Shed Base : Plastic Mesh
Discussion
Hi,
I'm putting up a new wooden shed, max dimensions 9ft x 7ft which will be for garden tools, mower etc....
Looking for views on the plastic mesh / grid style bases
They seem like a slightly less expensive and time consuming alternative to the mini-patio approach.
But if they're rubbish and need ripped up within a couple of years I'll avoid.
TIA
I'm putting up a new wooden shed, max dimensions 9ft x 7ft which will be for garden tools, mower etc....
Looking for views on the plastic mesh / grid style bases
They seem like a slightly less expensive and time consuming alternative to the mini-patio approach.
But if they're rubbish and need ripped up within a couple of years I'll avoid.
TIA
Unless the ground is very dry, you should think about some sort of damp proof membrane, or raise the shed floor above the ground on bearers or blocks.
Depending on the construction of the shed floor, you may only need a few paving slabs or brick piers or something, not a full 'patio' the size of the shed,
I did one shed on 4 bearers about 5 inches deep, each supported at each end and in the middle.
Each support was 2 layers of two bricks each.
So, just some sand and cement and 48 old bricks that were laying about, plus four old scaffold planks cut down.
The gravel grid things make a lot of sense, but could be a lot of digging if the ground isn't flat.
It may be nicer not to have the shed floor raised on bearers.
Many ways of doing the job, all with pro's and con's.
Depending on the construction of the shed floor, you may only need a few paving slabs or brick piers or something, not a full 'patio' the size of the shed,
I did one shed on 4 bearers about 5 inches deep, each supported at each end and in the middle.
Each support was 2 layers of two bricks each.
So, just some sand and cement and 48 old bricks that were laying about, plus four old scaffold planks cut down.
The gravel grid things make a lot of sense, but could be a lot of digging if the ground isn't flat.
It may be nicer not to have the shed floor raised on bearers.
Many ways of doing the job, all with pro's and con's.
Mine's been down 6 years now. 8' x 8' shed.
Levelled the ground (bare earth), put down a weed membrane, placed the grid base, spirit-levelled it and then pegged it down. I then filled it all with gravel as that was what was covering the rest of that area anyway. Took a couple of hours and involved no skill whatsoever. Other than a long spirit level there was no special kit needed
Nothing has moved, shed is still level. Looks like it will stay that way as long as the shed lasts.
Levelled the ground (bare earth), put down a weed membrane, placed the grid base, spirit-levelled it and then pegged it down. I then filled it all with gravel as that was what was covering the rest of that area anyway. Took a couple of hours and involved no skill whatsoever. Other than a long spirit level there was no special kit needed
Nothing has moved, shed is still level. Looks like it will stay that way as long as the shed lasts.
A good cheat is to use tanalised (rot proof) commercial pallets for a base.
They spread the load once the shed is on top and seem to last for eve, lifting the shed nicely off the ground to allow the walls to drip.
Also, it costs nothing and takes minutes to do.
I put a large wooden shed (12ft by 10 ft) on wooden pallets 20 years ago.
Nothing has shifted or rotted in that time, still perfect.
They spread the load once the shed is on top and seem to last for eve, lifting the shed nicely off the ground to allow the walls to drip.
Also, it costs nothing and takes minutes to do.
I put a large wooden shed (12ft by 10 ft) on wooden pallets 20 years ago.
Nothing has shifted or rotted in that time, still perfect.
All of these solutions are only as good as the ground under them!
If the ground settles at all, the shed will move.
Some systems are much easier than others to cure this, if it matters.
With a shed on bearers, you can add or a remove a few packers if you have access.
It may be a case of 'it's a shed, it doesn't matter' or it may be a case of the door not opening/closing!
If the ground settles at all, the shed will move.
Some systems are much easier than others to cure this, if it matters.
With a shed on bearers, you can add or a remove a few packers if you have access.
It may be a case of 'it's a shed, it doesn't matter' or it may be a case of the door not opening/closing!
I am one who thinks 'if I am going to do this, do it right'. My shed bases have seen two sheds, and those sheds have lasted at least 10-15 years. Easy to pop a new shed on top of a really good base. Both mine were a proper concrete pour, but I also used steel 'land screws' before. Easy to adjust if things settle, I never get weeds, they look neat. I raise all my sheds up to encourage airflow - last time I managed to buy a two plastic fence posts - the shed is now sat on them, lying on the concrete, and no water wicks up at all.
POIDH said:
I am one who thinks 'if I am going to do this, do it right'. My shed bases have seen two sheds, and those sheds have lasted at least 10-15 years. Easy to pop a new shed on top of a really good base. Both mine were a proper concrete pour, but I also used steel 'land screws' before. Easy to adjust if things settle, I never get weeds, they look neat. I raise all my sheds up to encourage airflow - last time I managed to buy a two plastic fence posts - the shed is now sat on them, lying on the concrete, and no water wicks up at all.
Lot to be said for doing it properly.On the other hand, the last one I put up had a hardcore base then piers but up with concrete "breeze" blocks. Layer of DPM on the top of each.
Allowed loads of air to circulate.
I’ve used everything from a hard concrete base to a shuttered out enclosure filled with sharp sand and used patio slabs. All of them lasted years and outlived the upper parts of those sheds.
I don’t see a problem, with one of those plastic bases so long as there is a weed barrier involved. They wouldn’t sell them if they couldn’t be levelled properly.
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