Torque multiplier - uses?
Discussion
On my daily the wheelnuts and caliper screws both torque to ~140Nm. On the wheels, that's a piece of piddle as it's equivalent to lifting ~30kg. On the caliper screws... Not so much. It's easier on a lift, stood underneath, but when doing brakes on the driveway it's a pain. I'll be kneeling on the ground and trying to do it one handed whilst bracing the socket against the head and making sure I don't smash my face against stuff. Recently I was half tempted to just ugga dugga them to FT until I just managed it and got the click.
Is this the sort of job that a torque multiplier is good for? Any recommendations?
Is this the sort of job that a torque multiplier is good for? Any recommendations?
I hadn't actually thought of cranking the steering wheel over for access, that might have solved it. I'm assuming one steers before lifting the car, given that steering geometry tends to push the front of the car laterally and you don't want that when one corner is on an axle stand.
I should have taken a photo at the time, but TBH it was only after completing the job that I was pondering how to make it easier next time, without waiting for my next ramp day.
I should have taken a photo at the time, but TBH it was only after completing the job that I was pondering how to make it easier next time, without waiting for my next ramp day.
donkmeister said:
I hadn't actually thought of cranking the steering wheel over for access, that might have solved it. I'm assuming one steers before lifting the car, given that steering geometry tends to push the front of the car laterally and you don't want that when one corner is on an axle stand.
Yes if you're only doing one corner at a time, or put both fronts up then you can steer about to your heart's content.Chris32345 said:
140nm sounds very high for the caliper retaining bolts
Only a guess but I think that'll be the caliper bracket retaining bolts to the upright, not the actual calipers.Yes, sorry - four pot calipers so the caliper bolts in question are the mounting ones, there are no sliders.
Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!
Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!
Krikkit said:
Only a guess but I think that'll be the caliper bracket retaining bolts to the upright, not the actual calipers.
That still sounds high even for the bracket Never had one that tight before Allways managed to undo them with a normal 1/2 ratchet quick would be quite hard at 140nm
But perhaps what I've worked on has Allways been much less tight bolts
donkmeister said:
Yes, sorry - four pot calipers so the caliper bolts in question are the mounting ones, there are no sliders.
Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!
Ah the posh fancy kind of brake's Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!
Probably explains the high torque
I'm used to more mundane single sided ones with slide pins mounted to frame
Dont be messing about disconnecting the battery for a brake job. Get it jacked up and wheels off, start the engine and release all brakes, go to the one you want to work on and pull the electric connector off it, now when you turn the car off that brake will remain unlocked. I dont know about lexus but I've done dozens of manufacturers this way.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff