Replace radiators and pipes?
Replace radiators and pipes?
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Duke Caboom

Original Poster:

2,085 posts

220 months

Thursday
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Our central heating stopped working this morning.

Boiler in utility room, down stairs. Hot water tank and central heating pump upstarts in airing cupboard. Boiler is about 7 years old Viessmann and has been serviced every year. As far as I know everything else is as old as the house - getting on for 40 years old.

4 years ago the heating stopped. we have a repair / callout contract with a local firm who sent teams of people round. They power flushed it and various other stuff before eventually finding a blockage, sucking it out with a vacuum. worked fine until this morning.

Pump showing error code. Boiler stopped.

Man from same firm came round today, did several hours of investigation and spoke to wife. He says there is another blockage. No point in flushing as it didn't work 4 years ago and it will just block again, sooner or later. He says that we'll need all new pipes and radiators. He drained a little out of a radiator and it was full black with bits floating in it.

I'm concerned all the pipework is currently hidden in walls and floors and he was talking about running pips on the outside of walls, hiding them behind curtains and in corners of rooms. Downstairs floors are concrete.

What do you think? Does it need doing? Would we need to replace pipes? Can we have a better solution than hiding them behind curtains? Should I get a second opinion?




Vsix and Vtec

1,257 posts

39 months

Thursday
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I would think you could simply replace the radiators with modern equivalents and flush the pipes with a cleaning fluid.

21TonyK

12,773 posts

230 months

Thursday
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^^^ This is what I did over a couple of years then last year the boiler was replaced.

Ours was 40 years old, no issues.

cliffords

3,378 posts

44 months

Thursday
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I may be facing a similar dilemma soon. The bit that made me respond is solid floors and pipes buried in them . Ours about 45 years old and I fear we are in for trouble.

I have been looking at various ways of hiding pipes , there are some very smart skirting options albeit none of the options are better than in walls.

If you have no leaks then the pipe work can definitely be flushed and cleaned with various chemicals. Most likely with the radiators off and by pass hoses in place.

I think it may need further inspection from a couple of other heating specialists. Hard to find good knowledge and trusted ones but I think you will need to try .

Simpo Two

90,692 posts

286 months

Thursday
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How about one of those magnetic jobbies to catch the crud? Every so often you just open it and shake the bits out.

Duke Caboom

Original Poster:

2,085 posts

220 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
How about one of those magnetic jobbies to catch the crud? Every so often you just open it and shake the bits out.
We've got one off those. Emptied every year. Full of crap when it's done.

fooman

770 posts

85 months

Thursday
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Duke Caboom said:
Simpo Two said:
How about one of those magnetic jobbies to catch the crud? Every so often you just open it and shake the bits out.
We've got one off those. Emptied every year. Full of crap when it's done.
Wow does it all come from internally rusting rads, even with inhibitor?

Sheepshanks

38,741 posts

140 months

Thursday
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Duke Caboom said:
I'm concerned all the pipework is currently hidden in walls and floors and he was talking about running pips on the outside of walls, hiding them behind curtains and in corners of rooms. Downstairs floors are concrete.
Had to do this in daughter's house when it was discovered that the CH was single pipe in steel! Plumbers put new main pipework under the upstairs floorboards then dropped down in 10mm copper tube in plastic channel - in corners behind curtains at front and back of house and down next to a door architrave for a second rad in the living room. From the corners some 10mm pipe along the top of skirting. I suppose if you house was "minimal" you might see it, but her's has so much stuff it's all behind things. Luckily kitchen and sun-room had been extended and that had been done in copper from above so was OK.

It's not "in your face" noticeable and could always be buried if the rooms were ever refurbed.



Pablo_Picasso

44 posts

181 months

Thursday
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40 years ago. So mid 80s

Would this be micro bore pipe!? Or proper 15mm pipe?

If it’s micro bore. I’d be inclined to agree with your plumber.

Duke Caboom

Original Poster:

2,085 posts

220 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Pablo_Picasso said:
40 years ago. So mid 80s

Would this be micro bore pipe!? Or proper 15mm pipe?

If it s micro bore. I d be inclined to agree with your plumber.
It's 15mm

speedyman

1,605 posts

255 months

Thursday
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Can they not just replace the section of pipe that is blocked ?

Gtom

1,792 posts

153 months

Thursday
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I can’t see how the guy can say the power flush didn’t work 4 years ago if it has worked for 4 years.

I would be getting a second opinion and look at doing another flush, maybe by someone who knows what they are doing.

Some radiators might need replacing or maybe just removing and cleaning out.

It might need a new pump too?

JoshSm

2,753 posts

58 months

Thursday
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If it was all properly flushed and then properly inhibited it should have been fine, and it should be fine again.

Though easy to see why someone looking to make money would want to sell you a load of work and do it the easy way too.

The only time you really need to replace is when it's leaking from corroding through, before that it's a matter of cleaning. Power flush might not do much (bit unfriendly to the system too), might need to pull the rads and hose them out, run a milder system cleaner through the pipes for a while, and give the pump a clean too.

Weird that it's blocked that much though to the point of tripping, most heating systems have a bypass loop somewhere. More likely it's the pump choking.

Pumps can be cleaned with citric acid if it needs doing, that would eat any ferrite or copper oxides but pull the pump and soak it, don't be too tempted to run it through the whole system. Citric is a great system cleaner but sometimes the oxides are what's plugging leaks...

Edited by JoshSm on Thursday 8th January 22:55

Mad Maximus

766 posts

24 months

Yesterday (01:11)
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It’s either the money they can smell or they are just trying to play it safe for you.

My opinion get another plumber one you can trust and that will work the problem not throw money at it.

Think of it like a car dealer. At the moment it sounds like you’re having your car repaired at the main Bentley showroom. Why not take it to an independent and save yourself some cash and grief?

Jeremy-75qq8

1,588 posts

113 months

Yesterday (04:14)
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Agree with others. Just properly flush and inhibit.

Yes it is old but if it is not leaking I don't see why you would do something so disruptive.

My mother house had similar issues ( for non related issue ls we gutted it ) but I would think it is just a matter of a long flush and decent chemicals to properly clear it all out.

Belle427

11,109 posts

254 months

Yesterday (05:59)
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Im not a plumber but the crud tends to be held in the bottom of radiators does it not and hard to get out?

GasEngineer

1,969 posts

83 months

Yesterday (06:40)
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Assuming that they did the powerflush properly 4 years ago, then the system would have been squeaky clean at that point.

So the question is what is causing the corrosion in the system. Is it a sealed system or does it have a header tank? Does the system have the correct amount of corrosion inhibitor in it? Have you had a leak which has diluted or flushed out the inhibitor?

Completely repiping seems overkill without determining what is causing the problem. Get another heating engineer round to advise.

megaphone

11,381 posts

272 months

Yesterday (07:07)
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Powerflushing needs to be done properly, often it's not. How many rads do you have? The system could be drained and the rads removed and flushed out in the garden with a hose. Pipes could also be flushed through with a hose, but it can be messy. New rad valves can be fitted at the same time.

As above, you may have a leak, if the system is topping up with fresh water then it will dilute any inhibitor and will cause sludge.

Duke Caboom

Original Poster:

2,085 posts

220 months

Yesterday (19:38)
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Thanks for all the replies.

I should have said that the guy already replaced the pump, for free.