Compound Mitre Saw Set Up
Discussion
Morning Folks
I am in the process of sorting out my Man shed/Workspace at home and I fancy doing some DIY woodworking.
It is roughly 7 metres long by 2 metres wide. It is split with a partition wall and door at around the 4 metre mark. This leaves me with around 3 metres by 2 metre space to have as a small home workshop. It is a clean piece of paper job at the minute so lots of options.
I want to make a couple of new gates and a few other projects around the garden so I want to set up a combination Mitre Saw. I am new to woodworking but am an Engineer by trade so used to cutting tools, safety, dust extraction etc.
I am going to go with a wired Saw, possibly a De Walt or similar so a decent spec, not one from Aldi. Has anyone done this that could share some photos. There are ton's of designs online and lots of video's on YouTube but the issue is I don't know what I don't know.
I don't want to throw money away but want to end up with a set up were I can cut pieces of wood to the same lengths/angles etc, have decent dust extraction and not remove any digit's or limbs in the process?
Any tips or nuggets of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Brian
I am in the process of sorting out my Man shed/Workspace at home and I fancy doing some DIY woodworking.
It is roughly 7 metres long by 2 metres wide. It is split with a partition wall and door at around the 4 metre mark. This leaves me with around 3 metres by 2 metre space to have as a small home workshop. It is a clean piece of paper job at the minute so lots of options.
I want to make a couple of new gates and a few other projects around the garden so I want to set up a combination Mitre Saw. I am new to woodworking but am an Engineer by trade so used to cutting tools, safety, dust extraction etc.
I am going to go with a wired Saw, possibly a De Walt or similar so a decent spec, not one from Aldi. Has anyone done this that could share some photos. There are ton's of designs online and lots of video's on YouTube but the issue is I don't know what I don't know.
I don't want to throw money away but want to end up with a set up were I can cut pieces of wood to the same lengths/angles etc, have decent dust extraction and not remove any digit's or limbs in the process?
Any tips or nuggets of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Brian
I bought a Dewalt compound sliding mitre saw around 15 years ago - it's one of the old ELU models that Dewalt continued with after they swallowed up Elu (who were a superb firm).
It's the best tool I have ever bought and I've done so many projects with it it must have paid for itself many, many time over. I love the thing!
I bought the folding stand for it a few years ago when I fitted a new kitchen and skirtings to my daughters house and it's a game changer - worth having as you often want to be doing jobs insitu so to speak rather than in your workshop. The stand only cost around £185 which I think was cheap - the saw was around £375 15 years ago - a tool for life, still tight as a drum
I think a lot of Dewalt stuff is made in China now - probably doesn't matter too much these days but I prefer the European/Italian built stuff.
It's the best tool I have ever bought and I've done so many projects with it it must have paid for itself many, many time over. I love the thing!
I bought the folding stand for it a few years ago when I fitted a new kitchen and skirtings to my daughters house and it's a game changer - worth having as you often want to be doing jobs insitu so to speak rather than in your workshop. The stand only cost around £185 which I think was cheap - the saw was around £375 15 years ago - a tool for life, still tight as a drum
I think a lot of Dewalt stuff is made in China now - probably doesn't matter too much these days but I prefer the European/Italian built stuff.
Sounds like a good project, so happy times ahead for you.
I would have a think about what you are going to be doing in there, a mitre saw set up permanently might be fantastic for the few times you use it but then in the way all the rest of the time. You are working with a compact space and I would suggest you would benefit with keeping it as flexible as possible.
Look into getting a track saw, much more versatile as a tool, takes up a lot less space and can perform almost the same tasks as the saw you are looking at if you fit a hinged track.
Peter Millard has a work shop not much bigger and his set up looks well though out and uses a track saw extensively.
link to his workshop tour. https://youtu.be/Hj01UYo8Y1s?si=RoKrElaYHUthggzF
I would have a think about what you are going to be doing in there, a mitre saw set up permanently might be fantastic for the few times you use it but then in the way all the rest of the time. You are working with a compact space and I would suggest you would benefit with keeping it as flexible as possible.
Look into getting a track saw, much more versatile as a tool, takes up a lot less space and can perform almost the same tasks as the saw you are looking at if you fit a hinged track.
Peter Millard has a work shop not much bigger and his set up looks well though out and uses a track saw extensively.
link to his workshop tour. https://youtu.be/Hj01UYo8Y1s?si=RoKrElaYHUthggzF
If you end up with a saw which you put away and get out each time, rather than permanently set up, think about what size you need
A few years ago I bought a sliding compound saw and went for the biggest one available, on the basis it will cover the biggest range of jobs (and bigger is always better, right?)
