What do I need to install a work top over washing machines?
Discussion
I want to install a work top over my washing machine and tumble dryer. So I'm looking for some hints or tips. The rear wall is a stud wall. As you can see, this is just a utility room, and the work top install just needs to be functional, so aesthetics are not a priority.

At this stage I think I need:
2 x ends (£45 at Toolstation)
Work top
2" x 2" horizontal battening for the work top, and vertical for the 2 x ends.
Strong adhesive to hold the ends to the floor, rather than screwing into tiles.
Sealer for the rear of the work top.
Right angle brackets to affix the work top to the ends.
Have I missed anything?
At this stage I think I need:
2 x ends (£45 at Toolstation)
Work top
2" x 2" horizontal battening for the work top, and vertical for the 2 x ends.
Strong adhesive to hold the ends to the floor, rather than screwing into tiles.
Sealer for the rear of the work top.
Right angle brackets to affix the work top to the ends.
Have I missed anything?
As a minimum, you would need 2x kitchen end panels, a bit of 2x1 horizontal batten to support the back edge of the worktop, and a worktop.
That would look a little bit basic so if I was doing it myself I’d add some 2x2 PSE to the end panels to add robustness, and a pair of pilasters to the end panels to hide the PSE and make it all look better.
That would look a little bit basic so if I was doing it myself I’d add some 2x2 PSE to the end panels to add robustness, and a pair of pilasters to the end panels to hide the PSE and make it all look better.
six wheels said:
I did this, and used 160mm pullout cupboards for legs.
If you have the width, that would give you somewhere to store washing liquid etc.
If you look at his pic he doesn’t have space for any type of base units at the ends, also if it’s being used to store clutter on he needs either a chrome leg or a base end panel in the middle, a 1210mm opening with no support will mean the worktop will sag in the centre.If you have the width, that would give you somewhere to store washing liquid etc.
I’ve fitted quite a few utilities like this and always go base end panel, 604 opening for appliance, middle base end panel, 604 opening for appliance then the final base end panel.
Continuous 2x1 PSE on the back wall with stretcher plates to fix worktop. With a slight overhang either end using base end panels he needs 1282mm width.
dobly said:
Remember to leave a gap between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop - to facilitate servicing / cleaning - without the gap you will struggle to get them out.
If the end panel + worktop structure was screwed to the rear batten from above then the whole structure could simply be unscrewed and taken away for access.Simpo Two said:
dobly said:
Remember to leave a gap between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop - to facilitate servicing / cleaning - without the gap you will struggle to get them out.
If the end panel + worktop structure was screwed to the rear batten from above then the whole structure could simply be unscrewed and taken away for access.These are good points. Another issue is that the tumble dryer is a condensing dryer which pumps the water out, rather than it collecting in a tray and emptied. Therefore, I have the headache of connecting the washing machine and tumble dryer to the waste pipe, which will be tricky to do concurrently and with a work top restricting access. So the suggestion above would make that easier. I can build it all, then remove it, plumb in the machines and then screw the top back on.
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