Vintage Rolex - what to look for?
Discussion
I'm after a 1980s Rolex (probably a Datejust), however there's quite a large market so have some questions:
- I've always loved the Jubilee bracelet but know they're prone to 'stretch'. How resolvable is this (i.e. can it be tightened) or should I look for one with minimal stretch from the off?
- I know there's been lots of changes over the years and these will be susceptible to modification. Is there anywhere which catalogues the original dials etc. to look for and not one from different model lines that's been added at some point?
- How important are box and papers for these years (assume command quite a premium given the time passed)?
- Anything else to look for (aside from authenticity, I'll be going via known ADs / sellers)?
A good specialist dealer or an AD should be able to confirm the watch’s provenance, and by the serial number tell whether it has been modified in some way.
Box and papers? Depends. I prefer to have but how special do YOU want the watch to be?
As for condition, I’d be interested when it was last serviced and by whom. Again, a reputable dealer should be giving an accurate description of what’s on sale. Try Hackett Watches. Dominic knows Rolex and is very fair.
Box and papers? Depends. I prefer to have but how special do YOU want the watch to be?
As for condition, I’d be interested when it was last serviced and by whom. Again, a reputable dealer should be giving an accurate description of what’s on sale. Try Hackett Watches. Dominic knows Rolex and is very fair.
Steel of steel/gold. If the latter expect the bracelet to have plenty of stretch unless it is 'box fresh'. They can be refurbished by third party specialist and not as I undertsand it by Rolex who will advise on a new bracelet. Fluted bezel will have plenty of wear at this age, from memory there was the steel (looks dull at this age) or white gold fluted option?
I'm presuming the 80s timepiece has some significance? If not buy a newer one.
Box/papers have some weight if looking to sell on as long as the condition of the watch supports it. Having a heavily worn overly polished and stretched jubilee bracelet but having a pristine box and papers is neither use nor ornament.
Only service that counts is the last one and at this age anyone competent doing Rolex would be good enough for me. I've used Watchdoctors in the past and excellent service at a good price. Looking at their website they don't advertise Rolex servicing but that could be a copyright/branding issue?
I'm presuming the 80s timepiece has some significance? If not buy a newer one.
Box/papers have some weight if looking to sell on as long as the condition of the watch supports it. Having a heavily worn overly polished and stretched jubilee bracelet but having a pristine box and papers is neither use nor ornament.
Only service that counts is the last one and at this age anyone competent doing Rolex would be good enough for me. I've used Watchdoctors in the past and excellent service at a good price. Looking at their website they don't advertise Rolex servicing but that could be a copyright/branding issue?
The Jubilee bracelets can be 'serviced' but it means using a special press to separate the links, remove the steel pins and force new pins in. If you look at the watch forums (or YouTube) you will find someone, but the super-nerds with £100k rare GMTs etc will only trust a handful of people in the world to do it. It's easy to scratch the links or get links back that were not on your watch. Usually scratched. Costs about £300 I think.
Black faces will fade slightly and lume go brown so new hands that Rolex put on 20 years ago look a bit odd. Maybe avoid white/roman numerals.
The steel fluting on a plexiglass Datejust is pretty resilient. The polished sides less so and old-style servicing will have polished quite a bit off. The watches have a 'dad' reputation but if you don't go steel/gold that can be mitigated and you will see them on some pretty groovy types today. Far more so than modern Subs or 41mm Datejusts. 36mm is the way to go. But it's each to their own, of course.
Black faces will fade slightly and lume go brown so new hands that Rolex put on 20 years ago look a bit odd. Maybe avoid white/roman numerals.
The steel fluting on a plexiglass Datejust is pretty resilient. The polished sides less so and old-style servicing will have polished quite a bit off. The watches have a 'dad' reputation but if you don't go steel/gold that can be mitigated and you will see them on some pretty groovy types today. Far more so than modern Subs or 41mm Datejusts. 36mm is the way to go. But it's each to their own, of course.
Be very careful, know what you are buying, know what affects the market value and if that’s something that adds value to YOU.
https://www.miltonaires.com/http://www.theoldwatchshop.com/military.htmlhttps://bulangandsons.eu/pages/homepage-watches are all great for vintage Rolex.
I would not pay a single penny for a box so many are marriages at best outright fake at worst. A box alone would make me very suspicious as I don’t believe many people would still have just the box for a 40 year old watch. The sort of person that would still have the box will have everything, the box, the tag the receipt etc. I would pay extra for that but not that much maybe 10%.
https://www.miltonaires.com/http://www.theoldwatchshop.com/military.htmlhttps://bulangandsons.eu/pages/homepage-watches are all great for vintage Rolex.
I would not pay a single penny for a box so many are marriages at best outright fake at worst. A box alone would make me very suspicious as I don’t believe many people would still have just the box for a 40 year old watch. The sort of person that would still have the box will have everything, the box, the tag the receipt etc. I would pay extra for that but not that much maybe 10%.
My mid 80's datejust has recently gone to Rolex for major service.
They will be fitting new Jubilee bracelet, new hands, new dial, new crown, new crystal glass.
I can't say I am happy about having the dial and hands replaced, but Rolex say dial and hands are scratched/cracked,
and luminous worn. (This is not something I noticed)
The watch was losing about a minute a day, so service was needed.
It will be an expensive service, but gives you an idea of what to expect might be replaced on an old Rolex.
They will be fitting new Jubilee bracelet, new hands, new dial, new crown, new crystal glass.
I can't say I am happy about having the dial and hands replaced, but Rolex say dial and hands are scratched/cracked,
and luminous worn. (This is not something I noticed)
The watch was losing about a minute a day, so service was needed.
It will be an expensive service, but gives you an idea of what to expect might be replaced on an old Rolex.
TownIdiot said:
You really don't need to get those parts replaced.
If you aren't happy - don't let them do it!
Too late now!If you aren't happy - don't let them do it!
The dial and hands will change the appearance slightly.
They did email me a picture of what the new dial would look like, and I made the decision it was not too different.
As I will be keeping the watch, the value will not be affected, and I should get back what looks like a new Rolex.
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