Steering universal joints
Discussion
Hello.
I have to change the upper power steering seal so I have to take apart joints and column to do so.
Unfortunately upper joint seems to be stuck and they are both full of rust.
So, two questions:
1 Do you have steering universal joints commercial part number?
2 Could you please advise me about how to take apart and changing these?
Hope to hear yours soon!
Regards!
Andrea (TVR Cerbera speed 6)
I have to change the upper power steering seal so I have to take apart joints and column to do so.
Unfortunately upper joint seems to be stuck and they are both full of rust.
So, two questions:
1 Do you have steering universal joints commercial part number?
2 Could you please advise me about how to take apart and changing these?
Hope to hear yours soon!
Regards!
Andrea (TVR Cerbera speed 6)
BritishTvr450 said:
I’d suggest you measure the length of yours accurately and count the splines very carefully before ordering or until someone confirms the one you show is the correct one.
You're right but to measure it or count the splines I have to take apart mine and I'm really afraid it will broken during the operation..... Me again...
Quite sure this are good:
https://www.carbuilder.com/products/forged-univers...
Found trying to knows dimensions.
Half the price of what TVR specialists sell.
Still trying to understand dimensions of Land Rover ones.
Mine still won't go out in the meanwhile....
Quite sure this are good:
https://www.carbuilder.com/products/forged-univers...
Found trying to knows dimensions.
Half the price of what TVR specialists sell.
Still trying to understand dimensions of Land Rover ones.
Mine still won't go out in the meanwhile....
There is a problem with the flats that are machined on some racks, the flat is too long
This means that when you tighten the UJ sufficiently to remove play, because UJ is clamped around the section with the flat, the UJ becomes permanently distorted, and therefore near impossible to remove
This means that when you tighten the UJ sufficiently to remove play, because UJ is clamped around the section with the flat, the UJ becomes permanently distorted, and therefore near impossible to remove
ukkid35 said:
There is a problem with the flats that are machined on some racks, the flat is too long
This means that when you tighten the UJ sufficiently to remove play, because UJ is clamped around the section with the flat, the UJ becomes permanently distorted, and therefore near impossible to remove
I can't understand if there isn't enough space or if something it's stuck.This means that when you tighten the UJ sufficiently to remove play, because UJ is clamped around the section with the flat, the UJ becomes permanently distorted, and therefore near impossible to remove
The steering half colum moves up and down but I can't put off any of the joints.
Don't understand if I have to remove/loose something else too.
I'm thinking about destroy one UJ also but I have to take a new UJ first....
When I took mine off, it was very difficult, I took the bolts out, tapped a small chisel on the joints to spread the clamps slightly to allow the rod to move up and down. I then moved all the joints and rod up to the steering column. The pivot on the lower joint needs to be parallel to the length of the rack and only then will the joint lift up and off the steering rack, I remember it was only millimetres clearance…a real pain to do. If fact when I reassembled the steering was a tooth off…it took a couple of years to forget the pain & fix the issue..
If it’s anything like a Chimaera set up the only way I could get enough clearance to pull the shaft out of the UJ was to loosen the 4 steering rack bolts out about 7mm leaving just enough threads in the chassis to keep the rack in place.
This now allowed me to push the rack forward and away with the lower uj enough to pull the shaft out of the uj at the top.
This now allowed me to push the rack forward and away with the lower uj enough to pull the shaft out of the uj at the top.
Thanks to all.
Unfortunately the universal joints are so stuck that I broke the upper one trying to remove it. Now the steering has yoke when turning. I stopped everything and ordered two new universal joints: going forward it could only get worse and I would have been left with the car without steering and therefore stationary.
Hope to solve soon and without other problems but really afraid about UJ replacement.....
Unfortunately the universal joints are so stuck that I broke the upper one trying to remove it. Now the steering has yoke when turning. I stopped everything and ordered two new universal joints: going forward it could only get worse and I would have been left with the car without steering and therefore stationary.
Hope to solve soon and without other problems but really afraid about UJ replacement.....
Supateg said:
When I took mine off, it was very difficult, I took the bolts out, tapped a small chisel on the joints to spread the clamps slightly to allow the rod to move up and down. I then moved all the joints and rod up to the steering column. The pivot on the lower joint needs to be parallel to the length of the rack and only then will the joint lift up and off the steering rack, I remember it was only millimetres clearance…a real pain to do. If fact when I reassembled the steering was a tooth off…it took a couple of years to forget the pain & fix the issue..
The pinion UJ on my Tuscan was a real pain to get off first time I did it. I had to use screw drivers and chisels to open up the clamp enough to release it then lever it off against the end of the pinion.Hi Andrea 
There is so little play in the system that you need to undo the bottom one first (13mm locknut iirc).
Although mine was well-lubricated by various leaks, I had to remove my lowest, flexible, Coolant Hose to get a good access.
The upper UJ, however, was encrusted in the filth that the driver's tyre throws at it.
You just need to regularly soak it in a light oil / acetone mix and then use brute force, and a cold chisel, to get it off its spline.
The 2 ends of the UJs have different sizes so be careful of the suppliers you use - mine were idiots !
Just found These Guys who offer quality products.
Replace the locknuts & bolts with high-tensile items because you'll need a LOT of torque to close the UJ splines back up again tightly enough to avoid any play.
