. It’s currently a pretty tough read and I have to admit to giving up part way through.
2. Tackle one job at a time. There is nothing quite as demoralising as a car completely in bits - especially if there is no real reason to do so.
A couple of quick comments having just skim-read your post:
One thing you don't mention is the cooling system. Your car might be updated / fine, but worth a check.
Re brakes, no personal experience but have I read it correctly that you're thinking of 17" rotors? If so, and it is nothing more than my opinion, that seems like overkill unless you're intending to increase the performance significantly, and it wouldn't be the top of my priority list if I was looking primarily for reliability.
One thing you don't mention is the cooling system. Your car might be updated / fine, but worth a check.
Re brakes, no personal experience but have I read it correctly that you're thinking of 17" rotors? If so, and it is nothing more than my opinion, that seems like overkill unless you're intending to increase the performance significantly, and it wouldn't be the top of my priority list if I was looking primarily for reliability.
As the post said above….
The cooling system needs serious attention. You would be lucky as an Interceptor owner if it didn’t.
The common addition in years gone by was 2 Golf GTi electric fans mounted as per normal with some suitable bracketry. It could be a 2-stage affair.
One comes in when you are travelling slowly, and the other joins in when you are stationary. I fitted this on mine.
Flush the coolant, and replace ALL the water hoses. Big blocks use fuel, and that waste heat has to go somewhere. The thermal soak kills plastics, rubbers and cables….The radiator needs to be in top notch too, or replaced with something a LOT better. Improved water pump too. Plenty of Interceptor owners will know which one to buy. The heat that rises up opening the bonnet after a decent run (not even being driven hard) is something else. I had a boil over in mine when the original fans decided not to bother. Very spectacular. Interceptor ownership is characterised by keeping one eye on the road, and the other eye between the fuel gauge and, if approaching urban areas/traffic, the temperature gauge.
I wouldn’t even dream of fuel injection etc… at this stage. Make sure the car is reliable and replace all the nuts, bolts, washers, gaskets, seals, bushes that you can. Engine and gearbox spares are as a cheap as chips, but there is a huge temptation to start buying performance goodies.
The only worthwhile modification I can think of would be an overdrive transmission. Or a swap out for something 5/6/7/8 speed from GM/ZF.
I was told that the lower part of the front suspension was Bedford CF van, and the upper part and the steering was Triumph TR5/6. I have no idea if this is true.
The rear diff is standard Salisbury – a la Jaguar.
These cars are 50+ years old, the amount of hardware that will need refurbishment is almost endless.
I think most of your effort will be keeping the rust at bay and the electrics working!
The cooling system needs serious attention. You would be lucky as an Interceptor owner if it didn’t.
The common addition in years gone by was 2 Golf GTi electric fans mounted as per normal with some suitable bracketry. It could be a 2-stage affair.
One comes in when you are travelling slowly, and the other joins in when you are stationary. I fitted this on mine.
Flush the coolant, and replace ALL the water hoses. Big blocks use fuel, and that waste heat has to go somewhere. The thermal soak kills plastics, rubbers and cables….The radiator needs to be in top notch too, or replaced with something a LOT better. Improved water pump too. Plenty of Interceptor owners will know which one to buy. The heat that rises up opening the bonnet after a decent run (not even being driven hard) is something else. I had a boil over in mine when the original fans decided not to bother. Very spectacular. Interceptor ownership is characterised by keeping one eye on the road, and the other eye between the fuel gauge and, if approaching urban areas/traffic, the temperature gauge.
I wouldn’t even dream of fuel injection etc… at this stage. Make sure the car is reliable and replace all the nuts, bolts, washers, gaskets, seals, bushes that you can. Engine and gearbox spares are as a cheap as chips, but there is a huge temptation to start buying performance goodies.
The only worthwhile modification I can think of would be an overdrive transmission. Or a swap out for something 5/6/7/8 speed from GM/ZF.
I was told that the lower part of the front suspension was Bedford CF van, and the upper part and the steering was Triumph TR5/6. I have no idea if this is true.
The rear diff is standard Salisbury – a la Jaguar.
These cars are 50+ years old, the amount of hardware that will need refurbishment is almost endless.
I think most of your effort will be keeping the rust at bay and the electrics working!
bucksmanuk said:
The only worthwhile modification I can think of would be an overdrive transmission. Or a swap out for something 5/6/7/8 speed from GM/ZF.
Yep, a Gear Vendors OD would be a worthwhile mod, but not cheap, and the cost of it would pay for an awful lot of fuel. I guess if you are planning long term (20+) ownership, then it might be a cost effective mod.I wouldn't even consider bigger wheels, the suspension design was never designed for modern low profile rubber band tyres, but then again, I prefer ride quality over grip, the Interceptor isn't a racing car. I get some people want to 'modernise' old cars, but I prefer to keep it to hidden bits that don't affect the OEM looks.
Thanks for the replies, i agree my oringal post is wayyyyy too long, ill sharpen it up tonight when i get home and do multiple posts instead in JOC
Some quick answers, it has a new huge alloy rad with 1 massive fan attached, small note, it was a California car that then went to the middle east where it changed hands and then got 'resto modded' before going back to blighty, so i assume the temp issue was delt with due to the excess heat out there that it would need to cope in. Note it also has an oil cooler rad strapped to the front of the water rad with its own fan
It has all new electrics , but not original, which means it will be difficult for me to trace stuff but then wiring is always a pain even with a diagram!
