E13 Torx Bolt
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Discussion

s94wht

Original Poster:

2,187 posts

77 months

Yesterday (13:06)
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I have an E13 Torx bolt that I can't get off my Porsche 997 C2S. The location of the bolt means it's impossible to get a socket on, even if I had the right socket. The bolt has started to round off through a couple of attempts with roughly the right size spanner, so I don't really want to try that any more! Heat, I haven't tried too much, but I can't get a grip on the damn thing regardless. Anyone got any tips/ideas/suggestions? I'll post a picture of the location later.

If not, I'll just have to cut it off and replace it later. I can't even figure out what the hell the point of the damn thing is.

ChocolateFrog

33,155 posts

191 months

CoolC

4,361 posts

232 months

Yesterday (13:09)
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Would an E Torx Spanner get in there?

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/spanner...

E-bmw

11,538 posts

170 months

Yesterday (14:16)
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s94wht said:
The bolt has started to round off through a couple of attempts with roughly the right size spanner,
Obviously, that is the root of the problem, if you don't have the right tool don't attempt it, Torx are typically quite a high torque fitting and using the wrong tool only applies torque through a much smaller contact area.

The best solution is as those have said above, get the correct tool on it & hope it hasn't been too badly damaged.

s94wht

Original Poster:

2,187 posts

77 months

Yesterday (14:39)
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ChocolateFrog said:
CoolC said:
Would an E Torx Spanner get in there?

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/spanner...
Neither of those sets have the right size. I believe a spanner would get in there but I'm not convinced an E13 spanner exists in this universe

TwinKam

3,372 posts

113 months

Yesterday (17:11)
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I've never come across an E13 in my experience, but I'm happy to be proven wrong.
What makes you think it is E13, is it referred to as such in any manual or bulletin? Or are you measuring it in some way and finding it falls between E12 & E14?
I would recommend trying the E torx ring spanners to gauge it (I often do this as I'm hopeless at second guessing both male & female torx sizes).




Edited by TwinKam on Wednesday 29th October 17:18

Pica-Pica

15,563 posts

102 months

Yesterday (17:48)
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Mole wrench?

LordLoveLength

2,210 posts

148 months

Yesterday (18:17)
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TwinKam said:
I've never come across an E13 in my experience, but I'm happy to be proven wrong.
What makes you think it is E13, is it referred to as such in any manual or bulletin? Or are you measuring it in some way and finding it falls between E12 & E14?
I would recommend trying the E torx ring spanners to gauge it (I often do this as I'm hopeless at second guessing both male & female torx sizes).




Edited by TwinKam on Wednesday 29th October 17:18
Are you sure it isn’t a ribe bit, which are available in M13?

s94wht

Original Poster:

2,187 posts

77 months

Yesterday (18:25)
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Here are the pictures.

As for sizing, it's somewhere between 8 and 9mm in diameter. I believe it to be E13 but I could be wrong on that. Looks to me like M13 would be about a 16mm head which is definitely not the case

A guy in the states doing the same job couldn't find the correct wrench either. But he reckoned he used a 10mm box spanner... No chance of that here.

Haven't ever been able to find definitive info on what the actual size is, but haven't checked parts diagrams yet

M138

787 posts

9 months

Yesterday (18:37)
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Plenty of Plusgas, and a tap on the top with a hammer and centre punch to try and help to break the seal. My mate working on a V8 Cayenne at the moment thinks they must’ve used Loctite (or similar) on the bolts on his engine.
If all else fails you may be able to tap it round with a slotted screwdriver and a hammer, but it’s the last resort.
Will there be enough clearance from the plate above still on to remove that bolt?

s94wht

Original Poster:

2,187 posts

77 months

Yesterday (18:45)
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M138 said:
Plenty of Plusgas, and a tap on the top with a hammer and centre punch to try and help to break the seal. My mate working on a V8 Cayenne at the moment thinks they must ve used Loctite (or similar) on the bolts on his engine.
If all else fails you may be able to tap it round with a slotted screwdriver and a hammer, but it s the last resort.
Will there be enough clearance from the plate above still on to remove that bolt?
I'm not intending to remove it completely, just enough to be able to pull the plate forward to give enough room to drop the water pump out. It's a good point though

paul_c123

1,304 posts

11 months

Yesterday (20:04)
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Unbolt the thing in front to gain access, then use a socket on it. It will be far better than any kind of spanner jammed in there, which probably won't get around all sides and will either damage the head, or snap it off.

Pica-Pica

15,563 posts

102 months

Yesterday (20:54)
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From the pictures it looks like a mole wrench will easily lock onto that.

s94wht

Original Poster:

2,187 posts

77 months

Yesterday (22:36)
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Pica-Pica said:
From the pictures it looks like a mole wrench will easily lock onto that.
My neighbour lent me some and they're too wide to get in behind the plate. Not sure of the exact dimensions of the gap but I assume the mole grips come in different shaped "noses". I've spent enough on random tools at this point though so I want to be triple sure before buying another on the off chance it will work!

I think removing the plate on the front might be the way, but unfortunately as you can see, those are rusted to hell as well.

TwinKam

3,372 posts

113 months

Yesterday (23:35)
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Looks like it was designed by someone at VAG, they love teasing with a half-occluded bolt;
"To remove part A, firstly remove part Y."
"To remove part Y, firstly remove part N."
"To remove part N, firstly....." ... one of the reasons I don't let my customers buy Volkswagens etc.
Back to your bolt, OP, yes, firstly remove part A... I think you'll find those are E10.

paul_c123

1,304 posts

11 months

TwinKam said:
Looks like it was designed by someone at VAG, they love teasing with a half-occluded bolt;
"To remove part A, firstly remove part Y."
"To remove part Y, firstly remove part N."
"To remove part N, firstly....." ... one of the reasons I don't let my customers buy Volkswagens etc.
Back to your bolt, OP, yes, firstly remove part A... I think you'll find those are E10.
To be fair, a lot of cars are like that these days, VAG are bad but others aren't far behind. For example on a Volvo, to remove the fuel rail you need to remove a boost pipe; to remove the boost pipe, you need to remove 3 engine mounts and tilt the engine forwards quite a bit....

brownspeed

1,000 posts

149 months

Can you cut a small section off the overlapping plate with a dremel? to give better access to get a socket or spanner on the bolt head
where on the 997 IS that? (I have one but don't recognise the view. hopefully I won't need to either!)

TarquinMX5

2,295 posts

98 months

I read a thread somewhere where a chap was asking about an E13 wrench for the exhaust tips on his 997 as he couldn't find one. It transpired that it was an E12.