Drive shaft nut

Author
Discussion

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
Ok, I've not had the wheel off yet to look but read the guidance in the manual and it says to undo the driveshaft hub nut first you have to release the stalking.

What on earth is stalking, I've never heard of anything described as such.

TwinKam

3,333 posts

110 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
Staking. No 'L'.
Where a soft portion of the nut collar is driven (or 'staked') into a groove in the shaft, to lock it.
Sometimes they will 'unstake' themselves as you undo them, sometimes the collar tears, sometimes you can get a fine chisel in the groove to 'un-stake' it. In any case, renew the nut, once-only use.

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
Cheers fella, I look forward to trying this

Arnold Cunningham

4,265 posts

268 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
And be prepared for the nut to be FT. I have a 3/4” extra long breaker bar that usually gets called in to action for the driveshaft nut. After I bent my 1/2” one.

InitialDave

13,224 posts

134 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
A narrow chisel ground to size is my preferred tool for removing the staking.

Before you start, check you have an appropriate socket. Some manufacturers use 12pt nuts, in which case a 6pt socket won't do you much good.

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
Maybe I need to buy an impact wrench

InitialDave

13,224 posts

134 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
A500leroy said:
Maybe I need to buy an impact wrench
If you're looking for an excuse to man-maths your way into one, sure, but a big breaker bar and some muscle almost always works.

The trick is to put the wheel back on with the centre cap removed and lower the weight of the car back onto it, then undo the nut. I did once have one so tight that the necessary torque just skidded the tyre on the driveway, but the addition of a wedge for the tyre to bite in to resolved that.

Richard-D

1,469 posts

79 months

Thursday 23rd January
quotequote all
Be aware some cars are left-handed thread on one side whilst others are right handed thread on both.

E-bmw

11,051 posts

167 months

Friday 24th January
quotequote all
A500leroy said:
Maybe I need to buy an impact wrench
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.

Best way is generally recruit a passenger to stand on the brake pedal and use the best socket/bar combination you can get your hands on as they are FT.

normalbloke

8,071 posts

234 months

Friday 24th January
quotequote all
E-bmw said:
A500leroy said:
Maybe I need to buy an impact wrench
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.

Best way is generally recruit a passenger to stand on the brake pedal and use the best socket/bar combination you can get your hands on as they are FT.
I disagree…


InitialDave

13,224 posts

134 months

Friday 24th January
quotequote all
A half decent impact gun will be fine on a driveshaft nut unless it's really bad.

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Friday 24th January
quotequote all
Sod it, ordered one .

normalbloke

8,071 posts

234 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
A500leroy said:
Sod it, ordered one .
You can’t leave it at that, we need more details man!

Arnold Cunningham

4,265 posts

268 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
And then we can take the mick if it doesn’t have enough ugga duggas.

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
Arnold Cunningham said:
And then we can take the mick if it doesn’t have enough ugga duggas.
Silver line 400 corded.

InitialDave

13,224 posts

134 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
A500leroy said:
Silver line 400 corded.
Hmm.

That looks like it's 350Nm/260lb.ft

I'm dubious, but see how you get on.

Jakg

3,778 posts

183 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
E-bmw said:
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.
Maybe I've been lucky then...

Staked nut:


I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
  • tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
  • tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
  • re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)

A500leroy

Original Poster:

6,749 posts

133 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
Jakg said:
E-bmw said:
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.
Maybe I've been lucky then...

Staked nut:


I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
  • tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
  • tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
  • re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)
Thanks for the pic fella
I've brought new nuts.

GreenV8S

30,859 posts

299 months

Saturday 25th January
quotequote all
Jakg said:
I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
  • tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
  • tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
  • re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)
My approach for high torque fasteners is to work out how much leverage it needs for my weight to produce the right torque, and then hang off the bar at the right distance. This works out much cheaper than buying 'koff big torque wrenches.

Arnold Cunningham

4,265 posts

268 months

Sunday 26th January
quotequote all
On my old Audi it was a 16mm fine thread bolt. 190Nm IIRC, plus 180 degrees. Getting the 190Nm was easy enough, but the full 180 degrees extra was when I bent my 1/2 breaker bar - since I needed a good bit of scaffold bar on the end to torque it up. In fairness, a conventional nut will be a whole lot easier and in my comments above I was thinking about the Audi since that's the last driveshaft I did. More conventional driveshaft nut will be a lot easier.