Rear tail light condensation, latest fix?

[leerandle]

There's lots of threads about fixing the rear tail light condensation, but thought I'd check what's the latest/greatestvway to sort as unfortunately my passenger side light has got condensation in it. Don't want to start drilling and putting things in ovens until I know what's the best solution. More worried about the circuit boards getting knackered and needing to replace the whole light.

[XMark]

I bought little gortex patches to do mine if they ever leak, I’d drill a hole in the underside, blow through with an air line and leave to dry out, then stick a patch over the hole, oven wouldn’t be for me.

[leerandle]

Thanks, I'll order some patches now and get the drill ready.

[Geffg]

Ridiculous now the amount of cars you see with condensation in the lights. Makes them look old and crap.

[leerandle]

Very poor quality if its a known issue and service bulletins written to fix it. I cant see any obvious areas of water to get in other than a 'rusty' thread. Will blow it out this week and then try and blow it out and reseal.

[XMark]

leerandle said:

Very poor quality if its a known issue and service bulletins written to fix it. I cant see any obvious areas of water to get in other than a 'rusty' thread. Will blow it out this week and then try and blow it out and reseal.

I saw an American guy on you tube look at why his were leaking, the top edge towards the centre of the car seemed to have a hairline crack where the lens meets the lamp body, he dried out and sealed right around the lens and cured it.

[macknessmonster]

Once you've dried your light out by drilling the hole and using an airline you can find where it's leaking by putting some soapy suds around the seam and blowing air in through the hole , you should get bubbles coming out where the leak is, mine was on the inside upper corner.

[huesey1974]

I split and resealed mine using the instructions on PH only i used a heat gun to gently heat the sealant. The existing sealant was poor quality and not much of it. Mine are good now.

[leerandle]

No obvious splits in the plastic so assuming its through the seal between the clear/black plastic. I've got a heat gun and some good quality sealant, so will probably just split them later and sort.

[huesey1974]

One tip, don't over tighten them when you put them back on the car if you do replace the seal. I did and after a few weeks it started to pull apart on one of mine and condensation was back. I took it back off and heated it up before leaving it with some weight on it overnight, refitted and only hand tightened them after aligning them up.

[leerandle]

I split mine open last night, see photo.

I did notice that when using the heat gun around the edges, a little bit of water came through between the inner and outer parts.

I'm going to add sealant and put back together later.

Although the RH side light is currently ok, I might as well just run some additional sealer around the edge.

[leerandle]

For info, I used some CT1 black adhesive/sealant (Its about £13,50 a tube, but good quality) and squeezed it between the lips on the lens and all around the main body to ensure I got a water tight seal between the 2 parts.

Gore-tex patch used on the original hole I drilled.

All fitted and lets wait and see if any condensation comes back (Fingers crossed).

Main worry was electrical, but so far everything working as should.

[Simpo Two]

My car has been plagued with this ever since I bought it. I've tried everything I can think of. Last time I made it absolutely waterproof with the proper black sealant everywhere, and more black sealant over that, and made holes and put it in the oven, and put more sealant over those, and put silica gel bags in...

On Sunday after a day in the sun I saw the dreaded droplets back yet again. My unit is currently back in the oven (30mins at 50C), after which I shall put more silica gel bags in and reseal it yet again. I've come to regard it as a regular task, like mowing the lawn. I simply cannot understand how the fking water gets in. Even after examining it after removal today it looked 100% watertight.


ETA On the plus side I'm getting good at refitting the unit now. It actually took 90 mins to dispel the droplets - but you have to do it or the lights will eventually fail. Hopefully OK for a few months now.

Edited by Simpo Two on Friday 15th August 21:38

[leerandle]

Although you need to dry them out, any residual heat left inside (from oven or heat gun) after you seal will eventually cool down and form condensation again. Make sure you leave them to 'acclimatise' before resealing. Just a thought ?!?

[Simpo Two]

leerandle said:

Although you need to dry them out, any residual heat left inside (from oven or heat gun) after you seal will eventually cool down and form condensation again. Make sure you leave them to 'acclimatise' before resealing. Just a thought ?!?

Well, my logic was that hot air holds less moisture than cold air, so I was keen to get mine sealed asap before it cooled and pulled cooler damper air in through the hole.

All I know is - it will fail again eventually

[XMark]

The lamps really need the hole drilled and goretex patch to let them breathe

[Simpo Two]

XMark said:

The lamps really need the hole drilled and goretex patch to let them breathe

Do you put the hole on the top, back or underneath?

[XMark]

Simpo Two said:

Do you put the hole on the top, back or underneath?

Here’s the service bulletin


https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/attachment.php...

[Simpo Two]

Interesting, thanks.

When I had my first car I got a Haynes manual. It said things like 'First remove the gearbox'. The equivalent now is 'Find the location of the water leak'...!