uPVC window seal rubber not good enough
Discussion
I have either F104, F106 or F136 rubber seal strips on my uPVC windows.
https://gbdiystore.com/window-door-bubble-gasket-r...
The main lounge room window is a large unit and hinged from the top. There are no side locks, just 2 lock plates at the bottom. The window or frame must be slightly on the piss to the right side as it fouls on the plastic guide slightly when closing it unless I push the window over to the left a little. It's not an issue in itself, but the bottom left corner sits slightly away from the seal lip and so when it's windy the breeze pushes through the small gap and it's obviously cold there in the winter months.
Today I got some 8mm Weatherguard foam strip and stuck it along the front (inside) edge of the opening window (side and bottom) with the hope of it forming a tight seal against the rubber seal when closed and locked. The theory was sound, but in reality all it's done is 'twisted' that bottom left corner of the window frame even more, making the gap even larger. I tried mirroring the foam strip on the right hand side to 'balance' it out, but this didn't do anything to 'push' the left bottom corner back in, only succeeded in the window now being unable to close fully at all, because of too much foam padding thickness.
I've tried various combinations, including applying the foam strip to the outside of the fixed part of the window frame, positioned such so that the opening window closes onto it to force a right seal, but it was only a partial success and just moved the gaps elsewhere along the frame, which I couldn't pad because then the window won't close
.
The locking plates at the bottom are fixed and do not have adjustment and although I've been told that locking pins on the opening window have adjustmnent with an allen key, it's impossible to see them from inside the house.
This leaves me with the rubber seals themselves. They don't look to be old and squished to any less than their original depth. The lip looks to still be about 6mm in depth which is what they come as new. So my question is do these strips come any 'fatter' than the B035 profile at 8mm? I'd say there's another 5mm gap of daylight with some gentle pressing at the bottom corner beyond the 6mm depth of the seal currently there, so I have doubts that the B035 profile will be sufficient to seal the gap.
I've seen the self-adhesive weather strips with brushes which in theory should flex in the right places to allow the window to be shut, but the reviews are roughly split 50/50 with a lot saying they are a waste of money and don't work to stop the draughts
Replacing the frame is not an option, Anyone had this issue with their uPVC windows and found a good solution please?
https://gbdiystore.com/window-door-bubble-gasket-r...
The main lounge room window is a large unit and hinged from the top. There are no side locks, just 2 lock plates at the bottom. The window or frame must be slightly on the piss to the right side as it fouls on the plastic guide slightly when closing it unless I push the window over to the left a little. It's not an issue in itself, but the bottom left corner sits slightly away from the seal lip and so when it's windy the breeze pushes through the small gap and it's obviously cold there in the winter months.
Today I got some 8mm Weatherguard foam strip and stuck it along the front (inside) edge of the opening window (side and bottom) with the hope of it forming a tight seal against the rubber seal when closed and locked. The theory was sound, but in reality all it's done is 'twisted' that bottom left corner of the window frame even more, making the gap even larger. I tried mirroring the foam strip on the right hand side to 'balance' it out, but this didn't do anything to 'push' the left bottom corner back in, only succeeded in the window now being unable to close fully at all, because of too much foam padding thickness.
I've tried various combinations, including applying the foam strip to the outside of the fixed part of the window frame, positioned such so that the opening window closes onto it to force a right seal, but it was only a partial success and just moved the gaps elsewhere along the frame, which I couldn't pad because then the window won't close
.The locking plates at the bottom are fixed and do not have adjustment and although I've been told that locking pins on the opening window have adjustmnent with an allen key, it's impossible to see them from inside the house.
This leaves me with the rubber seals themselves. They don't look to be old and squished to any less than their original depth. The lip looks to still be about 6mm in depth which is what they come as new. So my question is do these strips come any 'fatter' than the B035 profile at 8mm? I'd say there's another 5mm gap of daylight with some gentle pressing at the bottom corner beyond the 6mm depth of the seal currently there, so I have doubts that the B035 profile will be sufficient to seal the gap.
I've seen the self-adhesive weather strips with brushes which in theory should flex in the right places to allow the window to be shut, but the reviews are roughly split 50/50 with a lot saying they are a waste of money and don't work to stop the draughts
Replacing the frame is not an option, Anyone had this issue with their uPVC windows and found a good solution please?
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