Should I get my DPF cleaned?
Discussion
Car is a 2011 530d. 144k miles. The car is regularly serviced by BMW independent.
Mainly used for longer journeys, not many short town trips. Car is healthy and at the last service the BMW independent said it drove very well.
Using the Carly scanner it tells me the DPF is in a bad way and getting close to being blocked.
No warning lights showing.
Exhaust is sooty on the tailpipe.
No mpg issues. No performance issues.
Carly readings are 5.25g soot. 46.86 g ash.
A local mobile DPF cleaning service has loads of positive reviews. Should I get it cleaned or keep the money in the
bank. If it ain't broke don't fix it?
Mainly used for longer journeys, not many short town trips. Car is healthy and at the last service the BMW independent said it drove very well.
Using the Carly scanner it tells me the DPF is in a bad way and getting close to being blocked.
No warning lights showing.
Exhaust is sooty on the tailpipe.
No mpg issues. No performance issues.
Carly readings are 5.25g soot. 46.86 g ash.
A local mobile DPF cleaning service has loads of positive reviews. Should I get it cleaned or keep the money in the
bank. If it ain't broke don't fix it?
I know a lot of people turn their noses up at additives however on two cars with similar issues I have had a lot of success using
Archoil AR6400 D-Max.
If you do have issues preventing the car from regenerating correctly it’s not good to fix those problems however my experience has been really positive so for the sake of £30 or so, it could be worth a try.
Archoil AR6400 D-Max.
If you do have issues preventing the car from regenerating correctly it’s not good to fix those problems however my experience has been really positive so for the sake of £30 or so, it could be worth a try.
Following this thread with interest!
After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
How could you tell it had done a re-gen?
I did a forced one with the Carly gadget and only knew something had happened when my totally uninterested wife said 'one of the numbers is changing'.
This thing is parked on the street and I am bothered about a sooty exhaust, surely this is a health hazard.
I did a forced one with the Carly gadget and only knew something had happened when my totally uninterested wife said 'one of the numbers is changing'.
This thing is parked on the street and I am bothered about a sooty exhaust, surely this is a health hazard.
I would potentially try an off-car clean first.
I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
Another point to note - do the DPFs just get clogged or do they wear out over time?
The DPF isn't that difficult to remove on the F11 30d, the process I used was;
- Remove Exhaust
- Remove all DPF electrical connections from engine bay
- Remove the temperature probe thats visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Remove steering column heat shield
- Unbolt driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two
The DPF can then be "wiggled" out.
I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
Another point to note - do the DPFs just get clogged or do they wear out over time?
The DPF isn't that difficult to remove on the F11 30d, the process I used was;
- Remove Exhaust
- Remove all DPF electrical connections from engine bay
- Remove the temperature probe thats visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Remove steering column heat shield
- Unbolt driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two
The DPF can then be "wiggled" out.
AlexGSi2000 said:
I would potentially try an off-car clean first.
I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
Another point to note - do the DPFs just get clogged or do they wear out over time?
The DPF isn't that difficult to remove on the F11 30d, the process I used was;
- Remove Exhaust
- Remove all DPF electrical connections from engine bay
- Remove the temperature probe thats visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Remove steering column heat shield
- Unbolt driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two
The DPF can then be "wiggled" out.
Or alternatively...I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
Another point to note - do the DPFs just get clogged or do they wear out over time?
The DPF isn't that difficult to remove on the F11 30d, the process I used was;
- Remove Exhaust
- Remove all DPF electrical connections from engine bay
- Remove the temperature probe thats visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Remove steering column heat shield
- Unbolt driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two
The DPF can then be "wiggled" out.
- Snap the corroded the temperature probe that's visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Shear steering column heat shield bolts.
- Use induction heater on, then shear, driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two.
- Get b
king off significant other for using language that both the kids and the neighbours can hear.- Sit cross legged next to your car covered in road grime and rust whilst blinking furiously wondering whether the rust in your eye will actually blind you.
- Ponder setting the f***** thing on fire and just cycling to work in future.
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Or alternatively...
- Snap the corroded the temperature probe that's visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Shear steering column heat shield bolts.
- Use induction heater on, then shear, driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two.
- Get bking off significant other for using language that both the kids and the neighbours can hear.
- Sit cross legged next to your car covered in road grime and rust whilst blinking furiously wondering whether the rust in your eye will actually blind you.
- Ponder setting the f***** thing on fire and just cycling to work in future.
- Snap the corroded the temperature probe that's visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Shear steering column heat shield bolts.
- Use induction heater on, then shear, driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two.