It should also be rust free (currently) being solid in places you can see and taking into consideration where it has lived (until now)
Re restomod looks, i do agree and hade it when companies put 22inch chrome rims on a 60's car, but the 17s dont seem over kill look wise with still a 55 tire so not some kind of rubber band, that said, im am also for comfort and balloon tires make a great suspension assistant
Some quick answers, it has a new huge alloy rad with 1 massive fan attached, small note, it was a California car that then went to the middle east where it changed hands and then got 'resto modded' before going back to blighty, so i assume the temp issue was delt with due to the excess heat out there that it would need to cope in. Note it also has an oil cooler rad strapped to the front of the water rad with its own fan
It has all new electrics , but not original, which means it will be difficult for me to trace stuff but then wiring is always a pain even with a diagram!
It should also be rust free (currently) being solid in places you can see and taking into consideration where it has lived (until now)
Re restomod looks, i do agree and hade it when companies put 22inch chrome rims on a 60's car, but the 17s dont seem over kill look wise with still a 55 tire so not some kind of rubber band, that said, im am also for comfort and balloon tires make a great suspension assistant
TarquinMX5 said:
I went back and re-read your October thread and realised that you were talking about 17" wheels, not 17" rotors (I think). However, you also mention 14", presumably also referring to wheel size, but is your car not on 15" wheels?
sorry my mistake I had it in my head the brakes were 14inch and 17inch, no idea where that come fromFossey do a standard brake kit for 15inch wheels, a vented one for 15inch wheels and a 'big brake ' kit for 17inch wheels (4 and 6 pot) but not sure of the size of rotors on either of those but obviously need to be smaller than the wheel!
I was looking for info on how much stronger performance you get on the '17inch wheel 'break kit v vented ones that fit 15inch wheels (standard).
Made a bit of a hash of the thread, sorry, need to find time to reword it all..
Re brakes: the original front size was front 11.38", rear 10.75"; there might have been a few anomalies as I've seen a reference to the SP having 10.75" fronts, but I think that is an error. Fronts were vented on the SP and the MKIII.
It will obviously depend on your intended use, but the brakes were generally deemed perfectly adequate, and from your intended use I suspect a properly sorted standard set-up would be fine, especially as you already have new rotors. I'd be more concerned about the cooling system being up to the job but it sounds as if yours has already been updated, but worth checking the hoses, fan electrics etc as has already been suggested.
Just out of interest, does yours have a vented bonnet?
It will obviously depend on your intended use, but the brakes were generally deemed perfectly adequate, and from your intended use I suspect a properly sorted standard set-up would be fine, especially as you already have new rotors. I'd be more concerned about the cooling system being up to the job but it sounds as if yours has already been updated, but worth checking the hoses, fan electrics etc as has already been suggested.
Just out of interest, does yours have a vented bonnet?
Edited by TarquinMX5 on Thursday 15th January 10:39
Im sure the OP wouldn’t mind me posting a link to the car he purchased - it might provide some context here:
https://cropredybridge.com/vehicles/1971-jensen-in...
https://cropredybridge.com/vehicles/1971-jensen-in...
That link's helpful, thanks. I've seen that advert previously, so perhaps I've been asleep on the job - it looks like a good starting point and answers a lot of questions.
My priority would be to correct the spelling of 'hazzard' on the switch panel, it must be those 'Yanks' butchering the English language again
- it looks like a good starting point and answers a lot of questions.My priority would be to correct the spelling of 'hazzard' on the switch panel, it must be those 'Yanks' butchering the English language again
TarquinMX5 said:
That link's helpful, thanks. I've seen that advert previously, so perhaps I've been asleep on the job - it looks like a good starting point and answers a lot of questions.
My priority would be to correct the spelling of 'hazzard' on the switch panel, it must be those 'Yanks' butchering the English language again
You got me on the Hazzard, i missed that, even for Americans that's incorrect spelling, now i will not be able to unsee it! - it looks like a good starting point and answers a lot of questions.My priority would be to correct the spelling of 'hazzard' on the switch panel, it must be those 'Yanks' butchering the English language again
No vents on the bonnet, all the pity, can you retro fit these (not a priority but something for the future...)
I am starting to go with keep the brakes (as long as the calipers are working) and the wheels, i can always upgrade later .
Any mechanics confirm the thinking behind the main servo not working hence no brakes?
TISPKJ said:
I don't need to tell you that the money you can pay for a new crate engine (LS4 LS7 is it ?) and a new 7 speed ZF auto box to match in the states has to be worth a consideration ....... ditto the willwood ? brake kits.
Your in the right place to source those parts at a good price.
haha, yeah i know, although i would consider fitting EFI and buying a stroker kit for the engine it has, however, all that costs lots of cash (with gearbox im guessing close to 20k) and for that i can buy a rather nice R107 Merc 560sl, or YJ jeep fully renovated, or a C4 ZR1 or .... Your in the right place to source those parts at a good price.
Peeping Turtle said:
Any mechanics confirm the thinking behind the main servo not working hence no brakes?
That s not the correct brake servo and reservoir setup - it s not surprising it doesn t work with the slope on the reservoir! A good starting point would be to refit an original configuration and see what else needs doing from there. Cropredy Bridge clearly knew that when selling the car. Edited to add a link to a more original LHD mk2 for brake master cylinder setup reference purposes
https://houtkamp.nl/cars/jensen-interceptor/
Edited by FlyVintage on Thursday 15th January 12:54
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