To avoid a similar imbalace in UJ condition, I put the upper one in a rubber gaitor packed with LM Grease.
There is so little play in the system that you need to undo the bottom one first (13mm locknut iirc).
Although mine was well-lubricated by various leaks, I had to remove my lowest, flexible, Coolant Hose to get a good access.
The upper UJ, however, was encrusted in the filth that the driver's tyre throws at it.
You just need to regularly soak it in a light oil / acetone mix and then use brute force, and a cold chisel, to get it off its spline.
The 2 ends of the UJs have different sizes so be careful of the suppliers you use - mine were idiots !
Just found These Guys who offer quality products.
Replace the locknuts & bolts with high-tensile items because you'll need a LOT of torque to close the UJ splines back up again tightly enough to avoid any play.
To avoid a similar imbalace in UJ condition, I put the upper one in a rubber gaitor packed with LM Grease.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Monday 24th February 11:03
Mr Cerbera said:
Hi Andrea
There is so little play in the system that you need to undo the bottom one first (13mm locknut iirc).
Although mine was well-lubricated by various leaks, I had to remove my lowest, flexible, Coolant Hose to get a good access.
The upper UJ, however, was encrusted in the filth that the driver's tyre throws at it.
You just need to regularly soak it in a light oil / acetone mix and then use brute force, and a cold chisel, to get it off its spline.
The 2 ends of the UJs have different sizes so be careful of the suppliers you use - mine were idiots !
Just found These Guys who offer quality products.
Replace the locknuts & bolts with high-tensile items because you'll need a LOT of torque to close the UJ splines back up again tightly enough to avoid any play.
To avoid a similar imbalace in UJ condition, I put the upper one in a rubber gaitor packed with LM Grease.
Hi Mr Cerbera!There is so little play in the system that you need to undo the bottom one first (13mm locknut iirc).
Although mine was well-lubricated by various leaks, I had to remove my lowest, flexible, Coolant Hose to get a good access.
The upper UJ, however, was encrusted in the filth that the driver's tyre throws at it.
You just need to regularly soak it in a light oil / acetone mix and then use brute force, and a cold chisel, to get it off its spline.
The 2 ends of the UJs have different sizes so be careful of the suppliers you use - mine were idiots !
Just found These Guys who offer quality products.
Replace the locknuts & bolts with high-tensile items because you'll need a LOT of torque to close the UJ splines back up again tightly enough to avoid any play.
To avoid a similar imbalace in UJ condition, I put the upper one in a rubber gaitor packed with LM Grease.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Monday 24th February 11:03
Thanks a lot for your help.
I'll try again as soon ad I can and let you know.....but I'm thinking to let this work to my mechanic cause I suspect it will be a time consuming job and time is something I haven't at the moment...
Andrea7 said:
Hi Mr Cerbera!
Thanks a lot for your help.
I'll try again as soon ad I can and let you know.....but I'm thinking to let this work to my mechanic cause I suspect it will be a time consuming job and time is something I haven't at the moment...
I understand your situation very well, Andrea.Thanks a lot for your help.
I'll try again as soon ad I can and let you know.....but I'm thinking to let this work to my mechanic cause I suspect it will be a time consuming job and time is something I haven't at the moment...
Now that I'm retired, I don't have the spondoolies to pay another (not that I trust someone else to do the work)
BUT
I have a lot of time (which is why my'project' has taken almost 7 years !
Actually, it has ust dawned on me that I have been working on this 'upgrade' for longer than I've ever owned another car
Almost done......
Now I can say that slacken the steering rack it is mandatory to do the work.
I asked some help to my mechanic to continue the work fo time reason as I told you.
I can also say that UJ I linked above are perfect: they fit perfectly and Seems to be of good quality too.
So consider Car Builder Solution as another supplier for Cerbera UJ.
Now I can say that slacken the steering rack it is mandatory to do the work.
I asked some help to my mechanic to continue the work fo time reason as I told you.
I can also say that UJ I linked above are perfect: they fit perfectly and Seems to be of good quality too.
So consider Car Builder Solution as another supplier for Cerbera UJ.
Hello.
REALLY NEED YOUR HELP:
As I told you before, my mechanic finished the work I started.
We have a problem: everything It's done and works, the leak is over But steering is out of center.
On the forum I found a couple of posts which speak about the procedure about how to take apart the steering wheel but I tried to do this and nothing I found corrispond to what I readed.
How can I take apart the steering and center it again?
Thanks for your help
P. S. I have done the same operation on a few cars (Lotus and Caterham) but they usually works on a splines connection which allows you to center the steering wheel indipently from the steering column and rack settig....
Here I can't understand how to do it.
Please take a look of these pictures:
REALLY NEED YOUR HELP:
As I told you before, my mechanic finished the work I started.
We have a problem: everything It's done and works, the leak is over But steering is out of center.
On the forum I found a couple of posts which speak about the procedure about how to take apart the steering wheel but I tried to do this and nothing I found corrispond to what I readed.
How can I take apart the steering and center it again?
Thanks for your help
P. S. I have done the same operation on a few cars (Lotus and Caterham) but they usually works on a splines connection which allows you to center the steering wheel indipently from the steering column and rack settig....
Here I can't understand how to do it.
Please take a look of these pictures:
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