Finally went for it - 1998 4.5 Chimaera
Discussion
Hi all, after much deliberating and many months looking, I bought this 1998 Chimaera from Amore Autos last weekend.
This buying journey has been unusual for me as normally, I decide what I want, do a bit of research and go and buy. With the TVR I’ve swung back and forth (should I, shouldn’t I) over a number of months, with more than a bit of trepidation, right up to collection. Partly the reputation getting into my head and partly that a very reliable, solid and excellent Boxster S was making was for it - either way it became an itch I had to scratch,
A couple of thanks go to Mark at Amore, who I would highly recommend - his support has been excellent, similarly some of the members on here such as BritishTVR450.
So far really enjoying it - it’s a unique experience and like nothing I’ve driven before, consider my immediate previous weekend cars have been an E46 M3 convertible and latterly a 987 Boxster S. The sound, the cabin/driving position and the old school driving experience is really something else! It feels and drives surprisingly solid too, put that down to lots of recent work that’s been done.
Details
1998 4.5 litre
Giallo fly yellow
Navy interior and roof
39k miles - 3 owners from new - last owner had it since 2003!
Note the original dealer plates - Newton Motors MG Rover and TVR!
Outriggers, suspension arms and all new bushes last year
Fuel lines, steering gaiters, ball joints replaced and full service prior to purchase.
First impressions - surprisingly easy to drive and not too daunting. Very comfy driving position, suits me well as a taller driver. Draws lots of attention.
Upcoming jobs:
New tyres - it’s wearing Falkens fitted in 2008. I won’t be going far until these have been changed.
The ride seems a little bouncy, particularly on the rear. I imagine this is because it’s on its original and even though mileage is low they’re 26 years old. All the arms and bushes were replaced last year. Is this just how they are or are they likely in need or replacement?
Four wheel alignment - I’ve heard centre gravity are good and they’re not too far from me.
Alarm and immobiliser replacement. I only have one key and the fob only works at close range. In touch with Carl Baker with a view to getting this done next year.
New seatbelts - drivers side seems to get stuck and takes some persuading to pull through.
Welcome any thoughts on other jobs people would recommend doing - the priority being usability.
Anyway - enough talking - here are some pictures:
And the Boxster it replaced:
This buying journey has been unusual for me as normally, I decide what I want, do a bit of research and go and buy. With the TVR I’ve swung back and forth (should I, shouldn’t I) over a number of months, with more than a bit of trepidation, right up to collection. Partly the reputation getting into my head and partly that a very reliable, solid and excellent Boxster S was making was for it - either way it became an itch I had to scratch,
A couple of thanks go to Mark at Amore, who I would highly recommend - his support has been excellent, similarly some of the members on here such as BritishTVR450.
So far really enjoying it - it’s a unique experience and like nothing I’ve driven before, consider my immediate previous weekend cars have been an E46 M3 convertible and latterly a 987 Boxster S. The sound, the cabin/driving position and the old school driving experience is really something else! It feels and drives surprisingly solid too, put that down to lots of recent work that’s been done.
Details
1998 4.5 litre
Giallo fly yellow
Navy interior and roof
39k miles - 3 owners from new - last owner had it since 2003!
Note the original dealer plates - Newton Motors MG Rover and TVR!
Outriggers, suspension arms and all new bushes last year
Fuel lines, steering gaiters, ball joints replaced and full service prior to purchase.
First impressions - surprisingly easy to drive and not too daunting. Very comfy driving position, suits me well as a taller driver. Draws lots of attention.
Upcoming jobs:
New tyres - it’s wearing Falkens fitted in 2008. I won’t be going far until these have been changed.
The ride seems a little bouncy, particularly on the rear. I imagine this is because it’s on its original and even though mileage is low they’re 26 years old. All the arms and bushes were replaced last year. Is this just how they are or are they likely in need or replacement?
Four wheel alignment - I’ve heard centre gravity are good and they’re not too far from me.
Alarm and immobiliser replacement. I only have one key and the fob only works at close range. In touch with Carl Baker with a view to getting this done next year.
New seatbelts - drivers side seems to get stuck and takes some persuading to pull through.
