Lotus Elise s2 SC
Discussion
My main advice would be NOT to put a car cover on the car as the paint and body often suffers from osmosis and any moisture trapped is the biggest culprit. It might seem extreme but it really can wreck the paint on these.
If only doing occasional low miles per year resist the urge to skip annual services, Elise fans are rightfully fussy with so much choice out there and one that is well maintained will always be at the top of a list.
If only doing occasional low miles per year resist the urge to skip annual services, Elise fans are rightfully fussy with so much choice out there and one that is well maintained will always be at the top of a list.
That looks fabulous!
Be prepared for niggling issues and some annoyingly expensive ones like LED rear lights failing.
Once you’ve accepted that any Elise is a project to one degree or another it frees your mind to really enjoy the amazing driving experience.
I’ve had two, covering 10 years and 40k miles and will be back in another at some point, nothing else compares!
Be prepared for niggling issues and some annoyingly expensive ones like LED rear lights failing.
Once you’ve accepted that any Elise is a project to one degree or another it frees your mind to really enjoy the amazing driving experience.
I’ve had two, covering 10 years and 40k miles and will be back in another at some point, nothing else compares!
Nice looking car. With the age of these now most jobs should have been done. The following relate to my 111r but probably the same in a later SC, in no particular order:
OEM rad (plasitc sides) and heater resistor pack both prone to failure and require clam off. So if they haven't been done already factor in the cost and do both at the same time.
The connector for the rad fan can come loose and prevent your fan from kicking in at around 100˚C. You can find it under the passenger side panel (where the bonnet should be) and secure with cable ties.
Clips on front indicators can break leaving the unit hanging out. There are solutions out there using 3d printed parts or bungee.
One screw holds each wing mirror on and the plastic spigot for the screw can snap. I solved this on mine by swapping the wing mirrors over (they're exactly the same) but can only do that once.
Toe links can break so periodically check they still have some movement in them (I get this checked during the annual service).
Waist seals have a steel strip in them which corrodes sooner or later making them look ugly and allowing water inside the door. Easy to fix but looking at £400 a side.
Headlight bulb change requires front wheel off so you'll need a trolley jack if you haven't got one.
Look up the correct jacking procedure and make sure it's followed when you get tyres changed etc. Wrong approach can damage under trays and clam. Even though the 'A' points look like they're towards the back of the car they're at the centre of gravity, so if you lift using 'A' and 'B' points then take the front wheels off the car can flip off the back of the lift.
To lift correctly the rear under tray needs to be removed to access 'C' and 'D' points. If I'm not at a specialist I don't trust them to either know this or be arsed to do it.
It's worth getting the geometry set up to your taste, small changes can really affect the way the car feels.
OEM rad (plasitc sides) and heater resistor pack both prone to failure and require clam off. So if they haven't been done already factor in the cost and do both at the same time.
The connector for the rad fan can come loose and prevent your fan from kicking in at around 100˚C. You can find it under the passenger side panel (where the bonnet should be) and secure with cable ties.
Clips on front indicators can break leaving the unit hanging out. There are solutions out there using 3d printed parts or bungee.
One screw holds each wing mirror on and the plastic spigot for the screw can snap. I solved this on mine by swapping the wing mirrors over (they're exactly the same) but can only do that once.
Toe links can break so periodically check they still have some movement in them (I get this checked during the annual service).
Waist seals have a steel strip in them which corrodes sooner or later making them look ugly and allowing water inside the door. Easy to fix but looking at £400 a side.
Headlight bulb change requires front wheel off so you'll need a trolley jack if you haven't got one.
Look up the correct jacking procedure and make sure it's followed when you get tyres changed etc. Wrong approach can damage under trays and clam. Even though the 'A' points look like they're towards the back of the car they're at the centre of gravity, so if you lift using 'A' and 'B' points then take the front wheels off the car can flip off the back of the lift.
To lift correctly the rear under tray needs to be removed to access 'C' and 'D' points. If I'm not at a specialist I don't trust them to either know this or be arsed to do it.
It's worth getting the geometry set up to your taste, small changes can really affect the way the car feels.
APC1 said:
My main advice would be NOT to put a car cover on the car as the paint and body often suffers from osmosis and any moisture trapped is the biggest culprit. It might seem extreme but it really can wreck the paint on these.
If only doing occasional low miles per year resist the urge to skip annual services, Elise fans are rightfully fussy with so much choice out there and one that is well maintained will always be at the top of a list.
If garage space is available, that's better. If not, a carcoon is an option.If only doing occasional low miles per year resist the urge to skip annual services, Elise fans are rightfully fussy with so much choice out there and one that is well maintained will always be at the top of a list.
Fab car. I have had my 09 Elise SC since 09!
Mine lived out for the first 15 years of it's life but a recent house move finally gave me the garage I wanted so I bought one of these INDOOR covers.
This is fantastic, fits perfectly, stretchy and very soft. The key thing to remember with it is it's ONLY used after washing my car and letting it dry thoroughly. At the moment my cover isn't on because even though the car is clean (ish), it has been driven since washing so putting a cover on risks dragging dirt etc over the paint.
Also, I never put the handbrake on when it is in the garage or parked for more than a few hours. The rear pads do stick and can be a pain to unstick.
I get mine serviced every year at my local Lotus dealership. Having 16 stamps in the service book all from Lotus must be a good thing but it is also not much more expensive than going independent.
Don't let it sit for months without use. I make sure mine gets a run out weekly, even if it is just a 10 mile spin to get it all warmed up.
Other than that, mine has been fab. I have kept it standard apart from the Ally Radiator.
Enjoy
Brian
https://www.cabriosupply.co.uk/lotus-elise-indoor-...
Mine lived out for the first 15 years of it's life but a recent house move finally gave me the garage I wanted so I bought one of these INDOOR covers.
This is fantastic, fits perfectly, stretchy and very soft. The key thing to remember with it is it's ONLY used after washing my car and letting it dry thoroughly. At the moment my cover isn't on because even though the car is clean (ish), it has been driven since washing so putting a cover on risks dragging dirt etc over the paint.
Also, I never put the handbrake on when it is in the garage or parked for more than a few hours. The rear pads do stick and can be a pain to unstick.
I get mine serviced every year at my local Lotus dealership. Having 16 stamps in the service book all from Lotus must be a good thing but it is also not much more expensive than going independent.
Don't let it sit for months without use. I make sure mine gets a run out weekly, even if it is just a 10 mile spin to get it all warmed up.
Other than that, mine has been fab. I have kept it standard apart from the Ally Radiator.
Enjoy
Brian
https://www.cabriosupply.co.uk/lotus-elise-indoor-...
Edited by brian_H on Monday 6th October 10:47
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