Getting a e-bike wheel welded.
Discussion
As per the title really, I have ebike wheel, actually the wheel of a electric unicycle, which needs welding to repair it.
Replacements typically come as a complete unit including the motor windings etc and are both rare to come by and expensive.
The wheel rides ok as it is, but I am worried it will get worse, and or leave me stranded one day.
I did think about car wheel repairers, but to be honest a good engineering shop is likely at least as good.
Any recommendations? Fairly light so posting it isn't an issue unless they happened to in the Wirral / Ellesmere Port area.
Replacements typically come as a complete unit including the motor windings etc and are both rare to come by and expensive.
The wheel rides ok as it is, but I am worried it will get worse, and or leave me stranded one day.
I did think about car wheel repairers, but to be honest a good engineering shop is likely at least as good.
Any recommendations? Fairly light so posting it isn't an issue unless they happened to in the Wirral / Ellesmere Port area.
Is that steel or alloy? I ask because it may help someone assist you.
Also, given that level of damage, I think you'll struggle to find a professional to weld that, because of liability. There's a fair bit of work there to get it clamped down, beaten into shape, then welded - then a new tire as the old one must be destroyed from the hit it took?
Also, given that level of damage, I think you'll struggle to find a professional to weld that, because of liability. There's a fair bit of work there to get it clamped down, beaten into shape, then welded - then a new tire as the old one must be destroyed from the hit it took?
Just Google lens searched the image, was quite useful as I had considered one of those electric sit on unicycle things, the many reports of failed wheels and accidents after axles fail have convinced me it's a hassle in life I don't need.
My advice, either buy another unit to cannibalise for parts or buy a new wheel, it's not a nice quality thing, it's really cheap extruded type alloy, like old window frames (and Elise chassis 😂) it's also quite badly corroded, and bent. It's repairable but you will have a job finding someone who will,they won't be very happy about doing it (if they aren't a cowboy) and I suspect it will just crack elsewhere. I also don't reckon anyone's repairing that for less than a new wheel will cost, full machines aren't that expensive, suspect a used one would be fairly cheap.
I think I might take the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly more robust version.
My advice, either buy another unit to cannibalise for parts or buy a new wheel, it's not a nice quality thing, it's really cheap extruded type alloy, like old window frames (and Elise chassis 😂) it's also quite badly corroded, and bent. It's repairable but you will have a job finding someone who will,they won't be very happy about doing it (if they aren't a cowboy) and I suspect it will just crack elsewhere. I also don't reckon anyone's repairing that for less than a new wheel will cost, full machines aren't that expensive, suspect a used one would be fairly cheap.
I think I might take the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly more robust version.
Its aluminium.
It is a CNC machined piece, presumable stated life as a casting or forging, but its unclear at this stage. Pretty solid, certainly not extruded or cheap. The unicycle itself is a Kingsong 18L which is a well respected brand and model, and they cost around £1500 new.
A replacement wheel+motor is £250 so that is an option but also leaves an amount of headroom to look at an repair.
The wheel is perfectly straight other the the short section of rim, no twist or buckle, and I am actually riding it as it is.
I use a conventional pedal bike a lot too, but the convenience of being able to chuck in in the boot of the car or under a seat is priceless.
Plus if you are doing a longer ride obviously its powered so 20-30mph including up hill is a big lift if your have 20miles to do.
It is a CNC machined piece, presumable stated life as a casting or forging, but its unclear at this stage. Pretty solid, certainly not extruded or cheap. The unicycle itself is a Kingsong 18L which is a well respected brand and model, and they cost around £1500 new.
A replacement wheel+motor is £250 so that is an option but also leaves an amount of headroom to look at an repair.
The wheel is perfectly straight other the the short section of rim, no twist or buckle, and I am actually riding it as it is.
wildoliver said:
I had considered one of those electric sit on unicycle things, the many reports of failed wheels and accidents after axles fail have convinced me it's a hassle in life I don't need.
People do occasionally sit up them, but they are almost always ridden standing up. Obviously anything can fail, but they are very reliable and the main names in the market have a very good proven track record. Certainly mine has been 100% reliable for the six years I have owned it and I would recommend one to anyone interested. Its super useful for getting around, be that dropping the car off at the garage, nipping to the shop of an evening, or getting to an from the train station and or the pub. I also use it for getting back to the car after moving ours and other friends narrowboats.I use a conventional pedal bike a lot too, but the convenience of being able to chuck in in the boot of the car or under a seat is priceless.
Plus if you are doing a longer ride obviously its powered so 20-30mph including up hill is a big lift if your have 20miles to do.
I'd say it's almost certainly cast so made up of last year's coke cans and old window frames.
Welding such thin section isn't easy regardless of the quality of the ally so you would have to heat treat after welding to prevent further cracking, heat treatment might also result in the wheel buckling.
Personally I'd be pulling the motor and any other usable bits off the wheel and weighing it in for a few pennies in scrap.
Welding such thin section isn't easy regardless of the quality of the ally so you would have to heat treat after welding to prevent further cracking, heat treatment might also result in the wheel buckling.
Personally I'd be pulling the motor and any other usable bits off the wheel and weighing it in for a few pennies in scrap.
shtu said:
Totally irrelevant but,
Keen eyes!dhutch said:
electric unicycle
the photos show two wheel/motor assemblies.I actually bought a replacement wheel motor when a stonked into a curb, fitted and rand with that for a few years, but then I dunked it in the canal which appears to have knackered the electronics in the motors sensor, putting the second wheel motor out of action.
Cunning plan was hatched, used the centre motor part of one wheel, with the rim of the other wheel, and make one good wheel motor out of the two.
Sadly they have clearly made some tweaks to the design and while the whole wheel motor unit is backwards and forward compatible, the rotors are slightly different diameters which scuppered that plan and saw me consider a welded repair. *while still a current model, its was first released 7 years ago
The other option is to try and repair the sensor electronics, but sadly I am a mechanical engineer not electronics!
Hugo Stiglitz said:
By law mine cuts out at 15mph. Anyway I'm out. I'm totally against unrestricted e bikes on public roads.
I don't mind unrestricted e-bikes, so long as they are taxed and insured as motorbikes and have proper brakes etc.I'm somewhat against uninsured a
hole criminals on unlicensed substandard motorcycles.I am all for better rules surround electric bikes that can travel at over a given speed and or over a certain motor power output, so that they can be appropriately insured and or taxed.
And also sorting out the rules so that personally owned electric scooters and electric unicycles can be used legally on public roads, within certain sensible limits.
However, lets not derail this thread into a conversation about that clustermess. There are many threads on the topic if you want to have that debate.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
In the mean time I ride my EUC responsibility, as 38 you professional, dad, car driver and a pushbike user.
Sticking to the road or bridleway, wearing a bike helmet, high vis, slowing down around people and busy junctions etc.
No more dangerous than a pushbike.
Yes I did hit a curb, once in 5 years of riding, but these things happen. Pushbikes hit curbs too.
And also sorting out the rules so that personally owned electric scooters and electric unicycles can be used legally on public roads, within certain sensible limits.
However, lets not derail this thread into a conversation about that clustermess. There are many threads on the topic if you want to have that debate.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
In the mean time I ride my EUC responsibility, as 38 you professional, dad, car driver and a pushbike user.
Sticking to the road or bridleway, wearing a bike helmet, high vis, slowing down around people and busy junctions etc.
No more dangerous than a pushbike.
Yes I did hit a curb, once in 5 years of riding, but these things happen. Pushbikes hit curbs too.
I'm going to agree with earlier comments that the material looks a mess, and won't be nice to weld. There will also be liability issues. A lot of welders will just say no.
For car wheel repairs I use a company called Bespoke Alloys in New Denham, Bucks. I appreciate they are not near to you, but may be an option if shipping it is possible. I've seen them repair properly mangled stuff for "coffee table" use.
You may of course find a similar company closer to home.
For car wheel repairs I use a company called Bespoke Alloys in New Denham, Bucks. I appreciate they are not near to you, but may be an option if shipping it is possible. I've seen them repair properly mangled stuff for "coffee table" use.
You may of course find a similar company closer to home.
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