Talk to me about Full Sus MTB's
Discussion
Having not had a mountain bike for a number of years, I've had a bit of a crazy thought about trying to get back into it. The last one I had was a Voodoo Hoodoo bought from Halfords about 20 years ago, and it got a bit of punishment in the local area on trails and tracks.
I've always fancied a full suspension MTB but looking on Pinkbike, it's a bit of a minefield in terms of what's good or not, what I need, and how much to spend.
I think i've narrowed it down:
- Trail or Enduro bike with a good amount of travel front and rear.
- 2020 or newer - i'd like to be able to upgrade it as and when the need arises.
- Dropper post.
- No preference over materials to be honest, or wheel size but would like 27.5 or 29.
- Up to £2k.
- Not an ebike.
My initial thought was a 2020-ish Santa Cruz Bronson but they're coming in slightly more.
Any suggestions on where I should start?
Thanks all
I've always fancied a full suspension MTB but looking on Pinkbike, it's a bit of a minefield in terms of what's good or not, what I need, and how much to spend.
I think i've narrowed it down:
- Trail or Enduro bike with a good amount of travel front and rear.
- 2020 or newer - i'd like to be able to upgrade it as and when the need arises.
- Dropper post.
- No preference over materials to be honest, or wheel size but would like 27.5 or 29.
- Up to £2k.
- Not an ebike.
My initial thought was a 2020-ish Santa Cruz Bronson but they're coming in slightly more.
Any suggestions on where I should start?
Thanks all
If you've been away from MTBing for years I'd say forget an enduro bike at this stage, a modern trail bike in the 120-150mm travel range will be more than capable enough for what you are likely to be doing (more capable than most enduro bikes from 5-10 years ago) and much more manageable.
Enduro bikes only really come into their own on properly steep technical and/or high speed downhill trails, and the rest of the time tend to just be heavier and less agile and responsive (and less fun) than a trailbike. Many of them also require a particular and very aggressive riding style loading the front end heavily to get the best of them, which feels quite foreign to someone accustomed to older MTB geometry who will favour a more rearward position.
Trail bikes are generally much more balanced all-rounders, a more neutral blend of pedalling efficiency, forgiving playful handling and downhill capability.
You don't need to jump right to a high end bike either, even mid-range components now are really good. Carbon fibre frames are nice but don't write off aluminium, the weight difference often isn't as much as you might think and aluminium is generally more tolerant of impact damage from crashes etc.
I'd suggest looking at bikes like Giant Trance or Trance X, Trek Fuel, Specialized Stumpjumper, Canyon Spectral... there are plenty of others in that category too but those are all good options to start looking. Giant and Canyon are hard to beat in value for money terms.
Wheel size is mostly personal taste but 29" is most common (and I prefer it). In simple terms 29" is a little slower accelerating but carries momentum more easily once up to speed, rolls over bumps and edges more easily and is generally faster overall. But some people find 27.5" more agile, especially in the air for people that like doing big jumps and tricks. Personally I find cornering agility is more dependent on frame geometry and how a bike suits the rider than wheel size.
29" is most common now but still a fair number of 27.5" options around, or 'mullet' which is 29" front 27.5" rear (business up front, party at the back). 26" is basically dead and gone except for kids bikes.
Enduro bikes only really come into their own on properly steep technical and/or high speed downhill trails, and the rest of the time tend to just be heavier and less agile and responsive (and less fun) than a trailbike. Many of them also require a particular and very aggressive riding style loading the front end heavily to get the best of them, which feels quite foreign to someone accustomed to older MTB geometry who will favour a more rearward position.
Trail bikes are generally much more balanced all-rounders, a more neutral blend of pedalling efficiency, forgiving playful handling and downhill capability.
You don't need to jump right to a high end bike either, even mid-range components now are really good. Carbon fibre frames are nice but don't write off aluminium, the weight difference often isn't as much as you might think and aluminium is generally more tolerant of impact damage from crashes etc.
I'd suggest looking at bikes like Giant Trance or Trance X, Trek Fuel, Specialized Stumpjumper, Canyon Spectral... there are plenty of others in that category too but those are all good options to start looking. Giant and Canyon are hard to beat in value for money terms.