Welcome any thoughts on other jobs people would recommend doing - the priority being usability.
Anyway - enough talking - here are some pictures:
Edited by Alex10391 on Saturday 12th October 22:52
And the Boxster it replaced:
Edited by Alex10391 on Saturday 12th October 22:56
2 lovely cars there.
In terms of making it more reliable and if you intend keeping it i would seriously consider an aftermarket management conversion in the future.
The reason i say this is that quality components for both the ignition and injection system are no longer available so your relying on used and aftermarket components, which can be sketchy at best.
The conversion will give you a smoother driving more reliable car which is a big bonus, a few extra ponies too which is always welcomed.
Its a fairly big outlay but in my opinion a worthy one.
The original system is ok when its running well in all fairness but when it starts to play up it can be a real headache, you only have to read the previous threads here to see that.
I wouldnt mess around with it too much though and just concentrate on enjoying it, most of the recipe is spot on.
As for suspension they are not blessed with Boxster type dynamics, the dampers may be past their best. Most people opt for the upgraded Tuscan S type Bilsteins that Ben Lang offers via his ebay shop blackdown automotive.(an ex Tvr chassis engineer)
Its a very good upgrade for the money.
In terms of making it more reliable and if you intend keeping it i would seriously consider an aftermarket management conversion in the future.
The reason i say this is that quality components for both the ignition and injection system are no longer available so your relying on used and aftermarket components, which can be sketchy at best.
The conversion will give you a smoother driving more reliable car which is a big bonus, a few extra ponies too which is always welcomed.
Its a fairly big outlay but in my opinion a worthy one.
The original system is ok when its running well in all fairness but when it starts to play up it can be a real headache, you only have to read the previous threads here to see that.
I wouldnt mess around with it too much though and just concentrate on enjoying it, most of the recipe is spot on.
As for suspension they are not blessed with Boxster type dynamics, the dampers may be past their best. Most people opt for the upgraded Tuscan S type Bilsteins that Ben Lang offers via his ebay shop blackdown automotive.(an ex Tvr chassis engineer)
Its a very good upgrade for the money.
Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 13th October 07:38
Congratulations.
At this point I’d very carefully drive it ( mindful of the very old tyres) for a few weeks and only in dry conditions and just see how the car performs from a reliability point of view.
Until you know how everything’s performing I’d avoid doing anything unnecessary or spending money on nice trick bits just for the sake and enjoyment of it
I think I’d change the tyres as soon as is possible as a first step and then look at the suspension.
Both are critical from a safety perspective but nice steady cruising around for a while shouldn’t do any harm while you just get used to it.
I remember writing a great long list of things when I got mine then overtime realised most of that list was not particularly important.
I bought mine privately so within a week took it to a very critically minded TVR man ( Powers)
just because I didn’t know much about the cars to check over it and that was a wise choice.
As you have got yours from a respected dealer that informed set of eyes have already done that I expect so just take your time getting used to it and enjoy the almost unique experience these cars offer.
The torque is the most dangerous element and a rule of thumb I use as a powerful sports car instructor is to simply not accelerate off corners until the back wheels are straight and in line with the fronts as the torque can easily overwhelm the rear tyres, so just balance the car in a neutral throttle position off apexes until the car is straight very similar to driving on wet roads.
In today’s world they are not seen as particularly fast but they are still what I call a monster car and need to be respected as such
Modern cars including many great Porsche forgive over eager drivers off corners due to there excellent handling characteristics but a TVR is more like an old school F1 car that require great skill and patience which is something I like very much and focuses the mind.
Enjoy
At this point I’d very carefully drive it ( mindful of the very old tyres) for a few weeks and only in dry conditions and just see how the car performs from a reliability point of view.
Until you know how everything’s performing I’d avoid doing anything unnecessary or spending money on nice trick bits just for the sake and enjoyment of it
I think I’d change the tyres as soon as is possible as a first step and then look at the suspension.
Both are critical from a safety perspective but nice steady cruising around for a while shouldn’t do any harm while you just get used to it.
I remember writing a great long list of things when I got mine then overtime realised most of that list was not particularly important.
I bought mine privately so within a week took it to a very critically minded TVR man ( Powers)
just because I didn’t know much about the cars to check over it and that was a wise choice.
As you have got yours from a respected dealer that informed set of eyes have already done that I expect so just take your time getting used to it and enjoy the almost unique experience these cars offer.
The torque is the most dangerous element and a rule of thumb I use as a powerful sports car instructor is to simply not accelerate off corners until the back wheels are straight and in line with the fronts as the torque can easily overwhelm the rear tyres, so just balance the car in a neutral throttle position off apexes until the car is straight very similar to driving on wet roads.
In today’s world they are not seen as particularly fast but they are still what I call a monster car and need to be respected as such
Modern cars including many great Porsche forgive over eager drivers off corners due to there excellent handling characteristics but a TVR is more like an old school F1 car that require great skill and patience which is something I like very much and focuses the mind.
Enjoy
Looks ace, congrats.
The yellow is awesome.
I am slightly surprised that the dealer let you have it with such old rubber. Maybe i was spoiled by HHC.
That said i bought a morgan on 18 years old tyres from a main dealer -i had assumed they would change them so didnt ask- doh!
The yellow is awesome.
I am slightly surprised that the dealer let you have it with such old rubber. Maybe i was spoiled by HHC.
That said i bought a morgan on 18 years old tyres from a main dealer -i had assumed they would change them so didnt ask- doh!
Edited by sawman on Sunday 13th October 12:33
Lovely, and with the best engine 
If you can’t wait for Carl to be in the country, speak to Dave at HF Solutions as he can probably help. Definitely worth getting the boot release module whoever you get to do the alarm.
Agree that the seat belts get trapped with the seat right back, I have mine one notch forwards on the backrest adjust (6’2”) and I have the useful extenders that change the angle a little.
If you can’t wait for Carl to be in the country, speak to Dave at HF Solutions as he can probably help. Definitely worth getting the boot release module whoever you get to do the alarm.
Agree that the seat belts get trapped with the seat right back, I have mine one notch forwards on the backrest adjust (6’2”) and I have the useful extenders that change the angle a little.
Decent tyres are a must. Especially this time of year. When they do let go, they are very lively!
Check the fuel hoses. Don't want to be alarmist but some of the rubber lines can perish and are a fire risk.
If you are close to Centre Gravity, you are probably not too far from TVR Power either if you are looking for a specialist.
I had mine in at Center Gravity last year. Great service. They drove the car, talked to me about what I wanted from it then after a couple of hours with the suspension I had a completely transformed car.
Before you go there, you want to have all the suspension parts in tip-top shape so if the shocks are a bit tired etc I'd get that sorted first. Also want to make sure things like the rear toe adjusters are not seized up....
Check the fuel hoses. Don't want to be alarmist but some of the rubber lines can perish and are a fire risk.
If you are close to Centre Gravity, you are probably not too far from TVR Power either if you are looking for a specialist.
I had mine in at Center Gravity last year. Great service. They drove the car, talked to me about what I wanted from it then after a couple of hours with the suspension I had a completely transformed car.
Before you go there, you want to have all the suspension parts in tip-top shape so if the shocks are a bit tired etc I'd get that sorted first. Also want to make sure things like the rear toe adjusters are not seized up....
Edited by gamefreaks on Sunday 13th October 13:49
Belle427 said:
I must ask regarding the tyres but shouldn't the dealer have a duty of care somewhat for customers safety?
Seems odd they would not deal with tyres that old.
That was exactly what I was thinking, I've scanned Amore loads and there prices are at the top end, so surely you'd expect everything to be as good as it can be, the car should want for nothing at the prices they charge surely??Seems odd they would not deal with tyres that old.
That really depends on what he paid for the car. You have to remember Amore sometimes just sell owners cars on their behalf and take a small fee for doing so. Not every car is advertised and or 20k +.
Let the guy enjoy his car before we all jump on the bandwagon of slating something we know nothing about.
If the car has been stored in a heated or dry garage the tyres might not yet be ditch finders although I fully agree they should be replaced simply because of there age.
I’ve known campers being sold with 20 year old tyres although I thought that was now illegal.
Or is that truck tyres that have to be changed once they reach 10 years old ?
Let the guy enjoy his car before we all jump on the bandwagon of slating something we know nothing about.
If the car has been stored in a heated or dry garage the tyres might not yet be ditch finders although I fully agree they should be replaced simply because of there age.
I’ve known campers being sold with 20 year old tyres although I thought that was now illegal.
Or is that truck tyres that have to be changed once they reach 10 years old ?
Only on the steering axles:
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/use-of-...
I've visited Amore a couple of times, once to possibly sell my Cerbera for me. I got the impression almost all his cars are SOR. However, he stands by them and provides a warranty on them himself so they are inspected and any shortcomings have to be rectified. I doubt he'd leave tyres on that were obviously defective; as you say age doesn't necessarily mean they've had it.
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/use-of-...
I've visited Amore a couple of times, once to possibly sell my Cerbera for me. I got the impression almost all his cars are SOR. However, he stands by them and provides a warranty on them himself so they are inspected and any shortcomings have to be rectified. I doubt he'd leave tyres on that were obviously defective; as you say age doesn't necessarily mean they've had it.
Hi Alex.
Don't run out & buy new seatbelts yet. My car had them replaced last year by previous owner & still tight to pull. Look at my video on how to sort them out. I made the adaptors as I have a fully equiped workshop. There is someone on here I believe who sells them. Easy to fit & completely sorts out the problem. I have a full playlist on my channel of working on the Tvr Chimaera 450. But this link is just the seatbelts.
Steve.
P.S Congrats on the car. Looks really nice. Enjoy.
https://youtu.be/wWnCWStkKdo
Don't run out & buy new seatbelts yet. My car had them replaced last year by previous owner & still tight to pull. Look at my video on how to sort them out. I made the adaptors as I have a fully equiped workshop. There is someone on here I believe who sells them. Easy to fit & completely sorts out the problem. I have a full playlist on my channel of working on the Tvr Chimaera 450. But this link is just the seatbelts.
Steve.
P.S Congrats on the car. Looks really nice. Enjoy.
https://youtu.be/wWnCWStkKdo
Belle427 said:
I must ask regarding the tyres but shouldn't the dealer have a duty of care somewhat for customers safety?
Seems odd they would not deal with tyres that old.
I feel I should defend this point for Amore. As others have said, they sell on behalf of owners and do go through a comprehensive list of pre-sale jobs (which the outgoing owner pays for).Seems odd they would not deal with tyres that old.
On my car this included new fuel hoses all round, new CV boots, new ball joints, drop links, power steering fluid, 6k service and MOT. The tyres were identified to me as being old (but not unroadworthy) and this was negotiated off the price.
They’ve got plenty of tread and surprisingly, for the age, don’t have any cracks but they’re first on the list of things to replace and it’s dry weather/pootling about only for now.
Belle427 said:
2 lovely cars there.
In terms of making it more reliable and if you intend keeping it i would seriously consider an aftermarket management conversion in the future.
The reason i say this is that quality components for both the ignition and injection system are no longer available so your relying on used and aftermarket components, which can be sketchy at best.
The conversion will give you a smoother driving more reliable car which is a big bonus, a few extra ponies too which is always welcomed.
Its a fairly big outlay but in my opinion a worthy one.
The original system is ok when its running well in all fairness but when it starts to play up it can be a real headache, you only have to read the previous threads here to see that.
I wouldnt mess around with it too much though and just concentrate on enjoying it, most of the recipe is spot on.
As for suspension they are not blessed with Boxster type dynamics, the dampers may be past their best. Most people opt for the upgraded Tuscan S type Bilsteins that Ben Lang offers via his ebay shop blackdown automotive.(an ex Tvr chassis engineer)
Its a very good upgrade for the money.
Thanks for the note - you were one of the helpful posters that convinced me buying one was a good idea (sorry meant to name check you in original post!)In terms of making it more reliable and if you intend keeping it i would seriously consider an aftermarket management conversion in the future.
The reason i say this is that quality components for both the ignition and injection system are no longer available so your relying on used and aftermarket components, which can be sketchy at best.
The conversion will give you a smoother driving more reliable car which is a big bonus, a few extra ponies too which is always welcomed.
Its a fairly big outlay but in my opinion a worthy one.
The original system is ok when its running well in all fairness but when it starts to play up it can be a real headache, you only have to read the previous threads here to see that.
I wouldnt mess around with it too much though and just concentrate on enjoying it, most of the recipe is spot on.
As for suspension they are not blessed with Boxster type dynamics, the dampers may be past their best. Most people opt for the upgraded Tuscan S type Bilsteins that Ben Lang offers via his ebay shop blackdown automotive.(an ex Tvr chassis engineer)
Its a very good upgrade for the money.
Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 13th October 07:38
Interesting point and one I’ve read a fair bit on already. Driving wise so far, I can detect only the faintest lurch and that’s purely from cold, very low revs in first. It fires up hot or cold and idles smoothly, hopefully it stays that way but this is something I’m mindful of longer term. What sort of cost is an aftermarket conversion all in?
One thing i will add is it seems to be driving better each time I’ve used it. It had done very few miles in the last 4/5 years (this was a concern at first) but some decent runs out and 2nd tank of VPower since buying and it’s feeling better and better. Maybe just me getting more comfortable with it.
Will check the Bilstein kit out too, thanks - how does it ride on these? Impression so far is the cornering feels solid and stable (lovely turn in and steering weight) but maybe a little bouncy on the ride, hence suspicion dampers may be past their best?
Edited by Alex10391 on Monday 14th October 22:32
miniman said:
Lovely, and with the best engine
If you can’t wait for Carl to be in the country, speak to Dave at HF Solutions as he can probably help. Definitely worth getting the boot release module whoever you get to do the alarm.
Agree that the seat belts get trapped with the seat right back, I have mine one notch forwards on the backrest adjust (6’2”) and I have the useful extenders that change the angle a little.
Thanks for this - is Dave just as good? It works fine at the moment but concerned an immobiliser/non start issue would make my other half instantly lose enthusiasm for it (she seems mildly approving so far…)If you can’t wait for Carl to be in the country, speak to Dave at HF Solutions as he can probably help. Definitely worth getting the boot release module whoever you get to do the alarm.
Agree that the seat belts get trapped with the seat right back, I have mine one notch forwards on the backrest adjust (6’2”) and I have the useful extenders that change the angle a little.
steviegtr said:
Hi Alex.
Don't run out & buy new seatbelts yet. My car had them replaced last year by previous owner & still tight to pull. Look at my video on how to sort them out. I made the adaptors as I have a fully equiped workshop. There is someone on here I believe who sells them. Easy to fit & completely sorts out the problem. I have a full playlist on my channel of working on the Tvr Chimaera 450. But this link is just the seatbelts.
Steve.
P.S Congrats on the car. Looks really nice. Enjoy.
https://youtu.be/wWnCWStkKdo
Hi Stevie, this is super helpful - thank you. I do have my seat all the way back as someone mentioned above so that could be playing a part. Hopefully save some money here!Don't run out & buy new seatbelts yet. My car had them replaced last year by previous owner & still tight to pull. Look at my video on how to sort them out. I made the adaptors as I have a fully equiped workshop. There is someone on here I believe who sells them. Easy to fit & completely sorts out the problem. I have a full playlist on my channel of working on the Tvr Chimaera 450. But this link is just the seatbelts.
Steve.
P.S Congrats on the car. Looks really nice. Enjoy.
https://youtu.be/wWnCWStkKdo
BritishTvr450 said:
Congratulations.
At this point I’d very carefully drive it ( mindful of the very old tyres) for a few weeks and only in dry conditions and just see how the car performs from a reliability point of view.
Until you know how everything’s performing I’d avoid doing anything unnecessary or spending money on nice trick bits just for the sake and enjoyment of it
I think I’d change the tyres as soon as is possible as a first step and then look at the suspension.
Both are critical from a safety perspective but nice steady cruising around for a while shouldn’t do any harm while you just get used to it.
I remember writing a great long list of things when I got mine then overtime realised most of that list was not particularly important.
I bought mine privately so within a week took it to a very critically minded TVR man ( Powers)
just because I didn’t know much about the cars to check over it and that was a wise choice.
As you have got yours from a respected dealer that informed set of eyes have already done that I expect so just take your time getting used to it and enjoy the almost unique experience these cars offer.
The torque is the most dangerous element and a rule of thumb I use as a powerful sports car instructor is to simply not accelerate off corners until the back wheels are straight and in line with the fronts as the torque can easily overwhelm the rear tyres, so just balance the car in a neutral throttle position off apexes until the car is straight very similar to driving on wet roads.
In today’s world they are not seen as particularly fast but they are still what I call a monster car and need to be respected as such
Modern cars including many great Porsche forgive over eager drivers off corners due to there excellent handling characteristics but a TVR is more like an old school F1 car that require great skill and patience which is something I like very much and focuses the mind.
Enjoy
More solid advice, thank you. Taking it steady so far, not expecting it to be as sharp as the Porsche but the sound, torque and overall experience is on another level. At this point I’d very carefully drive it ( mindful of the very old tyres) for a few weeks and only in dry conditions and just see how the car performs from a reliability point of view.
Until you know how everything’s performing I’d avoid doing anything unnecessary or spending money on nice trick bits just for the sake and enjoyment of it
I think I’d change the tyres as soon as is possible as a first step and then look at the suspension.
Both are critical from a safety perspective but nice steady cruising around for a while shouldn’t do any harm while you just get used to it.
I remember writing a great long list of things when I got mine then overtime realised most of that list was not particularly important.
I bought mine privately so within a week took it to a very critically minded TVR man ( Powers)
just because I didn’t know much about the cars to check over it and that was a wise choice.
As you have got yours from a respected dealer that informed set of eyes have already done that I expect so just take your time getting used to it and enjoy the almost unique experience these cars offer.
The torque is the most dangerous element and a rule of thumb I use as a powerful sports car instructor is to simply not accelerate off corners until the back wheels are straight and in line with the fronts as the torque can easily overwhelm the rear tyres, so just balance the car in a neutral throttle position off apexes until the car is straight very similar to driving on wet roads.
In today’s world they are not seen as particularly fast but they are still what I call a monster car and need to be respected as such
Modern cars including many great Porsche forgive over eager drivers off corners due to there excellent handling characteristics but a TVR is more like an old school F1 car that require great skill and patience which is something I like very much and focuses the mind.
Enjoy
One thing I will say, I’m sure many will agree - it feels special even at low speed… just pootling along is a pleasurable event.
Edited by Alex10391 on Monday 14th October 22:20
Edited by Alex10391 on Monday 14th October 22:21
Edited by Alex10391 on Monday 14th October 22:27
Bilsteins are the standard dampers fitted when they were new, but they were fixed settings. Over the years, Bilstein had produced them with an adjustable position spring platform.
Many owners, once the originals have worn out, fit adjustable systems such as Gaz Gold, Protech or similar.
Many owners, once the originals have worn out, fit adjustable systems such as Gaz Gold, Protech or similar.
Welcome to the fold!
I've owned my Chim for 18 years now and there's little to beat it bang for buck wise.
Surprised nobody has mentioned tyre pressures regarding you're saying if feels "bouncy". Typically they require low pressures in the order of 22psi front and 24 rear. They can handle very strangely if over inflated.
My car is on 66K miles and 24 years old still on the original Bilsteins and handles OK IMHO. You can spend a fortune "upgrading" but I'd suggest that you put a new set of tyres (Rainsport 5s) on and get to know the car first.
My car (and quite a few other) is without it's rear anti roll bar which makes rear break away more prediactable and less sudden which I prefer as I use my car on the road rather than the track.
If the alarm is playing up then IMHO HF Solutions is the place to go. I wasn't impressed with the other alternative suggested.
Hope you come to love your Chim as much as I've loved owning mine.
And don't listen to people who say they're unreliable. I have serviced and maintained mine it's whole life with me and have taken it to Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Isle of Man, Scotland ... and it's never failed to get me home. Had a couple of misfires mainly due to poor quality parts but otherwise been all good.
I've owned my Chim for 18 years now and there's little to beat it bang for buck wise.
Surprised nobody has mentioned tyre pressures regarding you're saying if feels "bouncy". Typically they require low pressures in the order of 22psi front and 24 rear. They can handle very strangely if over inflated.
My car is on 66K miles and 24 years old still on the original Bilsteins and handles OK IMHO. You can spend a fortune "upgrading" but I'd suggest that you put a new set of tyres (Rainsport 5s) on and get to know the car first.
My car (and quite a few other) is without it's rear anti roll bar which makes rear break away more prediactable and less sudden which I prefer as I use my car on the road rather than the track.
If the alarm is playing up then IMHO HF Solutions is the place to go. I wasn't impressed with the other alternative suggested.
Hope you come to love your Chim as much as I've loved owning mine.
And don't listen to people who say they're unreliable. I have serviced and maintained mine it's whole life with me and have taken it to Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Isle of Man, Scotland ... and it's never failed to get me home. Had a couple of misfires mainly due to poor quality parts but otherwise been all good.
sixor8 said:
Bilsteins are the standard dampers fitted when they were new, but they were fixed settings. Over the years, Bilstein had produced them with an adjustable position spring platform.
Many owners, once the originals have worn out, fit adjustable systems such as Gaz Gold, Protech or similar.
Thanks - I’m always keen to keep as close to original as possible so the new Bilsteins look to be the way to goMany owners, once the originals have worn out, fit adjustable systems such as Gaz Gold, Protech or similar.
Tyre Tread said:
Welcome to the fold!
I've owned my Chim for 18 years now and there's little to beat it bang for buck wise.
Surprised nobody has mentioned tyre pressures regarding you're saying if feels "bouncy". Typically they require low pressures in the order of 22psi front and 24 rear. They can handle very strangely if over inflated.
My car is on 66K miles and 24 years old still on the original Bilsteins and handles OK IMHO. You can spend a fortune "upgrading" but I'd suggest that you put a new set of tyres (Rainsport 5s) on and get to know the car first.
My car (and quite a few other) is without it's rear anti roll bar which makes rear break away more prediactable and less sudden which I prefer as I use my car on the road rather than the track.
If the alarm is playing up then IMHO HF Solutions is the place to go. I wasn't impressed with the other alternative suggested.
Hope you come to love your Chim as much as I've loved owning mine.
And don't listen to people who say they're unreliable. I have serviced and maintained mine it's whole life with me and have taken it to Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Isle of Man, Scotland ... and it's never failed to get me home. Had a couple of misfires mainly due to poor quality parts but otherwise been all good.
Awesome - great to hear what an ownership you’ve had and I can really see how these get under your skin. I bet you have some amazing memories from those trips.I've owned my Chim for 18 years now and there's little to beat it bang for buck wise.
Surprised nobody has mentioned tyre pressures regarding you're saying if feels "bouncy". Typically they require low pressures in the order of 22psi front and 24 rear. They can handle very strangely if over inflated.
My car is on 66K miles and 24 years old still on the original Bilsteins and handles OK IMHO. You can spend a fortune "upgrading" but I'd suggest that you put a new set of tyres (Rainsport 5s) on and get to know the car first.
My car (and quite a few other) is without it's rear anti roll bar which makes rear break away more prediactable and less sudden which I prefer as I use my car on the road rather than the track.
If the alarm is playing up then IMHO HF Solutions is the place to go. I wasn't impressed with the other alternative suggested.
Hope you come to love your Chim as much as I've loved owning mine.
And don't listen to people who say they're unreliable. I have serviced and maintained mine it's whole life with me and have taken it to Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Isle of Man, Scotland ... and it's never failed to get me home. Had a couple of misfires mainly due to poor quality parts but otherwise been all good.
Tyre pressures are all fine, this could just be me being picky. I did have brand new suspension all round on my Boxster so it was near to perfection. A fresh set of Rainsport 5s will be my first investment so let’s go from there.
The immobiliser works fine so far, this will be a preventative piece so I can avoid any issues in the future - recognising the current kit is 26 years old and with future reliability in mind. Seen that Dave is only over the other side of the East Mids so this could work well.
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