Drilling a steel lintel
Discussion
In my own house I've successfully put blinds and curtains up by using a masonry drill until I hit steel, then an HSS drill to make a hole in the lintel for a screw to self-tap into. Works very well.
But yesterday I was putting up a blind in a friend's house and try as I might, I could not make any useful impression on the steel...
I need to go back better armed. What drill is the best for steel? Cobalt?
But yesterday I was putting up a blind in a friend's house and try as I might, I could not make any useful impression on the steel...
I need to go back better armed. What drill is the best for steel? Cobalt?
Cobalt is good for drilling stainless steel so give it a go as the lintel might be made from stainless, if you break a few drill bits it could get expensive.
Or try using a self drilling bolt and make sure the bolt has a hex head as that will help with stability. Tek is a popular brand, other types are available.
Or try using a self drilling bolt and make sure the bolt has a hex head as that will help with stability. Tek is a popular brand, other types are available.
I had to use a centre punch on mine to start of with, then start off with a 3mm HSS bit before going to the final size.
Many lintels are perforated, and whilst your desired hole position might be perfectly aligned... more likely it'll be off by just enough that a wandering drill bit will find it.
A decent tap, tap, whack with a punch helped the little 3mm bit get some purchase and once you've got going it's just patience and pressure.
Many lintels are perforated, and whilst your desired hole position might be perfectly aligned... more likely it'll be off by just enough that a wandering drill bit will find it.
A decent tap, tap, whack with a punch helped the little 3mm bit get some purchase and once you've got going it's just patience and pressure.
Simpo Two said:
In my own house I've successfully put blinds and curtains up by using a masonry drill until I hit steel, then an HSS drill to make a hole in the lintel for a screw to self-tap into. Works very well.
But yesterday I was putting up a blind in a friend's house and try as I might, I could not make any useful impression on the steel...
I need to go back better armed. What drill is the best for steel? Cobalt?
Best drills I've used since an apprentice 50 years ago!!.........But yesterday I was putting up a blind in a friend's house and try as I might, I could not make any useful impression on the steel...
I need to go back better armed. What drill is the best for steel? Cobalt?
https://ttp-hard-drills.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopKa_NBt...
Tip: If you've been at it hard (especially in stainless) start a new hole as you may well have work-hardened the area.
Just start with a small HSS bit (no more than about 1mm). Apply firm but not massive pressure and keep the drill running at low speed, regularly checking that the bit isn't getting too hot (overheating the bit is will immediately destroy its ability to cut). Then once you have a guide hole, using continuously bigger bits should expand it with minimal difficulty.
In my experience, fancy bits (like the cobalt ones linked above) can take far more abuse and will last longer, but they don't actually cut better than cheap ones.
ETA: As above it's fairly unlikely for a domestic lintel to be made of stainless!
In my experience, fancy bits (like the cobalt ones linked above) can take far more abuse and will last longer, but they don't actually cut better than cheap ones.
ETA: As above it's fairly unlikely for a domestic lintel to be made of stainless!
Edited by kambites on Friday 14th March 15:27
Had to drill loads of holes in a stainless steel project years ago and came across the Dewalt Extreme bits, try not to use anything else on metal since. Cutting paste/ fluid also makes a huge difference.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-extreme-hex-shan...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob41-cut-tap-drill-flui...
On other stuff I've found the blue Bosch Expert multi-material excellent (great on brick where you want to just use rotary so not to blow the face off), generally found not had to use SDS but if I have to the Hilti TE-C with the cross head are really good.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-extreme-hex-shan...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob41-cut-tap-drill-flui...
On other stuff I've found the blue Bosch Expert multi-material excellent (great on brick where you want to just use rotary so not to blow the face off), generally found not had to use SDS but if I have to the Hilti TE-C with the cross head are really good.
I use dormer drill bits for metal. Sometimes may start with a 3mm bit, others straight with a 5.5mm bit.
Like above, keep pressure on, slow and if you can spray the bit, even better.
Drill often marks the paint in the reveal if it's right in the corner so maybe protect it with cardboard.
Like above, keep pressure on, slow and if you can spray the bit, even better.
Drill often marks the paint in the reveal if it's right in the corner so maybe protect it with cardboard.
Moz_BLY said:
Fit blinds part time and I dont think it is a lintel most likely a catnic? The guy I help has always used self tapping/drilling screws and impact driver. Hard work keeping it straight but has never failed and probably fitted 1000 of blinds this way.
That's interesting, where are you based ?Having fitted many blinds as said before, you may think you have hit metal, it maybe just extremely hard concrete. I always have some brand new metal drills to go at the lintel. Maybe drill a slightly bigger hole than 3mm and take a look in. Without knowing your target, you are going to struggle.
Thanks for all the ideas. There's a limit to how much pressure I can apply standing on a chair leaning over a sink, and besides, the drills were making no progress at all, not even my favourite 4mm Bosch one which is now blunt.
Hadn't heard of self-tapping bolts, but the screws that hold the little plastic brackets up have to have very small heads, otherwise they'll foul the top of the blind.
I think the best option might be to cut it down to fit in the recess and screw it to the window frame, if suitable.
Hadn't heard of self-tapping bolts, but the screws that hold the little plastic brackets up have to have very small heads, otherwise they'll foul the top of the blind.
I think the best option might be to cut it down to fit in the recess and screw it to the window frame, if suitable.
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