Water pump an issue? Jeep Compass 2011 2.2crd 2011
Water pump an issue? Jeep Compass 2011 2.2crd 2011
Author
Discussion

Mikesalem

Original Poster:

65 posts

31 months

Hi lovely people, after more advice on my Jeep Compass that is about to do 3000 miles.

The cabin heater has stopped giving out hot air, it gives a little warm air for a moment when the dial goes up, but is straight back to cold and stays cold.

The car seems to be getting through water in the cooling system but not sure how much yet as it has been with a garage for 2 weeks. They have said the water pump needs replacing but the part is way over £600 as a sealed unit and I cant do that after getting everything else ready unfortunately.

I had read that it could be a clogged pipe going from the engine bay to the heater and when checking the bleed nipple on said pipe, there doesn't appear to be water in the cabin heating system. When I get the car back tomorrow I will check for air in the pipes, not sure how yet though.

I am assuming if there is not enough water in the cooling system, then that could be why there seems to be none in the cabin heater system?

Anything I can check to narrow down the issue and hopefully not have to replace the water pump?

Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated :-)


paul_c123

1,201 posts

11 months

Is the cooling system properly bled?

Mikesalem

Original Poster:

65 posts

31 months

paul_c123 said:
Is the cooling system properly bled?
Not sure so will have to try that next when i get the car back

E-bmw

11,397 posts

170 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
paul_c123 said:
Is the cooling system properly bled?
^^^ Wot 'e said.

That would be my guess also, at least for a free first try.

Top up the coolant expansion tank, leave the cap off, get the engine warm & with the heater on full try your bleed point then.

Obviously beware of hot water and keep a top-up bottle handy if there is a big gulp of water into the system if an air lock goes.

ETA.
If you can try it with the front of the car up a slope a bit, it can help put a little more pressure into the rear of the system where the heater matrix pipes are.

Edited by E-bmw on Tuesday 30th September 07:42

530dTPhil

1,399 posts

236 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
Mikesalem said:
The car seems to be getting through water in the cooling system but not sure how much yet as it has been with a garage for 2 weeks.
In my experience, this is the cause of your cabin heater not working. The system needs to be full of water and correctly bled.

The garage said that the pump needs to be replaced. Presumably they can either see that it's leaking water and/or the bearings have failed. I suggest that you find out the reason for the pump replacement.

If it's 'getting through water' the problem will recur. You need to find the leak. It could be the radiator, hoses, water pump, head gasket etc.


Edited by 530dTPhil on Tuesday 30th September 09:06

E-bmw

11,397 posts

170 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
530dTPhil said:
Mikesalem said:
The car seems to be getting through water in the cooling system but not sure how much yet as it has been with a garage for 2 weeks.
In my experience, this is the cause of your cabin heater not working. The system needs to be full of water and correctly bled.

The garage said that the pump needs to be replaced. Presumably they can either see that it's leaking water and/or the bearings have failed. I suggest that you find out the reason for the pump replacement.

If it's 'getting through water' the problem will recur. You need to find the leak. It could be the radiator, hoses, water pump, head gasket etc.
Of course, this is the completely correct answer if the source of the water use is the pump.

Mikesalem

Original Poster:

65 posts

31 months

Yesterday (11:15)
quotequote all
E-bmw said:
^^^ Wot 'e said.

That would be my guess also, at least for a free first try.

Top up the coolant expansion tank, leave the cap off, get the engine warm & with the heater on full try your bleed point then.

Obviously beware of hot water and keep a top-up bottle handy if there is a big gulp of water into the system if an air lock goes.

ETA.
If you can try it with the front of the car up a slope a bit, it can help put a little more pressure into the rear of the system where the heater matrix pipes are.

Edited by E-bmw on Tuesday 30th September 07:42
Thank you and yes as soon as I get the car back I will try this first.

Mikesalem

Original Poster:

65 posts

31 months

Yesterday (11:17)
quotequote all
530dTPhil said:
In my experience, this is the cause of your cabin heater not working. The system needs to be full of water and correctly bled.

The garage said that the pump needs to be replaced. Presumably they can either see that it's leaking water and/or the bearings have failed. I suggest that you find out the reason for the pump replacement.

If it's 'getting through water' the problem will recur. You need to find the leak. It could be the radiator, hoses, water pump, head gasket etc.


Edited by 530dTPhil on Tuesday 30th September 09:06
I have been watching and not seen any water leaking, so I am leaning towards air as the system would have been filled just before I bought the car and I read that air is common in these, so will try the proper fill and bleed first. Thank you

GreenV8S

30,965 posts

302 months

Yesterday (11:53)
quotequote all
Mikesalem said:
not seen any water leaking
It's hard to get a sense of somebody's level of experience from a short thread like this, but I wonder how much experience you have of detecting and tracing coolant leaks. It's pretty common for a slow leak to occur when the engine is hot and under pressure, which allows the coolant to evaporate rather than drip to the ground. The only external symptom may be staining around the leak, and if that's out of sight it can be very difficult to spot. The best way to check whether your engine is losing coolant is to monitor the coolant level and see whether it is going down.

Mikesalem

Original Poster:

65 posts

31 months

Yesterday (12:02)
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
It's hard to get a sense of somebody's level of experience from a short thread like this, but I wonder how much experience you have of detecting and tracing coolant leaks. It's pretty common for a slow leak to occur when the engine is hot and under pressure, which allows the coolant to evaporate rather than drip to the ground. The only external symptom may be staining around the leak, and if that's out of sight it can be very difficult to spot. The best way to check whether your engine is losing coolant is to monitor the coolant level and see whether it is going down.
Not very experienced no. I will top up, bleed then monitor first. If still going down I will have a good search around for staining etc, its clean and dry atm. Thank you

530dTPhil

1,399 posts

236 months

Yesterday (18:12)
quotequote all
Mikesalem said:
Not very experienced no. I will top up, bleed then monitor first. If still going down I will have a good search around for staining etc, its clean and dry atm. Thank you
I suggest that you still ask the garage why the water pump was in need of replacement.