Set timing 400
Discussion
Finally today I had some time to check my chimaera, she has a rough idle and high CO2.
I got her up on the ramp and found the marks on the pulley, cleaned them out and paint them and grind again. Now the marks are clearly visible.
Now I would set the timing but I can not find the mark on the engine side to match the pulley markings. Can someone help me out where to look so I can check the timing?
If timing is correct I need to replace amp, coil, distributor cap, rotor and leads, are there any upgrades for these?
When changing parts I'd rather upgrade if possible, looking for parts in the eu as it will save me from declaring hassles.
Thank you.
I got her up on the ramp and found the marks on the pulley, cleaned them out and paint them and grind again. Now the marks are clearly visible.
Now I would set the timing but I can not find the mark on the engine side to match the pulley markings. Can someone help me out where to look so I can check the timing?
If timing is correct I need to replace amp, coil, distributor cap, rotor and leads, are there any upgrades for these?
When changing parts I'd rather upgrade if possible, looking for parts in the eu as it will save me from declaring hassles.
Thank you.
Absolutely agree.
Also, worth a read of this thread on timing and vacuum advance - you'll see a chap called Stu_VT (around page 7 I think) proving the theory that emerges.
I have done this, and found the car to feel slightly more ready to go from lower revs.
Then also clean out the gunk below the bleed screw and re-set it to 1.5 turns from the bottom.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Also, worth a read of this thread on timing and vacuum advance - you'll see a chap called Stu_VT (around page 7 I think) proving the theory that emerges.
I have done this, and found the car to feel slightly more ready to go from lower revs.
Then also clean out the gunk below the bleed screw and re-set it to 1.5 turns from the bottom.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I believe this module is oe lucas old stock so I would buy one anyway personally.
https://ebay.us/m/v9PcDm
https://ebay.us/m/v9PcDm
Thanks for all advise, I'm not going to replace all without a look. The last weeks I been testing several things to point in the wright direction, this to avoid replacing parts that are ok.
Frank also took a look to a log which did not point out a clear problem.
Just set the timing, old setting was around 13-14 degrees btdc without vacuum. Now I set is back to 8 degree btdc, with 3250rpm it has around 28 degree btdc without vacuum (28 degrees is start of the notch on my pulley). When I connect the vacuum back it's still 8 degree btdc but with 3250rpm it's more like 40 degree btdc, these figures are all ok?
Engine still has rough idle and runs lumpy so this is not the cause, hopefully tomorrow I receive a fuel pressure meter so I can tick the last box and decide to order first the ignition parts in the hope this is the cause.
If you want to add anything, please feel free.
Thank you.
Frank also took a look to a log which did not point out a clear problem.
Just set the timing, old setting was around 13-14 degrees btdc without vacuum. Now I set is back to 8 degree btdc, with 3250rpm it has around 28 degree btdc without vacuum (28 degrees is start of the notch on my pulley). When I connect the vacuum back it's still 8 degree btdc but with 3250rpm it's more like 40 degree btdc, these figures are all ok?
Engine still has rough idle and runs lumpy so this is not the cause, hopefully tomorrow I receive a fuel pressure meter so I can tick the last box and decide to order first the ignition parts in the hope this is the cause.
If you want to add anything, please feel free.
Thank you.
If your vacuum signal is taken from the nozzle on top of the throttle body, the idle timing is the same with the vacuum on or off because it's ported - therefore no vacuum pull when throttle is closed.
Have you tested the vacuum module by sucking on the pipe to it (it should increase the revs slightly)?
If you're happy that the vacuum module is working properly, then you can look at changing the signal to full manifold vacuum.
Mine is taken from here:
Mine, with the vacuum signal taken from the manifold is as follows:
idle with vacuum pipe disconnected = 8° advance
idle with vacuum pipe connected to manifold = 20-22° advance
This is the whole advance topic that affects idle.
You just need to swap it back for MOT day, and the car will run a little rougher for the test but meet the emissions test.
Have you tested the vacuum module by sucking on the pipe to it (it should increase the revs slightly)?
If you're happy that the vacuum module is working properly, then you can look at changing the signal to full manifold vacuum.
Mine is taken from here:
Mine, with the vacuum signal taken from the manifold is as follows:
idle with vacuum pipe disconnected = 8° advance
idle with vacuum pipe connected to manifold = 20-22° advance
This is the whole advance topic that affects idle.
You just need to swap it back for MOT day, and the car will run a little rougher for the test but meet the emissions test.
I don't have now full vacuum, first need to get mot before I can think of full vacuum.
Are land rover ignition parts exactly te same as tvr parts?
2 village's away there is a land rover specialist who has all parts on stock, would be easy to collect them there.
Are land rover ignition parts exactly te same as tvr parts?
2 village's away there is a land rover specialist who has all parts on stock, would be easy to collect them there.
Edited by haaren on Thursday 24th July 02:01
Depends really, they used to stock Britpart which was junk. Original parts are no longer available so they would be aftermarket of some description.
Quite often if your cap and rotor are original they will be better than anything aftermarket.
