MY2005 DB9 - Leak from lines underneath
Discussion
Hi,
I've just bought an early DB9 with quite promising mileage (9000 miles) and now I'm making some major post purchase review.
Everything is fine but...I've noticed a leak from pipes under the car. The are made from Tekalan and run from back of the engine to the rear of the car and are located on the right side of underbody (so passenger side in LHD car).
I can't post any links unfortunately for now
I can't find them in diagrams - they don't look like transaxle cooler pipes. But the leak is quite substantial.
They have some sort of quick connectors on ends.
Any help? Ideas?
I've just bought an early DB9 with quite promising mileage (9000 miles) and now I'm making some major post purchase review.
Everything is fine but...I've noticed a leak from pipes under the car. The are made from Tekalan and run from back of the engine to the rear of the car and are located on the right side of underbody (so passenger side in LHD car).
I can't post any links unfortunately for now
I can't find them in diagrams - they don't look like transaxle cooler pipes. But the leak is quite substantial.
They have some sort of quick connectors on ends.
Any help? Ideas?
Worth checking out diagrams on Scuderia or eurocarparts.
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/aston...
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/aston...
I am not a mechanic and don’t have a db9.
Pretty sure you’d know if it was fuel.
Only other fluid line i could see on diagrams near that area and they are actually more central till the rear end was the parking brake for the manual variant.
Otherwise rear end oil leak likely to be from limited slip diff? Not sure much else? But I’m just spit-balling so take with a pinch of salt.
Pretty sure you’d know if it was fuel.
Only other fluid line i could see on diagrams near that area and they are actually more central till the rear end was the parking brake for the manual variant.
Otherwise rear end oil leak likely to be from limited slip diff? Not sure much else? But I’m just spit-balling so take with a pinch of salt.
On a RHD car and looking up from below with the front of the car in front of you -
On the right side you a have 2 fuel lines and a fuel tank vapour recovery line.
In the centre you have 2 ZF gearbox transmission oil cooler lines.
On the left side you have 2 brake lines.
Petrol is a clear liquid and stinks of...petrol! The zf gearbox oil will be almost black (unless you've had the oil replaced recently) and if you've smelled transmission fluid before you'll recognise the smell and brake fluid will look amber if replaced regularly and doesn't really smell.
What makes this confusing is yours is a LHD, plus could you post a few photos and we can help you further.
On the right side you a have 2 fuel lines and a fuel tank vapour recovery line.
In the centre you have 2 ZF gearbox transmission oil cooler lines.
On the left side you have 2 brake lines.
Petrol is a clear liquid and stinks of...petrol! The zf gearbox oil will be almost black (unless you've had the oil replaced recently) and if you've smelled transmission fluid before you'll recognise the smell and brake fluid will look amber if replaced regularly and doesn't really smell.
What makes this confusing is yours is a LHD, plus could you post a few photos and we can help you further.
Edited by paulrog1 on Tuesday 7th January 08:04
paulrog1 said:
What makes this confusing is yours is a LHD, plus could you post a few photos and we can help you further.
OEM car makers don't tend to make the routing of lines like fuel, brake and cooling drive-handed, as it adds too much complexity. I'm pretty confident the lines you identified will be in the same location in LHD and RHDI have LHD manual transmission DB9. I was under the car last week looking at that area... As mentioned the three plastic lines are the two fuel lines & vapor recovery line. They go vertical about where the bellhousing mates to the engine. There are no oil lines near there, but lots of opportunities for seals to leak. Rear Main would flow through the bell housing, but valve cover gaskets would leak out the back and wind down the motor and end, well almost anywhere...
Is it a leak or a drip? I would run the car and then put a pan under it to collect fluid. It can only be one of: fuel, engine oil, ATF, PS Fluid, coolant, brake fluid. Those are all pretty dissimilar once you have a reasonable quantity to look at. And if it really is just a drip, I would monitor, replace as needed and ignore it till you have to fix it...
My guess is VC gasket leaking, but that's worth what you paid for it...
Good luck,
Larry
Is it a leak or a drip? I would run the car and then put a pan under it to collect fluid. It can only be one of: fuel, engine oil, ATF, PS Fluid, coolant, brake fluid. Those are all pretty dissimilar once you have a reasonable quantity to look at. And if it really is just a drip, I would monitor, replace as needed and ignore it till you have to fix it...
My guess is VC gasket leaking, but that's worth what you paid for it...
