Discussion
Sure this has been the topic of many posts.
My 320 SE has finished its attention from the Megasquirt "Expert" Yes the navel broadside from the exhaust on the over run has gone but it's a little hesitant at low rpms and throttle positions. Conclusion is that the ECU is being problematic in being calibrated using Tunning Studio. Advice, get a different ECU!! Anyway going to treat the beast to some new sparking plugs. What's recommended please? I've been advised to get "R" type to negate any interference with the ECU? Suggestions please?
My 320 SE has finished its attention from the Megasquirt "Expert" Yes the navel broadside from the exhaust on the over run has gone but it's a little hesitant at low rpms and throttle positions. Conclusion is that the ECU is being problematic in being calibrated using Tunning Studio. Advice, get a different ECU!! Anyway going to treat the beast to some new sparking plugs. What's recommended please? I've been advised to get "R" type to negate any interference with the ECU? Suggestions please? I think I've used BPR6ES in the 390 for as long as I've had it.
I can turn the overrun crackle on and off using the vacuum switch fitted to some RangeRovers, wired via a dash switch. At high manifold depression it cuts the signal from the ignition amplifier so the ECU thinks the engine has stopped and turns off the injectors. It must make a difference to the fuel economy but no idea how far I'd have to drive to measure it!
I realised I could kill two birds with one stone and use the same dash switch to run the fuel pump manually... means you can fill the fuel rails before you spend time cranking. The later Lucas injection ECU actually has a timer that does the same thing and runs the pump for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on.
To avoid having an odd switch on the dash, I needed a switch from the Lucas 182SA range that was momentary one way and latching the other. There wasn't one (the nearest being the electric window switch but that's momentary both ways), so I cannibalised two switches to create one that does the job and matches the rest of the switches - fitted in the one blank slot where the rear demist switch goes on the FHC.
I can turn the overrun crackle on and off using the vacuum switch fitted to some RangeRovers, wired via a dash switch. At high manifold depression it cuts the signal from the ignition amplifier so the ECU thinks the engine has stopped and turns off the injectors. It must make a difference to the fuel economy but no idea how far I'd have to drive to measure it!
I realised I could kill two birds with one stone and use the same dash switch to run the fuel pump manually... means you can fill the fuel rails before you spend time cranking. The later Lucas injection ECU actually has a timer that does the same thing and runs the pump for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on.
To avoid having an odd switch on the dash, I needed a switch from the Lucas 182SA range that was momentary one way and latching the other. There wasn't one (the nearest being the electric window switch but that's momentary both ways), so I cannibalised two switches to create one that does the job and matches the rest of the switches - fitted in the one blank slot where the rear demist switch goes on the FHC.
Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 13th August 22:55
Iridium plugs fitted so see results. Incidently I've noticed my vehicle has only one Lambda sensor fitted?? To the LH ACTexhaust manifold. No mounting for another on the right side. Being a 1986 420SE obviously no cat. Always thought V8's would have a sensor for both cylinder banks like my Chim' did. Normal or not?
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