Drive shaft nut
Discussion
Staking. No 'L'.
Where a soft portion of the nut collar is driven (or 'staked') into a groove in the shaft, to lock it.
Sometimes they will 'unstake' themselves as you undo them, sometimes the collar tears, sometimes you can get a fine chisel in the groove to 'un-stake' it. In any case, renew the nut, once-only use.
Where a soft portion of the nut collar is driven (or 'staked') into a groove in the shaft, to lock it.
Sometimes they will 'unstake' themselves as you undo them, sometimes the collar tears, sometimes you can get a fine chisel in the groove to 'un-stake' it. In any case, renew the nut, once-only use.
A500leroy said:
Maybe I need to buy an impact wrench
If you're looking for an excuse to man-maths your way into one, sure, but a big breaker bar and some muscle almost always works.The trick is to put the wheel back on with the centre cap removed and lower the weight of the car back onto it, then undo the nut. I did once have one so tight that the necessary torque just skidded the tyre on the driveway, but the addition of a wedge for the tyre to bite in to resolved that.
E-bmw said:
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.
Maybe I've been lucky then...Staked nut:

I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
- tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
- tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
- re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)
Jakg said:
E-bmw said:
An impact wrench is extremely unlikely to undo a driveshaft nut.
Maybe I've been lucky then...Staked nut:

I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
- tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
- tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
- re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)
I've brought new nuts.
Jakg said:
I'd be less concerned how you undo it and more about how you do the it up tight enough:
My approach for high torque fasteners is to work out how much leverage it needs for my weight to produce the right torque, and then hang off the bar at the right distance. This works out much cheaper than buying 'koff big torque wrenches.- tighten with a torque wrench (but usually you need a very big one)
- tighten up very-FT and hope that's enough
- re-use the nut, tighten until staking lines up (rough!)
On my old Audi it was a 16mm fine thread bolt. 190Nm IIRC, plus 180 degrees. Getting the 190Nm was easy enough, but the full 180 degrees extra was when I bent my 1/2 breaker bar - since I needed a good bit of scaffold bar on the end to torque it up. In fairness, a conventional nut will be a whole lot easier and in my comments above I was thinking about the Audi since that's the last driveshaft I did. More conventional driveshaft nut will be a lot easier.
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