Good luck,
Larry
The leak (drip actually) appears only when the engine is running. So i guess something connected with pressure.
Of course it's not fuel. It's oil, looks like engine oil.
I guess that transaxle oil would be darker. Power steering? Rather not - it's back of the engine.
I've read only about common leaks from timing cover in V12 engines.
Is it possible to have such a substantial leak (about one drop per second) from valve covers?
My next guess is shaft and engine rear seal. Should leak only when engine is running.
I'm affraid that the only way to remove torque tube is to drop transaxle Ehh....
PS. I'm fresh on this forum, so can't put links and photos now.
Of course it's not fuel. It's oil, looks like engine oil.
I guess that transaxle oil would be darker. Power steering? Rather not - it's back of the engine.
I've read only about common leaks from timing cover in V12 engines.
Is it possible to have such a substantial leak (about one drop per second) from valve covers?
My next guess is shaft and engine rear seal. Should leak only when engine is running.
I'm affraid that the only way to remove torque tube is to drop transaxle
Ehh....PS. I'm fresh on this forum, so can't put links and photos now.
Edited by Yoohas on Wednesday 8th January 10:47
It could be the zf gearbox cooler lines, at the centre rear of the engine there are 2 short rubber pipes, these can start to leak transmission fluid.
Take the undertray off, you'll see what I mean.
The zf gearbox fluid pump is only on when the engine is running.
Cam cover and crankshaft seals are mainly robust
Take the undertray off, you'll see what I mean.
The zf gearbox fluid pump is only on when the engine is running.
Cam cover and crankshaft seals are mainly robust
Edited by paulrog1 on Wednesday 8th January 14:17
Edited by paulrog1 on Wednesday 8th January 14:18
Undertray off, both pipes from photo were moist.
But after cleaning and wiping leak appeared from top of engine - i.e. oil is dripping from somewhere up there in the darkness
and going down on fule lines and then dripping on the floor.
Looking from top in the area of downpipe - fuel lines (those sections wrapped with silver thermal insulation) are covered in oil. Thermal cover around exhaust is also moist. Connection of the engine and torque tube is also moist/wet...
Gonna be tough...I'll try to insert inspection camera.
I don't like uncommon failures Those obvious ones are much much comfortable.
But after cleaning and wiping leak appeared from top of engine - i.e. oil is dripping from somewhere up there in the darkness
and going down on fule lines and then dripping on the floor.Looking from top in the area of downpipe - fuel lines (those sections wrapped with silver thermal insulation) are covered in oil. Thermal cover around exhaust is also moist. Connection of the engine and torque tube is also moist/wet...
Gonna be tough...I'll try to insert inspection camera.
I don't like uncommon failures
Those obvious ones are much much comfortable.Some knolwedge sharing for future generations.
It was an oil pressure switch. You can see this on the photos from paulrog1. Right head, yellow plug.
Part number: 1R123910532.
Replacement is a real PITA.
I've managed to unplug the switch by removing wheelarch, some harness and fuel lines.
Then I've removed the switch from the bottom - a lot of extenstions and some swear words later it was done.
Original switch is designed for 21mm socket. A majority of aftermarket replacements is designed for 24mm socket. So watch out. In my opinion - you won't be able to put 24mm socket. No place at all. I had some major problems with 21mm socket.
So look for a proper sensor. I've bought a switch at Ford Dealer. It was designed for a Ford Mustang Coyote engine.
Works perfectly. No leaks.
Operating time: about 6 hours of some calm job. Without hurry, taking care of each bolt not to loose anything, checking some other stuff by the way.
It was an oil pressure switch. You can see this on the photos from paulrog1. Right head, yellow plug.
Part number: 1R123910532.
Replacement is a real PITA.
I've managed to unplug the switch by removing wheelarch, some harness and fuel lines.
Then I've removed the switch from the bottom - a lot of extenstions and some swear words later it was done.
Original switch is designed for 21mm socket. A majority of aftermarket replacements is designed for 24mm socket. So watch out. In my opinion - you won't be able to put 24mm socket. No place at all. I had some major problems with 21mm socket.
So look for a proper sensor. I've bought a switch at Ford Dealer. It was designed for a Ford Mustang Coyote engine.
Works perfectly. No leaks.
Operating time: about 6 hours of some calm job. Without hurry, taking care of each bolt not to loose anything, checking some other stuff by the way.
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