- Get b
king off significant other for using language that both the kids and the neighbours can hear.- Sit cross legged next to your car covered in road grime and rust whilst blinking furiously wondering whether the rust in your eye will actually blind you.
- Ponder setting the f***** thing on fire and just cycling to work in future.
So true to life
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Or alternatively...
- Snap the corroded the temperature probe that's visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Shear steering column heat shield bolts.
- Use induction heater on, then shear, driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two.
- Get bking off significant other for using language that both the kids and the neighbours can hear.
- Sit cross legged next to your car covered in road grime and rust whilst blinking furiously wondering whether the rust in your eye will actually blind you.
- Ponder setting the f***** thing on fire and just cycling to work in future.
You missed the killer of realising you are missing a vital part and all the shops are shut or you can't get there and you need the car on Monday...- Snap the corroded the temperature probe that's visible from the side of the DPF whilst in the engine bay
- Shear steering column heat shield bolts.
- Use induction heater on, then shear, driver side engine mount (x3 bolts) from the bottom, use a transmission jack or similar to raise the right side of the engine by an inch or two.
- Get b
king off significant other for using language that both the kids and the neighbours can hear.- Sit cross legged next to your car covered in road grime and rust whilst blinking furiously wondering whether the rust in your eye will actually blind you.
- Ponder setting the f***** thing on fire and just cycling to work in future.
AlexGSi2000 said:
I would potentially try an off-car clean first.
I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
Indeed. Ash can only be removed by agitation, reverse flushing and the right chemicals. The proper machines do a good job of it. Pouring £20 Wynns type chemicals into pressure sensor holes doesn't do a lot, if anything.I don't think the on-car cleaning methods are really as effective as the off-car method.
Either way, I think cleaning kicks the can down the road, I've seen the insides/honeycomb of some DPFs and I struggle to understand how they can truly be cleaned when the ash is almost as hard as the internals of the DPF itself.
When you're looking at £2500 + fitting for a new DPF, I think most people would be willing to try a clean first.
_Hoppers said:
Following this thread with interest!
After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Nothing wrong there. After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Personally I wouldn't get concerned about ash until it gets close to 100g.
My 2016 30d's ash content at 90k miles is only 14g.
It does 80 miles a day and has only used V Power diesel and I use 5W40 LL04 oil, not the crappy 0W30 stuff dealers put in.
Good fuel, good oil and regular use is all diesels need for a long life.
rottenegg said:
_Hoppers said:
Following this thread with interest!
After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Nothing wrong there. After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Personally I wouldn't get concerned about ash until it gets close to 100g.
My 2016 30d's ash content at 90k miles is only 14g.
It does 80 miles a day and has only used V Power diesel and I use 5W40 LL04 oil, not the crappy 0W30 stuff dealers put in.
Good fuel, good oil and regular use is all diesels need for a long life.
Ifinishposts said:
How could you tell it had done a re-gen?
I did a forced one with the Carly gadget and only knew something had happened when my totally uninterested wife said 'one of the numbers is changing'.
This thing is parked on the street and I am bothered about a sooty exhaust, surely this is a health hazard.
My uneducated opinion would be that your DPF has been gutted?I did a forced one with the Carly gadget and only knew something had happened when my totally uninterested wife said 'one of the numbers is changing'.
This thing is parked on the street and I am bothered about a sooty exhaust, surely this is a health hazard.
_Hoppers said:
rottenegg said:
_Hoppers said:
Following this thread with interest!
After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Nothing wrong there. After EGR air flow issues with my F30 320d I invested in the Bimmerlink app to monitor future engine lights etc. I've always been curious about DPF regens (Apart from a small handfuls of times the engine fans keep running after switch off, I've never been aware when the car is doing a regen) and the condition of the DPF. My commute to work is only 12.5 miles and I don't often do long trips, however, I haven't been aware of any issues with the DPF over the 6.5 years and +-70k miles I've owned the car.
Reading from Bimmerlink below, looking at the OP's stats I'm wondering if my DPF is starting to get clogged? I don't use the 320 much now as I've got an i3 for running about but the last two weekends I've done a couple of longish trips (an hour's driving each way, generally at motorway speeds) and both times the car has done a regen, approx 100miles between each one. What do you all reckon? Readings taken when engine not running.
Personally I wouldn't get concerned about ash until it gets close to 100g.
My 2016 30d's ash content at 90k miles is only 14g.
It does 80 miles a day and has only used V Power diesel and I use 5W40 LL04 oil, not the crappy 0W30 stuff dealers put in.
Good fuel, good oil and regular use is all diesels need for a long life.
_Hoppers said:
Ifinishposts said:
My uneducated opinion would be that your DPF has been gutted?Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff