Replacing an elderly Gledhill heating system
Discussion
My house has a Boilermate 2000 served by a Prima boiler.
This is becoming more troublesome but has served me well for 12 years and is now 22 years old and I think it’s time to replace it.
I do like the fact I get instant stored hot water on demand and the hot water runs at the same pressure as the cold, my showers have fantastic pressure.
Can anyone recommend a similar alternative system?
My neighbour replaced his with a combi system and the shower pressure is now rubbish.
This is becoming more troublesome but has served me well for 12 years and is now 22 years old and I think it’s time to replace it.
I do like the fact I get instant stored hot water on demand and the hot water runs at the same pressure as the cold, my showers have fantastic pressure.
Can anyone recommend a similar alternative system?
My neighbour replaced his with a combi system and the shower pressure is now rubbish.
Acorn1 said:
Simpo Two said:
You need a 'heat only' boiler.
Mine is 36 years old and still going.
The boiler is OK, one of the pumps in the tank keeps crapping out intermittently and Gledhill don’t make them anymore.Mine is 36 years old and still going.
I've had to replace the PCB a few times but our Boilermate 2000 is a decent bit of kit, still going strong after 23 years.
I think I'd only replace it with an unvented system as I believe the Boliermate was an intermediate step before unvented systems were allowed.
Great information, thank you, so a Grundfos pump is compatible.
I have. BG service contract and more than one engineer has told me you can’t get the pumps anymore?
I know there’s 3 pumps on the tank but not sure what they all do?
Looking at the photo it”s the one on the right that’s troublesome.
I have. BG service contract and more than one engineer has told me you can’t get the pumps anymore?
I know there’s 3 pumps on the tank but not sure what they all do?
Looking at the photo it”s the one on the right that’s troublesome.
Edited by Acorn1 on Saturday 11th January 09:46
Yes you can just put a 5m head pump in and it will run just fine. I used to repair loads of these back in the day, way over complicated for what they do.
One pump is primary water from boiler to store one is for the heating system and the other is to move water around the plate heat exchanger that generates hot water to your taps.
If you can get the pressure relief valve discharge outside just fit an unvented cylinder on an S plan
Good luck
Jg
One pump is primary water from boiler to store one is for the heating system and the other is to move water around the plate heat exchanger that generates hot water to your taps.
If you can get the pressure relief valve discharge outside just fit an unvented cylinder on an S plan
Good luck
Jg
Thank you.
I have BG coming out again on Monday.
It’s an odd problem I have, in that the boiler fails to fire up despite my Hive saying it’s heating on cold mornings.
In the afternoon or at night it seems to work fine.
Logic would dictate it’s some sort of thermostat issue, however the BG guys keep saying it’s the pump?
I have BG coming out again on Monday.
It’s an odd problem I have, in that the boiler fails to fire up despite my Hive saying it’s heating on cold mornings.
In the afternoon or at night it seems to work fine.
Logic would dictate it’s some sort of thermostat issue, however the BG guys keep saying it’s the pump?
I might be wrong but I think you can turn that screw in the middle of the pump which will tell you if its seized.
Sounds like similar symptoms to what I had. If the pump isn't working then the water in the boiler will get upto the return temp and shut the boiler off.
Atleast that's what I believed was happening. You can interrogate the thermal store for error codes but I'd have to Google how to do it to remind myself.
Sounds like similar symptoms to what I had. If the pump isn't working then the water in the boiler will get upto the return temp and shut the boiler off.
Atleast that's what I believed was happening. You can interrogate the thermal store for error codes but I'd have to Google how to do it to remind myself.
ChocolateFrog said:
I might be wrong but I think you can turn that screw in the middle of the pump which will tell you if its seized.
Pretty sure the slot in the middle of the pump is just a cover... but once unscrewed, you can get to a slot in the impeller which should be free moving.When I have done this, the tollerances are tight enough that the water doesn't pour out, so you don't need to drain down to do it.
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