T350 Front calliper Brake upgrade
Discussion
When was the last time the fluid was changed and the system flushed? Suitable pads worth installing too.
Not sure what you're expecting. The factory set up are already quality 4-pots and the car weighs around the 1-ton mark. Given this type of set up works absolutely fine on cars weighing twice as much with OEM pads then it would suggest something else is going on if they are overheating / fluid boiling.
I seem to recall that the pads are from a [BMW] Mini. OEM ones haven't been fitted have they? Again, I have recollection that TVR fitted Ferodo DS2500 at the factory.
Other thing to check is if 'trackday' pads have been fitted. These don't like road use and can glaze over which gives really bad, wooden feeling braking. The previous owner of Tamy had fitted Yellowstuff pads. They were terrible until my second trackday when half way through the day they finally cleaned up and the car felt like it would flip over it's nose.
Other thing to check is which pivot hole has been used in the pedal box. If it is the upper one, drop it down to the lower one.
Not sure what you're expecting. The factory set up are already quality 4-pots and the car weighs around the 1-ton mark. Given this type of set up works absolutely fine on cars weighing twice as much with OEM pads then it would suggest something else is going on if they are overheating / fluid boiling.
I seem to recall that the pads are from a [BMW] Mini. OEM ones haven't been fitted have they? Again, I have recollection that TVR fitted Ferodo DS2500 at the factory.
Other thing to check is if 'trackday' pads have been fitted. These don't like road use and can glaze over which gives really bad, wooden feeling braking. The previous owner of Tamy had fitted Yellowstuff pads. They were terrible until my second trackday when half way through the day they finally cleaned up and the car felt like it would flip over it's nose.
Other thing to check is which pivot hole has been used in the pedal box. If it is the upper one, drop it down to the lower one.
Edited by mk1fan on Friday 7th March 17:01
Given the Blue are the next performance level up from Yellow then you need to be doing more trackdays than road driving to keep them 'clean'. The Yellow on Tamy were great as long as you were aggressive all the time or they would glaze over.
That said, the EBC Ultimax worked really well, if excessively dusty, on the daily Touran.
I've had no issues since reverting to Ferodo DS2500 compound front and rear on Tamy with a mix of track, road and touring.
As comparison, swapped to Mintex 1144 on Wendy (350i) when the OEM compounds barely lasted 8-mins on track. Even with a proper flush of the brake systems and renewal with quality DOT5.1 fluid still had bad fade. Swapped to 1144 and they just kept working. Came in a few times with them smoking yet still worked. Again, Wendy does trackdays, driving around and touring.
Both pad materials are well established know quantities.
If I were having brake issues on a T car then I would start with an inspection of the system, proper fluid flush and change, check the pedal arrangement and fit DS2500 all round.
That said, the EBC Ultimax worked really well, if excessively dusty, on the daily Touran.
I've had no issues since reverting to Ferodo DS2500 compound front and rear on Tamy with a mix of track, road and touring.
As comparison, swapped to Mintex 1144 on Wendy (350i) when the OEM compounds barely lasted 8-mins on track. Even with a proper flush of the brake systems and renewal with quality DOT5.1 fluid still had bad fade. Swapped to 1144 and they just kept working. Came in a few times with them smoking yet still worked. Again, Wendy does trackdays, driving around and touring.
Both pad materials are well established know quantities.
If I were having brake issues on a T car then I would start with an inspection of the system, proper fluid flush and change, check the pedal arrangement and fit DS2500 all round.
I've not used ebc pads but having a quick scan online as to how theyre rated, a step up could be the ds2500. I use them on my road car they are fantastic. If you're pushing on track though they will only take so much so perhaps the ds1.11 would suit. I use them and they have been just fantastic. Make sure you bed them in properly and when you're at the track do a cool down lap. Hth
Ps I understand you want the stronger pads on the front. Eg my ds2500 are on the front and standards on the rear. Then on my track car is ds1.11 front and ds2500 rear.
Ps I understand you want the stronger pads on the front. Eg my ds2500 are on the front and standards on the rear. Then on my track car is ds1.11 front and ds2500 rear.
Can I suggest, that if this a road car using DS2500 or M1144 that you do two builds, swapping the pads in the caliper (in for out after you have attempted to bed the pad in). Both materials are as such compressed powder until bedded in (through experience on four of my current TVR's, I have never be able to get the internal pad to bed in). I put the rear DS2500 on my Tamora in the boot (for when they may be needed) and went for Apex ABS quality (that now clean the inside of the disc and work perfectly well).
DS2500 fitted to my AP 4 pots on my Taimar turbo, the two inner pads on the left, had been in/on my Taimar turbo for 24 years. and never ever bedded in!
(Yes, I followed the bed-in instructions, one the road and the Taimar turbo was sprinted several times and did one Mallory park track day) I have had the same issues on the Tamora, Griff and Chim.
A@
DS2500 fitted to my AP 4 pots on my Taimar turbo, the two inner pads on the left, had been in/on my Taimar turbo for 24 years. and never ever bedded in!
(Yes, I followed the bed-in instructions, one the road and the Taimar turbo was sprinted several times and did one Mallory park track day) I have had the same issues on the Tamora, Griff and Chim.
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 10th March 18:16
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