Underbody protection for winter driving
Discussion
I took delivery of my new 718 Cayman back in March this year with the express intention of keeping it very long term and using it as my daily driver. So far, so good, it's bloody marvellous and everything I hoped it would be. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to condition, so it's ceramic coated, has RGS front mesh radiator grills and subtle arch guards to protect from stone chips, which I designed, 3d printed and fitted as I couldn't find anything up to the right standards.
With autumn and winter fast approaching, thoughts are turning to keeping underneath in good order. Whilst I won't drive it when the roads are heavily salted, it will get used throughout the winter months, so it needs protecting. It's booked in to my go-to Porsche Indy for a thorough job on the ramp, with the undertrays removed etc. at the end of October but I'm open to what we use to protect it.
I've had good results with ACF50 in the past on my Caterham, but interested to hear about any other experiences eg Lanoguard or any other treatments that would do the job. I'm not necessarily looking for a once only solution, doing it every year in the autumn would be fine if that's what's required.
With autumn and winter fast approaching, thoughts are turning to keeping underneath in good order. Whilst I won't drive it when the roads are heavily salted, it will get used throughout the winter months, so it needs protecting. It's booked in to my go-to Porsche Indy for a thorough job on the ramp, with the undertrays removed etc. at the end of October but I'm open to what we use to protect it.
I've had good results with ACF50 in the past on my Caterham, but interested to hear about any other experiences eg Lanoguard or any other treatments that would do the job. I'm not necessarily looking for a once only solution, doing it every year in the autumn would be fine if that's what's required.
Edited by AndrewGP on Wednesday 17th September 17:12
My mate has just done his car with Lanoguard and he's very impressed although he did say it smells a bit, he also considered Bilt Hamber underbody protection which apparently gets good reviews too.
I am a bit old school, I like Waxoyl its proven and very easy to apply (thin down with white spirit and warm it up in a bucket of hot water) buy a proper air application tool and its not even very messy to apply with the correct kit. Check every year and apply more if required.
When I bought my GR-Yaris Waxoyl was what I used.
I am a bit old school, I like Waxoyl its proven and very easy to apply (thin down with white spirit and warm it up in a bucket of hot water) buy a proper air application tool and its not even very messy to apply with the correct kit. Check every year and apply more if required.
When I bought my GR-Yaris Waxoyl was what I used.
I think putting the effort in to use one of the options is the main thing. I’ve had lanoguard under my 911 as everything is so exposed. It seems to still look good under there, whereas mechanics always seem to complain that waxoyl looks black and gunky. Maybe that’s just Defenders who’s owners have the rust covered up with a thick layer of the stuff?
Billy_Whizzzz said:
Tell me about it, viewed a few 997 GT3s recently-extremely crusty underneath-OK, they're now approaching 20 years old but the rot so to speak, sets in early.I think a lot of problems with Porsche is the cheap bolts and fastenings they use-before protection I'd be wanting to swap some of those out first if I was really going to be keeping long term.
Thanks all for the suggestions, it’s probably not worth over thinking it, as all of them sound like they’ll do the job.
I think a lot of problems with Porsche is the cheap bolts and fastenings they use-before protection I'd be wanting to swap some of those out first if I was really going to be keeping long term.OCD aside, I’d agree it’s definitely worth doing, my 987.2 had been protected underneath and all the fastenings and fixings were easy to work on when required. My 981 on the other hand had had nothing and all the clamps and bolts were rusty and several had to be cut off with an angle grinder.
PRO5T said:
Billy_Whizzzz said:
Tell me about it, viewed a few 997 GT3s recently-extremely crusty underneath-OK, they're now approaching 20 years old but the rot so to speak, sets in early.I think a lot of problems with Porsche is the cheap bolts and fastenings they use-before protection I'd be wanting to swap some of those out first if I was really going to be keeping long term.
I'd love some advice on protecting my 981! I'm hoping to drive it more throughout the winter, but I'm a bit hesitant because of the salt and weather.
What are your thoughts on taking it to a specialist? I've heard good things about dry ice cleaning there's a place in the Midlands that does it, Alternatively a well-known independent Porsche specialist (based in a farm) that offers underbody protection. Any recommendations or experiences with these?
What are your thoughts on taking it to a specialist? I've heard good things about dry ice cleaning there's a place in the Midlands that does it, Alternatively a well-known independent Porsche specialist (based in a farm) that offers underbody protection. Any recommendations or experiences with these?
Have done this to my 997 which is now 17 years old and still immaculate underneath.
Dynax UC (almost clear) applied in 2-3 fine coats is by far the best out there in my experience. Google salt bath tests to see how it compares to the likes of Lanoguard. And it doesn't cake the car in gunk.
One thing I would say is that when I removed the under trays and wheel arch guards in my car it was already 12 years old and used year round, and the only rusty bits were fixings and 2 cross bars at the back. However it was clear that there are obvious mud traps (eg the inside of the lips of the wheel arches and the panel in the rear wheel arch just in front of the tyre). Indeed quite a few 997s which have not had treatment / regularly cleaning here are already showing signs of corrosion around wheel arch lips and it is very expensive to fix.
Coil springs are another area worth close attention. And if you are into aesthetics then spray the damper casings too (Dynax will not cover tell tale signs of leaks).
Bottom line? Remove wheel arch liners and Dynax everywhere, along with seams under sills, but probably no need to remove all the belly pans - my car still looked new under there at 12 years old.Worth spraying coolant pipe connectors too (not sure of the set up in your car) but with ACF50 which is more heat tolerant (although it doesn't last as long as Dynax).
Dynax UC (almost clear) applied in 2-3 fine coats is by far the best out there in my experience. Google salt bath tests to see how it compares to the likes of Lanoguard. And it doesn't cake the car in gunk.
One thing I would say is that when I removed the under trays and wheel arch guards in my car it was already 12 years old and used year round, and the only rusty bits were fixings and 2 cross bars at the back. However it was clear that there are obvious mud traps (eg the inside of the lips of the wheel arches and the panel in the rear wheel arch just in front of the tyre). Indeed quite a few 997s which have not had treatment / regularly cleaning here are already showing signs of corrosion around wheel arch lips and it is very expensive to fix.
Coil springs are another area worth close attention. And if you are into aesthetics then spray the damper casings too (Dynax will not cover tell tale signs of leaks).
Bottom line? Remove wheel arch liners and Dynax everywhere, along with seams under sills, but probably no need to remove all the belly pans - my car still looked new under there at 12 years old.Worth spraying coolant pipe connectors too (not sure of the set up in your car) but with ACF50 which is more heat tolerant (although it doesn't last as long as Dynax).
Edited by Discombobulate on Thursday 18th September 16:46
Edited by Discombobulate on Thursday 18th September 16:48
Just to say that the Dynax UC is a Bilt Hamber product. I have used this on a couple of cars ... Once cleaned and dried, a single large aerosol can goes a long way ... it double coated my car with two thin coatings which once dried was clear and almost invisible.
It can easily be cleaned off if required but and the finish from new once dry is of a thin high temperature wax type coating which does not pick up the debris that wax oil type coatings do ... I don't know how this compares to Lanoguard which has also be recommended ...
It can easily be cleaned off if required but and the finish from new once dry is of a thin high temperature wax type coating which does not pick up the debris that wax oil type coatings do ... I don't know how this compares to Lanoguard which has also be recommended ...
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff