Rate my thrust bearing…

[Flatplane8]

Haven’t quite got round to stripping the bottom end, but thought I’d check the crank end float as it stands. It’s “0.009, which is a bit outside the manual range of “0.005 to 0.007. I took off #4 main cap and this is what it looked like. I’m optimistic that new bearings will bring it back into spec. The journal looked good and measured “0.002 clearance using plastigauge. This is on an engine with 176k miles, I’ve had regular oil changes done with Millers CFS 10w/60.

[ukkid35]

176k miles - that's bonkers

No engines do that, so getting an AJP8 to 176k is just insane

(my 928 S4 bottom end has 250k, but it's the opposite of an AJP8)

[Flatplane8]

It is a lot of miles, but for context they are mainly on the road. I stopped doing track days about 18 years ago when I discovered that boats are a far more effective way of emptying one's bank account (I would like to do some more track days though...). On the road I rarely go above 5k revs as by then I'm going much faster than almost anyone else, which is not a great look.

I think regular oil changes at 6k mile intervals with a good quality oil, and letting the car warm up (oil temperature gauge is useful here...) before going over 3k rpm has probably contributed to most of it.

I'm hoping to 'refresh' the engine internals, rather than rebuild, as I'm curious if I can get the thing to 200k miles. All subject to the usual 'whilst its apart I might as well.....' disclaimers

Blasted chassis ready for welding too.

[BritishTvr450]

I love stories like these.
The fact you have always carefully warmed the engine, changed the oil and generally looked after it by not thrashing it is key to its longevity.
Chassis is looking good

[Flatplane8]

Thanks, the outriggers have been partially done before, but whats left of the original tubes is not good. The main frame is fine apart from a couple of small areas. This is the worst of the outriggers taken from underneath, drivers side rear half (front half was replaced some years ago by Offords and looks ok).

[BritishTvr450]

Flatplane8 said:

Thanks, the outriggers have been partially done before, but whats left of the original tubes is not good. The main frame is fine apart from a couple of small areas. This is the worst of the outriggers taken from underneath, drivers side rear half (front half was replaced some years ago by Offords and looks ok).

Crickey.
I’ve never seen one split along the seem before.
In all fairness 176,000 miles on any tubular chassis is quite some longevity.

The great thing is it’s not hard to replace them and start it’s life again.

[BritishTvr450]

BritishTvr450 said:

Flatplane8 said:

Thanks, the outriggers have been partially done before, but whats left of the original tubes is not good. The main frame is fine apart from a couple of small areas. This is the worst of the outriggers taken from underneath, drivers side rear half (front half was replaced some years ago by Offords and looks ok).

Crickey.
I’ve never seen one split along the seam before.
In all fairness 176,000 miles on any tubular chassis is quite some longevity.

The great thing is it’s not hard to replace them and start it’s life again.

[Flatplane8]

My guess is that as TVR used rolled tube with a seam, its the seam thats rusted out rather than split, but I'll see more when I cut if off. I've got some 2mm thick CDS tube to replace the corroded sections with. the chassis has been regularly waxoiled in my ownership (21years), plus minor oil leaks keep the central section corrosion free - as on so many British cars....

[camel_landy]

Flatplane8 said:

...minor oil leaks keep the central section corrosion free - as on so many British cars....

It's "Built in rust proofing"... British engineers think of everything.

Encouraging to see that sot of mileage. I too take a similar approach to warming from cold but no idea about previous owners.

M

[BritishTvr450]

Flatplane8 said:

My guess is that as TVR used rolled tube with a seam, its the seam thats rusted out rather than split, but I'll see more when I cut if off. I've got some 2mm thick CDS tube to replace the corroded sections with. the chassis has been regularly waxoiled in my ownership (21years), plus minor oil leaks keep the central section corrosion free - as on so many British cars....

I’ve been in two minds as to using wax oil but this has cemented my views.
Having done a body off I enjoy seeing the fresh white look of it but it’s also changed my view on using the car on anything but a dry day with a long term forcast which is ridiculous to my mind and making the car unusable for many months of the year so I will be applying it liberally probably yearly and getting back to using it as often as I can so your thread might even get a few more Tvr near to 176000 miles.
Very impressive Chassis and engine

[Flatplane8]

We've recently been trying Lanoguard at the boatyard and it seems good. The advantage for us is that its a natural product so less of a worry if some goes into the water.

I agree with using the car, which I guess is why my mileage got so high in the early years of ownership.

All the dynamics of a pickup truck in the snow though (2007 winter in Berkshire)

[BritishTvr450]

Flatplane8 said:

We've recently been trying Lanoguard at the boatyard and it seems good. The advantage for us is that its a natural product so less of a worry if some goes into the water.

I agree with using the car, which I guess is why my mileage got so high in the early years of ownership.

All the dynamics of a pickup truck in the snow though (2007 winter in Berkshire)

I’ve been considering lanoguard and will probably go for that.
That’s what you call squeaky bum time.
I once drove my car in weather very similar to that and had to go down a steep hill for about 1/2 mile and even at 5 mph it was out of control the whole way, good job it was 1/2 mile because it look that long to stop it. st myself and that’s the last time I’ll ever take that chance.
Funny now though

[BritishTvr450]

Having read this thread that contradicts most peoples opinion of the longevity of Tvr and how well the chassis has held up considering the huge amount of miles both that and the engine have covered I ordered up some Lanoguard chassis protector yesterday for my Chim.
I was unsure wether using such a product would be worthwhile but I think that’s because most chassis didn’t get covered early enough in its life.
My Chassis was blasted, new riggers and epoxy mastic painted 4 years ago and still looks new and fresh and because I believe these cars should be used as often as possible I’ve decided this is a prudent move which will promote chassis life and enable me to use the car more often.
I notice wishbones tend to rust very early on regardless of how they are covered so over a few years I hope to show regular use of the Lanoguard will increase there life expectancy.
Tvr well proven oil leak protection system tends to keep the centre sections of chassis well protected so with the use of that and Lanoguard I reckon I’ll be quids in
Onwards and upwards

[Flatplane8]

Sounds like a good plan, after having spent all the time and money on these cars its seems a shame to not drive them as much as possible. I know some people prefer to keep them for special occasions, but I'd rather look back and think that I got the most out of owning one. I concede that they are not the best for runs to the tip or transporting boat parts, but it is usually entertaining for someone, even if its not me

[BritishTvr450]

I fully agree.
I was once press ganged into carrying ladders and my sons decorating equipment to a local job for him while his van was being fixed. Roof down with ladders hanging out the roof wasn’t what I’d call a good look but the trusty Chim took it in its stride all the same.
With its large boot it was impressive how I got his tools etc all in in one trip.

I called him the most expensive decorator in the town that day

Lanoguard arrived today.
Looking forward to applying it and the tub of grease looks particularly useful for those pesky wishbone nooks and crannies.