2008 Vantage winter storage - disconnect battery?

[V2008]

Looks like we're rapidly running out of summer, so I'm soon going to be putting my 2008 vantage in a garage for a few months... Trouble is I'm finding it hard to find one to rent locally with electric for a trickle charger.

Am I likely to screw anything up by taking the battery out, and sticking that at home on a trickle charger while the car is in storage?

I'd appreciate any other tips anyone has for prepping the car.. so far I've got to thinking about leaving the handbrake off and getting a light cover. What else should I be doing?

Tia.

[Calinours]

Try to get a trickle charger connected. Who knows what issues will be presented with a completely dead car - all module memory may have been lost in 6m with no power at all connected

[Wheel Turned Out]

As mentioned, with a relatively modern car full of electronic trickery removing the battery long term can present some issues when you go to reconnect.

If it was me and I really couldn't get power there, I would invest in a good portable charger and just visit every few weeks to top the battery up. If it's a good battery it should be fine for a few weeks to a month. Also a good chance to check on the car and make sure it's still how you left it. A bit of a faff certainly, but I'd rather that than removing the battery altogether.

[Simpo Two]

V2008 said:

Looks like we're rapidly running out of summer, so I'm soon going to be putting my 2008 vantage in a garage for a few months...

They work in winter too... unless there's snow on the road of course. You could just keep using it and enjoy it.

Wheel Turned Out said:

If it was me and I really couldn't get power there, I would invest in a good portable charger and just visit every few weeks to top the battery up.

That's a good idea.

[bogie]

Optimate do a range of solar chargers if you can run a cable up to the garage roof, could be an option.

[Dewi 2]

Hope you can get the battery trickle charging sorted, by either portable method, or solar panel (might need a bigger one for winter use).

There are various opinions about what is best to do, but my methods are:-

Fill fuel tank to brim with best petrol (ie.lowest ethanol percentage). Full tank then contains minimal air, which could turn to moisture.
Garage car following at least a 25 mile run on a dry day, so all the components are hot and dry.
Pump tyres to 40 or 50 psi.
Obviously handbrake off, as you said.
If you have space, occasionally push the car forward or back, to create a different tyre contact parch.
Monitor the humidity in the garage and occasionally check brake discs for shine and no surface corrosion. I sometimes run a dehumidifier, but without power you are stuck there. All that I suppose you could do on that point, is ensure hrough ventilation in the garage, to avoid large temperature differences.
Never be tempted to start the engine, until you can do a 25 mile run.

I have followed that procedure now for 12 winters, with no problems.

[V2008]

Ah yeh thanks for the suggestion of solar.. I might have a little look into that. Presumably a trickle charger doesnt need a lot of umph?

I'll be abroad, the car might still work in winter, unfortunately I don't. Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and pay for a proper storage.. got some quotes and seems to be around £200 a month where I am (Herts).. which seems a little excessive.

Anyone know of a better deal?

[V2008]

Dewi 2 said:

Hope you can get the battery trickle charging sorted, by either portable method, or solar panel (might need a bigger one for winter use).

There are various opinions about what is best to do, but my methods are:-

Fill fuel tank to brim with best petrol (ie.lowest ethanol percentage). Full tank then contains minimal air, which could turn to moisture.
Garage car following at least a 25 mile run on a dry day, so all the components are hot and dry.
Pump tyres to 40 or 50 psi.
Obviously handbrake off, as you said.
If you have space, occasionally push the car forward or back, to create a different tyre contact parch.
Monitor the humidity in the garage and occasionally check brake discs for shine and no surface corrosion. I sometimes run a dehumidifier, but without power you are stuck there. All that I suppose you could do on that point, is ensure hrough ventilation in the garage, to avoid large temperature differences.
Never be tempted to start the engine, until you can do a 25 mile run.

I have followed that procedure now for 12 winters, with no problems.

Thanks that sounds like a plan. Do you do that 'dry start' thing on first use?

Edited by V2008 on Sunday 22 September 23:42

[David W.]

Also park on thick carpet or rubber to spread contact point compared to hard concrete and take some form of rodent protection, bait blocks rather than traps perhaps as you are not around.

[Dewi 2]

V2008 said:

Thanks that sounds like a plan. Do you do that 'dry start' thing on first use?

Yes I always do that, if my Vantage has not been driven for a couple of weeks.
The oil light soon goes out, but having a dry sump, probably best to make use of the feature.