Wheel size is mostly personal taste but 29" is most common (and I prefer it). In simple terms 29" is a little slower accelerating but carries momentum more easily once up to speed, rolls over bumps and edges more easily and is generally faster overall. But some people find 27.5" more agile, especially in the air for people that like doing big jumps and tricks. Personally I find cornering agility is more dependent on frame geometry and how a bike suits the rider than wheel size.
29" is most common now but still a fair number of 27.5" options around, or 'mullet' which is 29" front 27.5" rear (business up front, party at the back). 26" is basically dead and gone except for kids bikes.
Edited by GravelBen on Friday 5th September 12:17
As above, what sort of riding to you plan to do? Pedal all days covering lots of distance? Just shutting up and down to do jump lines? Hacking around smallish woods with not much stopping? Or a bit of everything?
Have a look at the line up of transitions to get a idea of the jumps in travel and geometry between disciplines
Have a look at the line up of transitions to get a idea of the jumps in travel and geometry between disciplines
Enduro bikes are far more capable than a downhill bike was from 20years ago, a 130mm trail bike will suit your needs.
I'd go for a newer or new if possible lower end aluminium trail bike - scour the internet for discounted end of season or last year's model or look to the online companies (Cube, Canyon, Privateer, Commencal) etc. Suspension nowadays has lots of adjustments and you can make a nice bike feel utter crap if you don't know what you're doing. A lower end bike will have fewer adjustments but will have middle of the road settings wise - ie better for the speed range you'll be riding at and you'll have less chance of messing it up. 'Low end' Deore and GX groupsets are amazing and far better than XT was from 20years ago, droppers are obligatory.
Geometry has changed massively in the last few years as bikes get longer, slacker and more capable. Santa Cruz are conservative in their geometry. IMHO the only reason to buy a Santa Cruz is because they look good on the roof of an Audi and the free suspension bearings. Otherwise they are overpriced and have poor spec for the money.
I'd go for a newer or new if possible lower end aluminium trail bike - scour the internet for discounted end of season or last year's model or look to the online companies (Cube, Canyon, Privateer, Commencal) etc. Suspension nowadays has lots of adjustments and you can make a nice bike feel utter crap if you don't know what you're doing. A lower end bike will have fewer adjustments but will have middle of the road settings wise - ie better for the speed range you'll be riding at and you'll have less chance of messing it up. 'Low end' Deore and GX groupsets are amazing and far better than XT was from 20years ago, droppers are obligatory.
Geometry has changed massively in the last few years as bikes get longer, slacker and more capable. Santa Cruz are conservative in their geometry. IMHO the only reason to buy a Santa Cruz is because they look good on the roof of an Audi and the free suspension bearings. Otherwise they are overpriced and have poor spec for the money.
Edited by RustyNissanPrairie on Friday 5th September 13:29
Thanks for the info so far.
I used to absolutely love fast flowing trails and was always happy to get some jumps in, (nothing too ridiculous, along the lines of what you'd find at a trail centre) so I think you might be right that a trail bike is the way to go.
I was looking at Canyon's offerings and the Spectral seems like a good all-rounder. Also found a few Whyte's - like this one for instance: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3957866/ and a Cube too - https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3603400/ - looks like there could be plenty of options.
I'm fairly open to what make of bike it is - I just don't want anything too expensive as I know i'll be falling off, so a decent second hand one seems like the way to go.
I did see a Polygon Siskiu T7/8 in Go Outdoors which seemed like a lot of bike for the money too. What are these like?
I used to absolutely love fast flowing trails and was always happy to get some jumps in, (nothing too ridiculous, along the lines of what you'd find at a trail centre) so I think you might be right that a trail bike is the way to go.
I was looking at Canyon's offerings and the Spectral seems like a good all-rounder. Also found a few Whyte's - like this one for instance: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3957866/ and a Cube too - https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3603400/ - looks like there could be plenty of options.
I'm fairly open to what make of bike it is - I just don't want anything too expensive as I know i'll be falling off, so a decent second hand one seems like the way to go.
I did see a Polygon Siskiu T7/8 in Go Outdoors which seemed like a lot of bike for the money too. What are these like?
Lots of opinions, agree on the more trail side than Enduro. Enduro would be overkill.
