What do I need to install a work top over washing machines?
What do I need to install a work top over washing machines?
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Discussion

Howlin Mad Murdoch

Original Poster:

3,864 posts

155 months

Tuesday
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I want to install a work top over my washing machine and tumble dryer. So I'm looking for some hints or tips. The rear wall is a stud wall. As you can see, this is just a utility room, and the work top install just needs to be functional, so aesthetics are not a priority.



At this stage I think I need:

2 x ends (£45 at Toolstation)
Work top
2" x 2" horizontal battening for the work top, and vertical for the 2 x ends.
Strong adhesive to hold the ends to the floor, rather than screwing into tiles.
Sealer for the rear of the work top.
Right angle brackets to affix the work top to the ends.

Have I missed anything?

ikarl

3,851 posts

219 months

Tuesday
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you need to make a work top table

bit of work top - 4x legs

job done

_Jonesy_

42 posts

123 months

Tuesday
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A cheap IKEA desk with the 4 separate adjustable legs could work if you want to keep it simple!

wolfracesonic

8,596 posts

147 months

Tuesday
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For the front two legs look at ‘wardrobe rail’ in ToolStation, cheap and simple. You can get posher legs if you’re so inclined.

Bill

56,647 posts

275 months

Tuesday
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ikarl said:
you need to make a work top table

bit of work top - 4x legs

job done
2 legs and a batten at the back would be more stable.

ikarl

3,851 posts

219 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
Bill said:
ikarl said:
you need to make a work top table

bit of work top - 4x legs

job done
2 legs and a batten at the back would be more stable.
actually, yes, that would be a much better option

PhilboSE

5,567 posts

246 months

Tuesday
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As a minimum, you would need 2x kitchen end panels, a bit of 2x1 horizontal batten to support the back edge of the worktop, and a worktop.

That would look a little bit basic so if I was doing it myself I’d add some 2x2 PSE to the end panels to add robustness, and a pair of pilasters to the end panels to hide the PSE and make it all look better.

dobly

1,514 posts

179 months

Wednesday
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Remember to leave a gap between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop - to facilitate servicing / cleaning - without the gap you will struggle to get them out.

Belle427

11,065 posts

253 months

Wednesday
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Don`t overthink it, 2 end panels or legs as suggested and a decent piece of timber along the back.

six wheels

365 posts

155 months

Wednesday
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I did this, and used 160mm pullout cupboards for legs.

If you have the width, that would give you somewhere to store washing liquid etc.

Promised Land

5,200 posts

229 months

Wednesday
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six wheels said:
I did this, and used 160mm pullout cupboards for legs.

If you have the width, that would give you somewhere to store washing liquid etc.
If you look at his pic he doesn’t have space for any type of base units at the ends, also if it’s being used to store clutter on he needs either a chrome leg or a base end panel in the middle, a 1210mm opening with no support will mean the worktop will sag in the centre.

I’ve fitted quite a few utilities like this and always go base end panel, 604 opening for appliance, middle base end panel, 604 opening for appliance then the final base end panel.

Continuous 2x1 PSE on the back wall with stretcher plates to fix worktop. With a slight overhang either end using base end panels he needs 1282mm width.

Simpo Two

90,405 posts

285 months

Wednesday
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dobly said:
Remember to leave a gap between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop - to facilitate servicing / cleaning - without the gap you will struggle to get them out.
If the end panel + worktop structure was screwed to the rear batten from above then the whole structure could simply be unscrewed and taken away for access.

Howlin Mad Murdoch

Original Poster:

3,864 posts

155 months

Wednesday
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
dobly said:
Remember to leave a gap between the top of the appliances and the bottom of the worktop - to facilitate servicing / cleaning - without the gap you will struggle to get them out.
If the end panel + worktop structure was screwed to the rear batten from above then the whole structure could simply be unscrewed and taken away for access.
OP here.

These are good points. Another issue is that the tumble dryer is a condensing dryer which pumps the water out, rather than it collecting in a tray and emptied. Therefore, I have the headache of connecting the washing machine and tumble dryer to the waste pipe, which will be tricky to do concurrently and with a work top restricting access. So the suggestion above would make that easier. I can build it all, then remove it, plumb in the machines and then screw the top back on.

reggie747

252 posts

147 months

Yesterday (20:13)
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I'd say that Shark need its nappy changing !!

reggie747

252 posts

147 months

Yesterday (20:34)
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I'd say that Shark need its nappy changing !!