[Dream355r]

If you do go for trickle charging and perhaps solar it can be a tad expensive ..if you have a donor battery there’s no need to remove your battery and can use Ctek free with solar or donor battery to keep everything charged up. Not affiliated to Ctek just used them for years and years ….

https://www.ctek.com/storage/58AA5AFAFF20290107AFD...

[geresey]

Dewi 2 said:

V2008 said:

Thanks that sounds like a plan. Do you do that 'dry start' thing on first use?

Yes I always do that, if my Vantage has not been driven for a couple of weeks.
The oil light soon goes out, but having a dry sump, probably best to make use of the feature.

Could you (or someone) provide the procedure for 2009 4.7 vantage ? I tried following the BR video on it in the past but my lights didn’t seem to do what he’s saying they should so not entirely sure I was doing it right.

[Dewi 2]

geresey said:

Dewi 2 said:

V2008 said:

Thanks that sounds like a plan. Do you do that 'dry start' thing on first use?

Yes I always do that, if my Vantage has not been driven for a couple of weeks.
The oil light soon goes out, but having a dry sump, probably best to make use of the feature.

Could you (or someone) provide the procedure for 2009 4.7 vantage ? I tried following the BR video on it in the past but my lights didn’t seem to do what he’s saying they should so not entirely sure I was doing it right.

Hello geresey,

My Vantage is MY 2009, so identical.
I have just thought though, for Sportshift cars I don't know, but the following is how I do it with my manual.

1. Press down clutch pedal.
2. Press down accelerator pedal. Make jolly sure that it really is fully down, otherwise the engine will start at full revs.
3. Insert key. I press partly in until the red light illuminates, then press further to activate the starter motor.
4. Engine turns over but does not fire. Keep it turning until the oil light goes out, which is probably not very long, then release the glass key.
5. Now start the engine normally.

A few days away from the regular daily stress of life. Emails switched off.
Very relaxed today here on the Gower. Sitting in our room looking across the sandy beach and bay with Port Talbot in the very far distance.

There is one brave person, who swims in the sea each morning.

Edited by Dewi 2 on Wednesday 25th September 11:04

[LTP]

geresey said:

Could you (or someone) provide the procedure for 2009 4.7 vantage ? I tried following the BR video on it in the past but my lights didn’t seem to do what he’s saying they should so not entirely sure I was doing it right.

Following on from Dewi's post, this is how I crank for pressure in my 2015 V8V SSII (I believe it's the BR process, using the brake as a "switch")

1. Insert glass key carefully to "Position II" (Ignition on, key surround turns red showing "cranking available")
2. Right foot firmly on accelerator, flat to the floor. Keep it there throughout the process to Step 6 .
3. Left foot presses footbrake - engine will crank
4. Lift off footbrake after a few seconds to allow starter motor to cool (or after oil light goes out)
5. Press left foot on footbrake again if further cranking required
6. Once oil pressure established, feet off both pedals and remove key from dock
7. Start car normally

[geresey]

Dewi 2 said:

geresey said:

Dewi 2 said:

V2008 said:

Thanks that sounds like a plan. Do you do that 'dry start' thing on first use?

Yes I always do that, if my Vantage has not been driven for a couple of weeks.
The oil light soon goes out, but having a dry sump, probably best to make use of the feature.

Could you (or someone) provide the procedure for 2009 4.7 vantage ? I tried following the BR video on it in the past but my lights didn’t seem to do what he’s saying they should so not entirely sure I was doing it right.

Hello geresey,

My Vantage is MY 2009, so identical.
I have just thought though, for Sportshift cars I don't know, but the following is how I do it with my manual.

1. Press down clutch pedal.
2. Press down accelerator pedal. Make jolly sure that it really is fully down, otherwise the engine will start at full revs.
3. Insert key. I press partly in until the red light illuminates, then press further to activate the starter motor.
4. Engine turns over but does not fire. Keep it turning until the oil light goes out, which is probably not very long, then release the glass key.
5. Now start the engine normally.

A few days away from the regular daily stress of life. Emails switched off.
Very relaxed today here on the Gower. Sitting in our room looking across the sandy beach and bay with Port Talbot in the very far distance.

There is one brave person, who swims in the sea each morning.

Edited by Dewi 2 on Wednesday 25th September 11:04

Thanks. Mines manual too so just be job!