It's been useful, but it's big so difficult to store our of the way, heavy so a faff to dig out, and spends most of the time just taking up space. I kind of wish I had gone for something smaller, which would both be easier to hide away when not in use, and I'd probably get more use out of being easier to grab and move around
A few years ago I bought a sliding compound saw and went for the biggest one available, on the basis it will cover the biggest range of jobs (and bigger is always better, right?)
It's been useful, but it's big so difficult to store our of the way, heavy so a faff to dig out, and spends most of the time just taking up space. I kind of wish I had gone for something smaller, which would both be easier to hide away when not in use, and I'd probably get more use out of being easier to grab and move around
You've probably already seen this but the best setups I've seen on YT etc have the mitre saw sat in a lipped well which makes the base plate level with the bench to the left and the right, such that the saw is not permanently mounted and you can remove it and put a cover on the well if you just need a long work bench.
jamgy said:
It's been useful, but it's big so difficult to store our of the way, heavy so a faff to dig out, and spends most of the time just taking up space. I kind of wish I had gone for something smaller, which would both be easier to hide away when not in use, and I'd probably get more use out of being easier to grab and move around
Exactly this, I also have a big bugger but it lives at the back of the dumping shed and comes out once ever two years. Got a track saw which is just as you say easy to grab to use and put away. Buy a saw and stand similar to the one pictured above and cut outside with a 3x3 pop up gazebo giving you shelter if needed.
A 3x2 workshop isn’t big enough to set up a dedicated saw bench set up, unless you are going to be dealing in fairly short lengths of wood, which will need to be rough cut to size before use and constantly flipped over.
A 3x2 workshop isn’t big enough to set up a dedicated saw bench set up, unless you are going to be dealing in fairly short lengths of wood, which will need to be rough cut to size before use and constantly flipped over.
Thanks everyone, appreciate you all taking the time to reply. I'm going to watch that workshop tour tonight after work but will also look at the stand option too as that could work.
The only issue with the outdoor option is the mess but I do have a garage so I suppose I could use one in there and just brush/hoover up afterwards. Nice things for me to ponder.
Cheers
Brian
The only issue with the outdoor option is the mess but I do have a garage so I suppose I could use one in there and just brush/hoover up afterwards. Nice things for me to ponder.
Cheers
Brian
As 48K posted you could build a bench with a well in the centre to accommodate a mitre saw, but sliding mitre saws need quite a bit of depth for clearance.
So your bench will be off the wall or possibly deeper than 600mm. Alternatively you could buy an mft style table, I’ve got 3 of these in my shop but the mitre saw one also goes on site with me, yes I’ve replaced the tops but I have an mft jig so it’s an easy thing to do.
Here it is on site and I use a roller to support the lengths, the reason I use this instead of a mitre saw stand is you’ve got more flexibility and can cut scribes on it as a bench etc, mitre saw is clamped from the back.
But I also have a larger mft top that’s always on site on top of a pair of saw stools,
As with anything you adapt it to suit how you work and find it easier, those mft tables are £64 each, hence why I bought 3, middle one is a router table and the last one is an infeed, out feed for the router table/ assembley table. The tops that come with them are fine just not what I wanted for my use.
Using those you can move, adjust to suit what you’re doing in your shop or alternatively on the other side of my shop I’ve got proper benches, again I did the tops with my mft jig but that’s not necessary, if you were to put a well in one you could always make a piece to drop over it for the times you are not using your saw and want full bench working space.
M class dust extraction is a must with mitre saws.
So your bench will be off the wall or possibly deeper than 600mm. Alternatively you could buy an mft style table, I’ve got 3 of these in my shop but the mitre saw one also goes on site with me, yes I’ve replaced the tops but I have an mft jig so it’s an easy thing to do.
Here it is on site and I use a roller to support the lengths, the reason I use this instead of a mitre saw stand is you’ve got more flexibility and can cut scribes on it as a bench etc, mitre saw is clamped from the back.
But I also have a larger mft top that’s always on site on top of a pair of saw stools,
As with anything you adapt it to suit how you work and find it easier, those mft tables are £64 each, hence why I bought 3, middle one is a router table and the last one is an infeed, out feed for the router table/ assembley table. The tops that come with them are fine just not what I wanted for my use.
Using those you can move, adjust to suit what you’re doing in your shop or alternatively on the other side of my shop I’ve got proper benches, again I did the tops with my mft jig but that’s not necessary, if you were to put a well in one you could always make a piece to drop over it for the times you are not using your saw and want full bench working space.
M class dust extraction is a must with mitre saws.
Edited by Promised Land on Wednesday 8th January 15:56
brian_H said:
I am going to go with a wired Saw, possibly a De Walt or similar so a decent spec, not one from Aldi. Has anyone done this that could share some photos.
