Torque multiplier - uses?

Torque multiplier - uses?

Author
Discussion

donkmeister

Original Poster:

9,224 posts

107 months

Saturday 9th November
quotequote all
On my daily the wheelnuts and caliper screws both torque to ~140Nm. On the wheels, that's a piece of piddle as it's equivalent to lifting ~30kg. On the caliper screws... Not so much. It's easier on a lift, stood underneath, but when doing brakes on the driveway it's a pain. I'll be kneeling on the ground and trying to do it one handed whilst bracing the socket against the head and making sure I don't smash my face against stuff. Recently I was half tempted to just ugga dugga them to FT until I just managed it and got the click.

Is this the sort of job that a torque multiplier is good for? Any recommendations?

Jakg

3,600 posts

175 months

Saturday 9th November
quotequote all
I'm no hercules but I've never had a problem with 140nm on axle stands with a cheap torque wrench.

Would a 3/4" torque wrench (typically longer = more leverage) help?

Belle427

9,735 posts

240 months

Saturday 9th November
quotequote all
Ive never failed on front carrier bolts but there are some on the rear of VAG stuff ive not been able to loosen on the ground.
Fronts can be put on full lock for better access.
I dont think you would get a multiplier in there anyway.

donkmeister

Original Poster:

9,224 posts

107 months

Saturday 9th November
quotequote all
I hadn't actually thought of cranking the steering wheel over for access, that might have solved it. I'm assuming one steers before lifting the car, given that steering geometry tends to push the front of the car laterally and you don't want that when one corner is on an axle stand.

I should have taken a photo at the time, but TBH it was only after completing the job that I was pondering how to make it easier next time, without waiting for my next ramp day.

Belle427

9,735 posts

240 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
I normally leave the jack in place too just as a precaution but it is safer to do it before you start really.

Chris32345

2,116 posts

69 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
140nm sounds very high for the caliper retaining bolts

Krikkit

26,984 posts

188 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
donkmeister said:
I hadn't actually thought of cranking the steering wheel over for access, that might have solved it. I'm assuming one steers before lifting the car, given that steering geometry tends to push the front of the car laterally and you don't want that when one corner is on an axle stand.
Yes if you're only doing one corner at a time, or put both fronts up then you can steer about to your heart's content.

Chris32345 said:
140nm sounds very high for the caliper retaining bolts
Only a guess but I think that'll be the caliper bracket retaining bolts to the upright, not the actual calipers.

donkmeister

Original Poster:

9,224 posts

107 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
Yes, sorry - four pot calipers so the caliper bolts in question are the mounting ones, there are no sliders.

Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!

Chris32345

2,116 posts

69 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
Krikkit said:
Only a guess but I think that'll be the caliper bracket retaining bolts to the upright, not the actual calipers.
That still sounds high even for the bracket
Never had one that tight before Allways managed to undo them with a normal 1/2 ratchet quick would be quite hard at 140nm

But perhaps what I've worked on has Allways been much less tight bolts

Chris32345

2,116 posts

69 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
donkmeister said:
Yes, sorry - four pot calipers so the caliper bolts in question are the mounting ones, there are no sliders.

Being a modern(ish) car (Lexus LS460) it remains to be seen if the steering lock will come on with the battery disconnected. If it does then there will be 20 minutes to swap sides as there's a dwell period between shutting down the car and disconnecting the battery to allow data to be written etc. And of course you need to disconnect the battery to avoid the brakes actuating accidentally when you are working on them. Fun!
Ah the posh fancy kind of brake's

Probably explains the high torque
I'm used to more mundane single sided ones with slide pins mounted to frame

fridaypassion

9,367 posts

235 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
I've got one for centrelock brakes but they are 600nm

Up to about 200 is reasonably easy with a torque wrench with maybe a bit of tube on the end just to make life a bit easier.

Decky_Q

1,650 posts

184 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
Dont be messing about disconnecting the battery for a brake job. Get it jacked up and wheels off, start the engine and release all brakes, go to the one you want to work on and pull the electric connector off it, now when you turn the car off that brake will remain unlocked. I dont know about lexus but I've done dozens of manufacturers this way.