Shed Base : Plastic Mesh

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Discussion

towser

Original Poster:

1,103 posts

226 months

Yesterday (18:52)
quotequote all
Hi,

I'm putting up a new wooden shed, max dimensions 9ft x 7ft which will be for garden tools, mower etc....

Looking for views on the plastic mesh / grid style bases

They seem like a slightly less expensive and time consuming alternative to the mini-patio approach.

But if they're rubbish and need ripped up within a couple of years I'll avoid.

TIA

Drumroll

4,147 posts

135 months

Yesterday (19:03)
quotequote all
They have the advantage (if laid right) of draining water. friend dug out the area for the base, put down a thin layer of sand and then some weed control fabric. placed the mesh so it was slightly higher than the grass and filled with pea gravel. seems to have worked OK for him.

OutInTheShed

11,339 posts

41 months

Yesterday (19:17)
quotequote all
Unless the ground is very dry, you should think about some sort of damp proof membrane, or raise the shed floor above the ground on bearers or blocks.

Depending on the construction of the shed floor, you may only need a few paving slabs or brick piers or something, not a full 'patio' the size of the shed,

I did one shed on 4 bearers about 5 inches deep, each supported at each end and in the middle.
Each support was 2 layers of two bricks each.
So, just some sand and cement and 48 old bricks that were laying about, plus four old scaffold planks cut down.

The gravel grid things make a lot of sense, but could be a lot of digging if the ground isn't flat.
It may be nicer not to have the shed floor raised on bearers.
Many ways of doing the job, all with pro's and con's.

Gren

2,005 posts

267 months

Mine's been down 6 years now. 8' x 8' shed.

Levelled the ground (bare earth), put down a weed membrane, placed the grid base, spirit-levelled it and then pegged it down. I then filled it all with gravel as that was what was covering the rest of that area anyway. Took a couple of hours and involved no skill whatsoever. Other than a long spirit level there was no special kit needed

Nothing has moved, shed is still level. Looks like it will stay that way as long as the shed lasts.

BuyaDuster

781 posts

196 months

A good cheat is to use tanalised (rot proof) commercial pallets for a base.
They spread the load once the shed is on top and seem to last for eve, lifting the shed nicely off the ground to allow the walls to drip.
Also, it costs nothing and takes minutes to do.
I put a large wooden shed (12ft by 10 ft) on wooden pallets 20 years ago.
Nothing has shifted or rotted in that time, still perfect.

OutInTheShed

11,339 posts

41 months

Plastic pallets are good, but much less easy to scrounge than wooden ones.
Can be cheap enough on ebay, but usually 'collection only' from miles away.

OutInTheShed

11,339 posts

41 months

All of these solutions are only as good as the ground under them!
If the ground settles at all, the shed will move.

Some systems are much easier than others to cure this, if it matters.
With a shed on bearers, you can add or a remove a few packers if you have access.

It may be a case of 'it's a shed, it doesn't matter' or it may be a case of the door not opening/closing!

POIDH

1,806 posts

80 months

I am one who thinks 'if I am going to do this, do it right'. My shed bases have seen two sheds, and those sheds have lasted at least 10-15 years. Easy to pop a new shed on top of a really good base. Both mine were a proper concrete pour, but I also used steel 'land screws' before. Easy to adjust if things settle, I never get weeds, they look neat. I raise all my sheds up to encourage airflow - last time I managed to buy a two plastic fence posts - the shed is now sat on them, lying on the concrete, and no water wicks up at all.

Skyedriver

20,543 posts

297 months

POIDH said:
I am one who thinks 'if I am going to do this, do it right'. My shed bases have seen two sheds, and those sheds have lasted at least 10-15 years. Easy to pop a new shed on top of a really good base. Both mine were a proper concrete pour, but I also used steel 'land screws' before. Easy to adjust if things settle, I never get weeds, they look neat. I raise all my sheds up to encourage airflow - last time I managed to buy a two plastic fence posts - the shed is now sat on them, lying on the concrete, and no water wicks up at all.
Lot to be said for doing it properly.

On the other hand, the last one I put up had a hardcore base then piers but up with concrete "breeze" blocks. Layer of DPM on the top of each.
Allowed loads of air to circulate.

Hol

9,064 posts

215 months


I’ve used everything from a hard concrete base to a shuttered out enclosure filled with sharp sand and used patio slabs. All of them lasted years and outlived the upper parts of those sheds.

I don’t see a problem, with one of those plastic bases so long as there is a weed barrier involved. They wouldn’t sell them if they couldn’t be levelled properly.