Sticking crystal key
Discussion
Does anyone know of a fix for the crystal key hanging up and not retracting to the correct position after start-up? I have to jiggle it or nudge the side of it with a pick to get it to move into the correct "run" position. I've had it apart and it looks fine and slides fine. Maybe the springs have gotten weak.??? Any options on replacement springs better than paying $500+ for a new slide assembly? I can't e the only one to have this issue.
Aschwartz985 said:
Does anyone know of a fix for the crystal key hanging up and not retracting to the correct position after start-up? I have to jiggle it or nudge the side of it with a pick to get it to move into the correct "run" position. I've had it apart and it looks fine and slides fine. Maybe the springs have gotten weak.??? Any options on replacement springs better than paying $500+ for a new slide assembly? I can't e the only one to have this issue.
"not retracting to the correct position after start-up?"Do you mean spring back to the correct position? - Assume so.
I have to jiggle it or nudge the side of it with a pick to get it to move into the correct "run" position. I've had it apart and it looks fine and slides fine.
Assume you mean the key, and it is the glass key. The plastic one is known to warp in heat and get stuck in the socket.
Maybe the springs have gotten weak.??? Any options on replacement springs better than paying $500+ for a new slide assembly? I can't e the only one to have this issue.
I guess it's possible that springs can weaken, but does jiggling around cause it to pop back into position? If so, I'd suggest there may be something in the socket that is gripping the key when you push it all the way in. If you have to literally prise the key back out (as you suggest) then yes it suggests the spring/s. Maybe it or one of them if more than one is broken.
Assuming that the key hasn't warped (try another key, either a spare, or borrow one from a dealer) so you can 100% rule out the key, then the good news is that removal of the ski slope is very easy, as is accessing and removing the socket mechanism for dismantling of the assembly and inspection of the springs to determine if it/one may have broken. If you get that far, then, broadly, any same coil/wire diameter and length spring will work. Just measure the free length, coil diameter and gauge and number of coils - then the internet will be your friend, it is truly remarkable what random components can be ordered online these days, thanks to Jeff Bezos.
Edited by Calinours on Saturday 21st September 13:34
Correct. It's not springing back to the right "run" position. I'm using the crystal key, not the plastic key. A slight nudge on the side of the key with a small pick will get it to pop back out a couple millimeters to the correct position. I've had the ski slope panel off and inspected the slide assembly which looks fine and slides smoothly. Springs look fine. The key looks fine. I'm thinking it's weak springs and will probably do as you suggested and order something off the internet. I'm not paying Scuderia $522 for a slide assembly.
While you wouldn't expect any steel spring not fatigue failed or stressed beyond elastic limit to work in any way other that it always did, in reality corrosion and rubbing wear can effectively remove material, change the effective gauge and thus rate and effectively weaken the spring. Don't forget to post up your result when you've had a go.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
Following up and a possible answer. I removed ski slope panel and key slide assembly again. After inspecting it better this time, I found some of the chrome finish inside the slide assembly was peeling off. Sanded it down with some 400 grit sandpaper. Also sanded the edges of the plunger (the part with the AM logo where you insert the key). Put some light grease on the metal end of the plunger and reassembled. Seems to be working fine now. Fingers crossed.
Aschwartz985 said:
Following up and a possible answer. I removed ski slope panel and key slide assembly again. After inspecting it better this time, I found some of the chrome finish inside the slide assembly was peeling off. Sanded it down with some 400 grit sandpaper. Also sanded the edges of the plunger (the part with the AM logo where you insert the key). Put some light grease on the metal end of the plunger and reassembled. Seems to be working fine now. Fingers crossed.
I was chatting to the people from Phoenix at the recent AMHT event - they supply customised keys, or will refurbish yours. One thing they told me to check for is there can be some sharp edges on the top and bottom inside the dock assembly which apparently, if they are there, you can feel if you insert your finger where the key goes. These edges can scratch the black plastic top and bottom of the glass key and, to my logic, scratching = friction. Their suggested solution was a little gentle rubbing with some 400-grit wrapped around a finger and inserted into the aperture - obviously avoiding any of the visible surfacesGassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff