Discussion
I fancy a change of car. I've seen a 2014 M4 with 85,000 miles for £18,995 which i quite like the look of.
What are the things to look out for?
I've also read, which is putting me off a bit that the handling could be a bit tricky on these early cars, is there any simple things that can be done to these to improve things?
What are the things to look out for?
I've also read, which is putting me off a bit that the handling could be a bit tricky on these early cars, is there any simple things that can be done to these to improve things?
The map is a bit spiky but a remap smooths this out also a set of (these are normally softer than the originals & this smooths out the ride control) lowering springs.
They're a good car I'd suggest test driving one.
Also there are some good options out there:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502068...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502259...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202503059...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502279...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202408012...
They're a good car I'd suggest test driving one.
Also there are some good options out there:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502068...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502259...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202503059...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502279...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202408012...
There's a general feeling that the post LCI cars (2017) had some of the snappy handling dialed out. I had a late LCI (Dec 19) and apart from wet roads, the back end was pretty stable unless you floored it in which case you could spin up the rears in 4th easily! You can probably find an early LCI for low £20ks
ZX10R NIN said:
The handling isn't bad (far from it) but they're a little spiteful in certain circumstances as I said above these are simple things to sort out a map & a change of springs.
The Competition basically did this.
The 1st & 3rd would be the ones I'd investigate further.
My none comp is generally ok as you say. There are just the odd occasions if it is cold/damp or wet, and if you're even slightly heavy on the throttle, then it can bite though. The Competition basically did this.
The 1st & 3rd would be the ones I'd investigate further.
Plus if you go for a DCT car, then there isn't always a lot of modulation between the throttle/gearbox and the rear wheels, so it is dead easy to light the rears up, even with the traction fully on I've found.
I've found one i like in Sakhir orange. It has the interior carbon pack, also exterior but that isn't on the factory specs as i believe it was a dealer fit option??
83,000 miles BMW service history upto 71k, last service at 81k at specialist. Huge file of reciepts.
These are issues i've dug up from the t'interweb.
Anything else?
crank hub issue is the main problem with these (has crank hub been replaced)
Oil leaks -
rocker cover (smells of oil when driving)
oilfilter housing
sump
Tapping from cold start (1 minute) - exhaust cam shaft
Is Air conditioning working?
Coolant temperature sensor - dsg hangs onto gears
Cycle through settings (sport etc) because failing ABS sensor locks out some modes
83,000 miles BMW service history upto 71k, last service at 81k at specialist. Huge file of reciepts.
These are issues i've dug up from the t'interweb.
Anything else?
crank hub issue is the main problem with these (has crank hub been replaced)
Oil leaks -
rocker cover (smells of oil when driving)
oilfilter housing
sump
Tapping from cold start (1 minute) - exhaust cam shaft
Is Air conditioning working?
Coolant temperature sensor - dsg hangs onto gears
Cycle through settings (sport etc) because failing ABS sensor locks out some modes
Edited by Muzzman on Tuesday 18th March 09:41
I’ve got one.
Crank hub only really an issue on modified cars, consensus is standard power is fine.
Rocker cover can be an issue, just had mine replaced at £1000 all in.
Batteries are starting to need replacement on older cars and are £700 as they are lithium.
Look out for Smokey turbos.
Crank hub only really an issue on modified cars, consensus is standard power is fine.
Rocker cover can be an issue, just had mine replaced at £1000 all in.
Batteries are starting to need replacement on older cars and are £700 as they are lithium.
Look out for Smokey turbos.
Jamescrs said:
I’ve got one.
Crank hub only really an issue on modified cars, consensus is standard power is fine.
Rocker cover can be an issue, just had mine replaced at £1000 all in.
Batteries are starting to need replacement on older cars and are £700 as they are lithium.
Look out for Smokey turbos.
I watched a YouTube video and they said thay 99%, a car with 80,000miles will have a rocker cover leak.Crank hub only really an issue on modified cars, consensus is standard power is fine.
Rocker cover can be an issue, just had mine replaced at £1000 all in.
Batteries are starting to need replacement on older cars and are £700 as they are lithium.
Look out for Smokey turbos.
You know what i didn't even think about turbo's....doh
Try and get a decent test drive from cold on one you're considering.
When the rocker gasket was going on mine, you'd occasionally get a burning smell through the vents into the cabin.
Turbos on the way out should give a little cloud of smoke from the rear when you give it the beans, but you should be able to spot it in the mirror.
Check for a messy engine cover, if it's taking regular tops ups of oil (which the owner isn't telling you about) then there's a good chance of some spillage around there.