I rarely need a sliding function in a mitre saw but I do need a table saw. So if space is limited consider a table/mitre saw, eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-LH1201FL-Table-Mit...I have an Evolution one and it's been invaluable.
Left field choice, I’m very similar to you with an almost identical sized work area and I’ve set up my small Elektra Beckum table saw which has a sliding carriage.
I also have a DeWalt 12’’ mitre saw and the same stand as Loto above, both of which are gathering dust. The EB does a lot of the things the DeWalt can plus can also rip timber to length, rebates/grooves etc. Ideally I’d set up both and may do one day with some re-jigging of the space I have but out of the two, for the work I do it’s the EB everytime. If you do consider one, look at 10’’ blade versions of you have the room and money.
I also have a DeWalt 12’’ mitre saw and the same stand as Loto above, both of which are gathering dust. The EB does a lot of the things the DeWalt can plus can also rip timber to length, rebates/grooves etc. Ideally I’d set up both and may do one day with some re-jigging of the space I have but out of the two, for the work I do it’s the EB everytime. If you do consider one, look at 10’’ blade versions of you have the room and money.
Simpo Two said:
I rarely need a sliding function in a mitre saw but I do need a table saw. So if space is limited consider a table/mitre saw, eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-LH1201FL-Table-Mit...
I have an Evolution one and it's been invaluable.
I need to buy a new mitre saw and was trying to decide whether or not I needed a sliding function. It will largely be for cutting stud work (house renovation) but I figured that the slide could be useful for doing flooring etc.I have an Evolution one and it's been invaluable.
Given the difference in cost, I would be keen to hear people's thoughts on whether or not it is worth paying extra for the slide. I'm a DIYer only but do like to have tools which will make my life easier.
LennyM1984 said:
Simpo Two said:
I rarely need a sliding function in a mitre saw but I do need a table saw. So if space is limited consider a table/mitre saw, eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-LH1201FL-Table-Mit...
I have an Evolution one and it's been invaluable.
I need to buy a new mitre saw and was trying to decide whether or not I needed a sliding function. It will largely be for cutting stud work (house renovation) but I figured that the slide could be useful for doing flooring etc.I have an Evolution one and it's been invaluable.
Given the difference in cost, I would be keen to hear people's thoughts on whether or not it is worth paying extra for the slide. I'm a DIYer only but do like to have tools which will make my life easier.
Also when cutting and mitring deep skirtings, fascias and similar it's invaluable.
It depends what you're going to do, but ...
I think I'd use the space in the shed for a classic wood working bench, with vices, storage underneath and with tools organised on the wall behind the bench so they're in easy reach, particularly things like clamps.
The idea of setting up a gazebo to use a power tool may seem like a big faff, but the utility of a portable mitre saw shouldn't be overlooked if you're doing DIY. Powered mitre saws and table saws come into their own when you're doing loads of repeated cuts (or big rip cuts), and if you're doing a load of reps, a bit of up-front time to set things up isn't a big deal. These tools always take some set up time anyway. For one off cuts hand tools are often easy, quicker and don't fill the air with dust. And they occupy virtually no space when stored.
If you have tons of space, permanently set up table saws, mitre saw station, floor standing pillar drill, oil derrick and jacuzzi would be great. But if space is limited, I'd prioritise a workbench.
I think I'd use the space in the shed for a classic wood working bench, with vices, storage underneath and with tools organised on the wall behind the bench so they're in easy reach, particularly things like clamps.
The idea of setting up a gazebo to use a power tool may seem like a big faff, but the utility of a portable mitre saw shouldn't be overlooked if you're doing DIY. Powered mitre saws and table saws come into their own when you're doing loads of repeated cuts (or big rip cuts), and if you're doing a load of reps, a bit of up-front time to set things up isn't a big deal. These tools always take some set up time anyway. For one off cuts hand tools are often easy, quicker and don't fill the air with dust. And they occupy virtually no space when stored.
If you have tons of space, permanently set up table saws, mitre saw station, floor standing pillar drill, oil derrick and jacuzzi would be great. But if space is limited, I'd prioritise a workbench.
I have a table saw, a chop saw, and a track saw, the track saw gets the most use, id second that you can build a workbench with a fold-down track and set the depth guide on the track saw and cut away, always straight and much easier to set up than a chop saw. Also handy for ripping down large sheets of timber accurately as well. Oh and festool for the win, so many extra accessories as well. As an Engineer check out Woodpecker tools for their accuracy and excellent quality and engineering.
Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 9th January 23:27
If you have enough room for a dedicated table saw, I've been using one of these recently and find it excellent: https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/...
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