Decals
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Discussion

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Monday 29th December 2025
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Or transfers as I used to know them. I'm building the Billing Boats model of the 'St Roch' but the decal for the ship's name is too big and in the wrong font. I can re-originate it easily enough in Word but how can I get it into decal form?

MG Mark

618 posts

239 months

Monday 29th December 2025
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Suggest type a search in for "waterside decal paper" into Google, lots of sources of A4 sheets, then use an ink jet printer, cut to shape and use. I've not had cause to use it so cant comment on its quality, but would seem to fit the bill

dr_gn

16,700 posts

205 months

Monday 29th December 2025
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MG Mark said:
Suggest type a search in for "waterside decal paper" into Google, lots of sources of A4 sheets, then use an ink jet printer, cut to shape and use. I've not had cause to use it so cant comment on its quality, but would seem to fit the bill
You missed out sealing the ink with clear varnish before cutting to shape and using. If you don’t, the ink will wash straight off the paper. Not sure if laser printer paper has the same issue.

lufbramatt

5,527 posts

155 months

Monday 29th December 2025
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The decal paper works fine, but remember you can’t print white and the inks/toner stays quite translucent so the colours are affected by what colour paint they’re going over. You can get white decal paper but that requires very accurate cutting out depending on the shape of the printed area.

I’ve only used it printed with a laser printer. Have to be careful with what paper feed you use to minimise how many bends it goes round and use settings for thicker paper.

Geoff391

202 posts

79 months

Monday 29th December 2025
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Just been experimenting with this inkjet paper , it works pretty well but if Your decal has any white in it then it will be clear in the decal ( white is not a printed colour ) . Also try and keep the varnish layer thin or it is like putting a layer of jelly on smile

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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Thanks for the replies. It's black text going on a matt grey surface. However wouldn't a layer of varnish be rather visible?

Geoff391

202 posts

79 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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I used Matt varnish , if it is visible then may be you could Matt varnish all the grey bit ?

lufbramatt

5,527 posts

155 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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Microscale liquid decal film might be worth a look for coating the ink.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
quotequote all
Geoff391 said:
I used Matt varnish , if it is visible then may be you could Matt varnish all the grey bit ?
Would prefer not to...!



lufbramatt said:
Microscale liquid decal film might be worth a look for coating the ink.
Thanks. Or is there anywhere I can send the file off to to get printed as a proper decal?

dr_gn

16,700 posts

205 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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Simpo Two said:
Thanks for the replies. It's black text going on a matt grey surface. However wouldn't a layer of varnish be rather visible?
If it’s a Matt surface I wouldn’t risk putting a decal on it without some liquid setting. I use a dot of Klear behind every decal because it pretty much guarantees no silvering (the pale silvery effect that can result from air being trapped behind the visible bits of the decal carrier film).

You’d have to overcoat everything with a varnish anyway for a perfect result, because the reflectivity of the decal will be different to the surrounding paint. I’ve found that - at least with a Matt overcoat - decal thickness disappears completely at any reasonable viewing distance.

Geoff391

202 posts

79 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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Some where like this might do it for you
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4340323398/custom-...

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
quotequote all
dr_gn said:
If it s a Matt surface I wouldn t risk putting a decal on it without some liquid setting. I use a dot of Klear behind every decal because it pretty much guarantees no silvering (the pale silvery effect that can result from air being trapped behind the visible bits of the decal carrier film).

You d have to overcoat everything with a varnish anyway for a perfect result, because the reflectivity of the decal will be different to the surrounding paint. I ve found that - at least with a Matt overcoat - decal thickness disappears completely at any reasonable viewing distance.
Hmm. I suppose I could do just the narrow strip where the name goes.

That aside, if I get some of the waterslide decal paper and print the name exactly as I want onto it, if I'm careful not to get the water on top, would the inkjet letters survive? Or is the decal permeable?

dr_gn

16,700 posts

205 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
Hmm. I suppose I could do just the narrow strip where the name goes.

That aside, if I get some of the waterslide decal paper and print the name exactly as I want onto it, if I'm careful not to get the water on top, would the inkjet letters survive? Or is the decal permeable?
Ashamed to say that after a lot of model building I still never figured out if decal paper is permeable.

The best thing to do is buy some paper and do a test using the exact same finish you have on the model. Ultimately it’s the best way of knowing what’s likely to work.

I’m about to buy some more paper to make unidirectional carbon decals for an F1 car. I’m debating whether to get laser jet stuff, or inkjet. Explaining to everyone at work why their printer has a some strange paper melted to the insides isn’t something I want to do, yet it would seem to be the better option.

Sway

33,154 posts

215 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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Give Skumb4g Kustoms on Facebook a shout. He's based in Japan, so timezone affects response times - but he's actually very responsive and incredibly quick delivery.

Mark V GTD

2,831 posts

145 months

Tuesday 30th December 2025
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When I’ve done it for instructional markings on a full size aircraft I have always used special laser jet decal paper and got the local prontaprint type shop to run them off for me.

Geoff391

202 posts

79 months

Wednesday 31st December 2025
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Another option is “letraset” rub on letters if You can get the right size/font. Not sure if that brand still exists but similar thing here
https://www.mayfairstationers.co.uk/office-supplie...

gruffgriff

2,063 posts

264 months

Thursday 1st January
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Dry "rub-downs" seem the ideal solution, single colour black, no carrier film.
A quick search came up with a couple of uk custom services:

https://drytransfers.co.uk/
4dmodelshop
Belgians

I've no experience of any of the above specifically but regulary used that sort of service back in an old job, so much do we set-up in-house. A bespoke service won't be pennies but an sheet of image repeats will give you spares to test and even double-up on the model.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Friday 2nd January
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Now that's interesting, I didn't know such things were available. I'll give them a call!

dr_gn

16,700 posts

205 months

Friday 2nd January
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Simpo Two said:
Now that's interesting, I didn't know such things were available. I'll give them a call!
The disadvantage is that you'll only get once chance to get them positioned right, and if you don't, you'll be correcting paint.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,698 posts

286 months

Friday 2nd January
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Yep. It's not going to be easy either way, as the letters have to fit in a groove not much higher than they are, and on a curved surface on my lap, not on a nice flat desk.

I just had one of those stupid ideas... print exactly what I want onto normal A4, stick the paper in place on the hull and then paint it grey. Oh hang on...