Something like this would be where I'd go....
https://ebay.us/m/OsDUO7
Something like this would be where I'd go....
https://ebay.us/m/OsDUO7
SwissJonese said:
Look at Mondraker Raze or for longer travel the Foxy.
My daughter rides a Raze R at Bike Park Wales most weekends. Incredible bike, super fast and great climber at places like Forest of Dean. Loads of support as company have a base in the UK and easy to get parts etc.
This looks like a cracking deal to be fair: https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/mondraker-raze-2025...My daughter rides a Raze R at Bike Park Wales most weekends. Incredible bike, super fast and great climber at places like Forest of Dean. Loads of support as company have a base in the UK and easy to get parts etc.
Literally about 5 mins from my house too!
Thanks
Nezquick said:
SwissJonese said:
Look at Mondraker Raze or for longer travel the Foxy.
My daughter rides a Raze R at Bike Park Wales most weekends. Incredible bike, super fast and great climber at places like Forest of Dean. Loads of support as company have a base in the UK and easy to get parts etc.
This looks like a cracking deal to be fair: https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/mondraker-raze-2025...My daughter rides a Raze R at Bike Park Wales most weekends. Incredible bike, super fast and great climber at places like Forest of Dean. Loads of support as company have a base in the UK and easy to get parts etc.
Literally about 5 mins from my house too!
Thanks
Edited by RustyNissanPrairie on Friday 5th September 16:33
See if you can test fit / ride a few options to see what sort of geometry/sizing suits you - some brands have taken the 'long and low' geometry philosophy further than others, to a point where some just aren't a comfortable fit for me at all.
There is no such thing as right or wrong geometry, it's all about what suits the individual.
Also don't rely on manufacturers S / M / L / XL size naming, they vary enough to become almost meaningless so that you really need to try the sizing of each bike to see what fits. For example a Mondraker M is more like an L from many other brands.
There is no such thing as right or wrong geometry, it's all about what suits the individual.
Also don't rely on manufacturers S / M / L / XL size naming, they vary enough to become almost meaningless so that you really need to try the sizing of each bike to see what fits. For example a Mondraker M is more like an L from many other brands.
Edited by GravelBen on Friday 5th September 19:58
A wee bit of budget creep gets a new Bird Aether, but only a large available 7 https://www.bird.bike/product/aether-7-metallic-mi...
Decent spec and Bird make some of the most fun riding bikes.
If you're buying second hand factor in the cost of a fork and shock service, unless the seller has proof of it being done recently, and I would also ask if the frame bearings have been replaced if you're looking at bikes over 2 years old, and if not I would factor that in too.
Decent spec and Bird make some of the most fun riding bikes.
If you're buying second hand factor in the cost of a fork and shock service, unless the seller has proof of it being done recently, and I would also ask if the frame bearings have been replaced if you're looking at bikes over 2 years old, and if not I would factor that in too.
I am not a big fan of off the shelf full bikes as I prefer to build my own but this seems amazing value albeit only in L.
https://www.wheelbase.co.uk/product/mountain-bikes...
I wouldn't bother with 27.5 anymore either and I say that as someone who resisted the big wheel movement for a long time.
https://www.wheelbase.co.uk/product/mountain-bikes...
I wouldn't bother with 27.5 anymore either and I say that as someone who resisted the big wheel movement for a long time.
Edited by nickfrog on Sunday 7th September 09:45
Pablo16v said:
A wee bit of budget creep gets a new Bird Aether, but only a large available 7 https://www.bird.bike/product/aether-7-metallic-mi...
Decent spec and Bird make some of the most fun riding bikes.
If you're buying second hand factor in the cost of a fork and shock service, unless the seller has proof of it being done recently, and I would also ask if the frame bearings have been replaced if you're looking at bikes over 2 years old, and if not I would factor that in too.
I started looking at Bird - that's a good find that. Decent spec and Bird make some of the most fun riding bikes.
If you're buying second hand factor in the cost of a fork and shock service, unless the seller has proof of it being done recently, and I would also ask if the frame bearings have been replaced if you're looking at bikes over 2 years old, and if not I would factor that in too.
To the poster above too - Whyte's are also on my "to look at" list.
I think I need to find somewhere to go and sit on a few and then decide. Thanks all!
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