Alarm freaked out, and now I'm locked out

[jstx]

I'm sure this has happened before?? My alarm has gone heywire in the middle of my project below. The alarm went off, it is extremely loud in a metal building btw. So I grabbed the key fob...nothing. I push it, I hold it down, still nothing. Doors are locked, windows are up and at this point I have no way in.

I do have to trunk open so that's a positive. Is there any way in?

Since it is smoking hot here in Texas, I changed out the old coolant pipes and while I was at it decided to upgrade my single fan for a dual fan setup. Best I could figure, the single Spal unit claimed 1600cfm. I upgraded to a Maradyne 3400cfm dual fan. I'm leaving the one fan closest to the radiator inlet on the ECM and the second fan I am going to wire to a relay and switch mounted in the car. The new fans are so much smaller, more efficient, and far more powerful. Because I can't get in the car, I can't bleed the system. I did pressure test it and all is good to go, but the point of the car is to drive it

[bennno]

As you have the trunk open, reach in to far top corner of boot and there’s a manual release for each door.

[jstx]

thank you.

[jstx]

Well, what was bad, has turned worse. I did find one red handle, but the cable and the handle had parted ways. I drilled out the rivets hoping to grasp on to any remaining cable, but the cable was frozen in the sheath and apparently was never connected. Never could find a handle on the passenger side.





There is a tiny gap in the drivers window so I tried with a coat hanger, but cannot seem to get a good angle on the release handle. I did hook it, but it keeps slipping off. Probably more of an angle problem than anything.

Is there any way to power up the door locks with a power probe?

Edited by jstx on Monday 14th July 04:35

[FarmyardPants]

jstx said:

Is there any way to power up the door locks with a power probe?

I just did a test, and the inner door buttons do open the door when the car is locked. This is good news for you .

To simulate pressing the driver or passenger inner door button, just ground out the relevant pin of the door & window control box, which is easy as you have the boot open.

The pins are shown in the first post of this thread, labelled LH Inner and RH Inner:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

HTH

Edited by FarmyardPants on Monday 14th July 11:58

[Byker28i]

I've stuck wiring diagrams and more up now, if it's any use
http://nineelmsphotography.com/cerbera

[jstx]

Thank you thank you thank you.

When I applied power to the car, the drivers window shut the last 1/4" so if this didn't work I was screwed blued and tattoed, so I was quite a happy guy when I heard the sweet sweet sound of the popping of the drivers door.

Y'all saved me hours of fiddling around in 30*+C. It's 38-ish C outside, so my two little a/c's are screaming away in the barn to get it down a little.

Again, can't thank you all enough.

John

[FarmyardPants]

Happy to help! That's what this forum is for

[bennno]

jstx said:

Thank you thank you thank you.

When I applied power to the car, the drivers window shut the last 1/4" so if this didn't work I was screwed blued and tattoed, so I was quite a happy guy when I heard the sweet sweet sound of the popping of the drivers door.

Y'all saved me hours of fiddling around in 30*+C. It's 38-ish C outside, so my two little a/c's are screaming away in the barn to get it down a little.

Again, can't thank you all enough.

John

Good news, now it’s open you’ll have to renew the quick release

[jstx]

bennno said:

Good news, now it s open you ll have to renew the quick release

Sounds like something I'll have to tackle when the weather is more cooperative. Tearing apart the interior to run a new cable sounds a bit to sweaty right now. Today it's 33*c, 23.3*c Dew Point and feels like 42*c.