Distributor doctor online would be my go to for cap and rotor, leads are tricky as some just buy a set from craddocks 4x4 and some from Mr Retro plugs and leads on ebay but the latter are almost 3 x the price.
You didn't say if you still have original extenders fitted?
Quite often if your cap and rotor are original they will be better than anything aftermarket.
Distributor doctor online would be my go to for cap and rotor, leads are tricky as some just buy a set from craddocks 4x4 and some from Mr Retro plugs and leads on ebay but the latter are almost 3 x the price.
You didn't say if you still have original extenders fitted?
I have seen they sell some original parts and some britparts, need to be careful with britparts then.
The only original parts left on my car of the ignition are coil, amp and distributor, rest is / looks aftermarket.
There are no plug extenders on my car, car was running without heatsocks. Recently bought these, so with next change I will protect them a bit better.
The only original parts left on my car of the ignition are coil, amp and distributor, rest is / looks aftermarket.
There are no plug extenders on my car, car was running without heatsocks. Recently bought these, so with next change I will protect them a bit better.
Edited by haaren on Thursday 24th July 10:02
Edited by haaren on Thursday 24th July 10:02
Main problem is I live in the Netherlands, meaning that shipment is taking long and very expensive.
I need to focus on what's available in the mainland, bummer.
Yesterday received the fuel pressure meter, direct to the garage and pressures are all ok.
Found an other land rover shop hoe could supply Lucas coil, dizzy cap and module, meaning only rotor and leads will not be unbranded.
It's worth the gamble and these 2 parts where not that expensive, hopefully I will receive them start of next week.
With an other shop ordered the spark plugs bpr6es, so we are good to go.
Now wait for the deliveries and start to change part by part to see if we can find the cause, if still rough idle the next step will be injectors. Let's hope we get some results as I would love to take a ride in it.
I need to focus on what's available in the mainland, bummer.
Yesterday received the fuel pressure meter, direct to the garage and pressures are all ok.
Found an other land rover shop hoe could supply Lucas coil, dizzy cap and module, meaning only rotor and leads will not be unbranded.
It's worth the gamble and these 2 parts where not that expensive, hopefully I will receive them start of next week.
With an other shop ordered the spark plugs bpr6es, so we are good to go.
Now wait for the deliveries and start to change part by part to see if we can find the cause, if still rough idle the next step will be injectors. Let's hope we get some results as I would love to take a ride in it.
Just to revisit your timing figures, I am finding that hard to understand.
At idle vacuum advance disconnected and hose blanked off you should see around 12 degrees btdc, i think the book figure is 8 but a little more wont hurt.
Reconnect vacuum hose and Increase rpm to 3250 and it should reach 30 degrees ish.
Are you saying this is not the case?
At idle vacuum advance disconnected and hose blanked off you should see around 12 degrees btdc, i think the book figure is 8 but a little more wont hurt.
Reconnect vacuum hose and Increase rpm to 3250 and it should reach 30 degrees ish.
Are you saying this is not the case?
Belle427 said:
Just to revisit your timing figures, I am finding that hard to understand.
At idle vacuum advance disconnected and hose blanked off you should see around 12 degrees btdc, i think the book figure is 8 but a little more wont hurt.
Reconnect vacuum hose and Increase rpm to 3250 and it should reach 30 degrees ish.
Are you saying this is not the case?
Idle with connected or disconnected (ported) vacuum gives no difference, original it was 13-14 degrees, I did put it back to the adviced 8 degrees.At idle vacuum advance disconnected and hose blanked off you should see around 12 degrees btdc, i think the book figure is 8 but a little more wont hurt.
Reconnect vacuum hose and Increase rpm to 3250 and it should reach 30 degrees ish.
Are you saying this is not the case?
With 3250 revs it has 28 degrees with disconnected vacuum and around 40 with connected vacuum, are these no good figure's?
said:
I've measured the scale of the advance and retard on the pulley which is in total 24 degrees with a caliper, then start at 4 degrees btdc and add the 24 degrees of the caliper to get 28 btdc, this was exact the start of the notch on my pulley.
This 28 Mark was needed to check timing with 3250 revs as the normal scale will not pas 12 degrees.
Hope it's more clear on how I measured all.
Hi do not get your answer, the vacuum should make a difference be connect or disconnected, elsewise there is no function.
I thought the adjustment was superb as with disconnected vacuum I get exact 28 btdc, this can be a coincidence??
40 is just a rough guess / no exact measurement, it's way behind the notch with connected ported vacuum.
If it's wrong what could be the cause of it, the dizzy itself?
It will not have effect on the rough idle as this will be more an issue when driving.
I thought the adjustment was superb as with disconnected vacuum I get exact 28 btdc, this can be a coincidence??
40 is just a rough guess / no exact measurement, it's way behind the notch with connected ported vacuum.
If it's wrong what could be the cause of it, the dizzy itself?
It will not have effect on the rough idle as this will be more an issue when driving.
Edited by haaren on Saturday 26th July 13:08
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