Track rod ends also needed doing on mine about 50k miles, so if they haven't been done then they may be needed soon.
Check the rear diff has had a service at some point, this is often overlooked as it doesn't flash up in the idrive - but I believe it's supposed to be done every (4th?) oil change. It's sub £100 but lots of people don't know it's required.
Other than that, these are nowhere near as fragile as you'd expect. Suspension holds up pretty well as they age and mine still felt just as sharp at 60k as it did at 25k when I bought it!
On a car of this age I personally wouldn't care about the running in service being done when new - but it puts a lot of people off so a car without one noted in the iDrive can be a hard sell later on.
When the rocker gasket was going on mine, you'd occasionally get a burning smell through the vents into the cabin.
Turbos on the way out should give a little cloud of smoke from the rear when you give it the beans, but you should be able to spot it in the mirror.
Check for a messy engine cover, if it's taking regular tops ups of oil (which the owner isn't telling you about) then there's a good chance of some spillage around there.
Track rod ends also needed doing on mine about 50k miles, so if they haven't been done then they may be needed soon.
Check the rear diff has had a service at some point, this is often overlooked as it doesn't flash up in the idrive - but I believe it's supposed to be done every (4th?) oil change. It's sub £100 but lots of people don't know it's required.
Other than that, these are nowhere near as fragile as you'd expect. Suspension holds up pretty well as they age and mine still felt just as sharp at 60k as it did at 25k when I bought it!
On a car of this age I personally wouldn't care about the running in service being done when new - but it puts a lot of people off so a car without one noted in the iDrive can be a hard sell later on.
I'm not sure I buy into the spikey handling trope that is applied to the F8* it's an exciting car to drive and is very much on its nose if you like, but any powerful RWD car will bite if you're stupid, I did 90,000 miles in my F80 M3 in all weathers and across Europe and it was fantastic, zero issues nothing broke or failed and it didn't spit me off the road.
I did get all the latest istep levels applied during the 3.5 years I had it (they released them often) and I also had a set of PS4S fitted and the M performance HAS kit installed, the PS4S improved traction but dumbed down the steering response compared the CSC5P.
Mine was an LCI but I did test drive the 2014 car when they came out, there was some talk at the time that the pre facelift cars couldn't be updated like the LCI cars due to the differences in the dampers but I may be misremembering that.
As with all M cars you're better off not buying at the bottom of the barrel as they can attract the wrong kind of owner once they drop below a certain price and that's when the trouble starts with things breaking.
I did get all the latest istep levels applied during the 3.5 years I had it (they released them often) and I also had a set of PS4S fitted and the M performance HAS kit installed, the PS4S improved traction but dumbed down the steering response compared the CSC5P.
Mine was an LCI but I did test drive the 2014 car when they came out, there was some talk at the time that the pre facelift cars couldn't be updated like the LCI cars due to the differences in the dampers but I may be misremembering that.
As with all M cars you're better off not buying at the bottom of the barrel as they can attract the wrong kind of owner once they drop below a certain price and that's when the trouble starts with things breaking.
Wills2 said:
I'm not sure I buy into the spikey handling trope that is applied to the F8* it's an exciting car to drive and is very much on its nose if you like, but any powerful RWD car will bite if you're stupid, I did 90,000 miles in my F80 M3 in all weathers and across Europe and it was fantastic, zero issues nothing broke or failed and it didn't spit me off the road.
Mine made me smile/laugh yesterday, because it was the first time I'd used full throttle in it for month down one of my favourite back roads. Usually if I'm having a bit of fun, I'd be in MDM, but I'd left traction fully on, and the traction light was flashing at me at a 100mph! 
It never really settles down unless you're on a really flat/smooth road for me, but that is one of the things that I like most about it though. It just always wants to spin the rears, and that is what makes it great fun I think.
Wills2 said:
I did get all the latest istep levels applied during the 3.5 years I had it (they released them often)
As with all M cars you're better off not buying at the bottom of the barrel as they can attract the wrong kind of owner once they drop below a certain price and that's when the trouble starts with things breaking.
What's istep?As with all M cars you're better off not buying at the bottom of the barrel as they can attract the wrong kind of owner once they drop below a certain price and that's when the trouble starts with things breaking.
I will admit that i'm buying at the bottom of the barrel, but it does seem a lovely car with FBMWSH and loads of receipts.
Hopefully i have snapped this one up just before it was about to fall into the wrong hands, because i will spend money when money is needed to be spent.
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