Permatex assembly lube
Discussion
I just started doing my final engine assembly of my Rover V8 build to go in a TVR. I trial built it in the summer, all fine, clearances checked out, turned over nicely. Went away for balancing (the shop had it 3 months).
I put the crank back in this weekend, and it is stiff to turn over. I used Permatex Assembly lube. If I break the initial friction, I can only just turn it over on the snout with my wrist. Apart from being stiff, it is smooth with no tight spots.
I'm fairly certain it is because the lube is extremely viscous and tacky in the cold. Where it has dribbled out, it is like runs in tacky paint, it is so sticky. I stuck an electric heater under it for a few hours at the weekend, and that did seem to free it up a bit, though I don't think it raised the temperature in my garage significantly. My smallest torque wrench goes down to 19NM, and that does overcome the static friction and turn it.
Does anyone else have experience of this assembly lube and observed the same in the cold, before I strip it back down to recheck things and try with ordinary oil?
I put the crank back in this weekend, and it is stiff to turn over. I used Permatex Assembly lube. If I break the initial friction, I can only just turn it over on the snout with my wrist. Apart from being stiff, it is smooth with no tight spots.
I'm fairly certain it is because the lube is extremely viscous and tacky in the cold. Where it has dribbled out, it is like runs in tacky paint, it is so sticky. I stuck an electric heater under it for a few hours at the weekend, and that did seem to free it up a bit, though I don't think it raised the temperature in my garage significantly. My smallest torque wrench goes down to 19NM, and that does overcome the static friction and turn it.
Does anyone else have experience of this assembly lube and observed the same in the cold, before I strip it back down to recheck things and try with ordinary oil?
Are you saying the crank only, and nothing else ? and it's tight to turn ?
A crank torqued into a bare block, correct bearings etc etc, you should easily be able to turn it by hand. No tools.
I had a 4.6 RV8 block once that literally needed a 2ft bar to turn when torqued up with a new crank, the block itself was buckled stupid somehow. ( it also had a split liner )
That wasn't a great 2nd hand purchase to build with lol.
eg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RutqkfLYQog
A crank torqued into a bare block, correct bearings etc etc, you should easily be able to turn it by hand. No tools.
I had a 4.6 RV8 block once that literally needed a 2ft bar to turn when torqued up with a new crank, the block itself was buckled stupid somehow. ( it also had a split liner )
That wasn't a great 2nd hand purchase to build with lol.
eg
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RutqkfLYQog
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