Considering buying an R171 SLK
Discussion
I'm looking for a second car to replace the MX5 and came across a 2005 SLK 350 (manual!) in black, with red and black leather interior.
Supposedly has only done 60,000 miles, but doesn't appear to have much of a service history.
Had a test drive today, everything seemed to work and it certainly went well when I put my foot down.
Anything to be wary of when purchasing one of these? Should I get the rear subframes checked out before purchase, or not worry as MB appear to be offering free replacements still.
Do these need to be serviced by a specialist, or should any competent indy be able to look after one?
Supposedly has only done 60,000 miles, but doesn't appear to have much of a service history.
Had a test drive today, everything seemed to work and it certainly went well when I put my foot down.
Anything to be wary of when purchasing one of these? Should I get the rear subframes checked out before purchase, or not worry as MB appear to be offering free replacements still.
Do these need to be serviced by a specialist, or should any competent indy be able to look after one?
My 2005 SLK was off the road and for nearly 6 months with the rear subframe problem, 5 of those months at MB.
I did have a courtesy car supplied from MB, but not an experience I'd wish to repeat.
Buy one that has already had it done if possible.
Don't think low/high miles is a factor with rust.
Check MOT history for brake pipes rusting.
Basic stuff really, check everything works. Lights were rubbish on my 350SLK, worst I've had on any car - new bulbs made hardly any difference and a total pain to change them as - would you guess - screws holding them in all rusted...
See a theme here?
Bi-Xenon or however spelt much better if you are lucky.
I did have a courtesy car supplied from MB, but not an experience I'd wish to repeat.
Buy one that has already had it done if possible.
Don't think low/high miles is a factor with rust.
Check MOT history for brake pipes rusting.
Basic stuff really, check everything works. Lights were rubbish on my 350SLK, worst I've had on any car - new bulbs made hardly any difference and a total pain to change them as - would you guess - screws holding them in all rusted...
See a theme here?
Bi-Xenon or however spelt much better if you are lucky.
Thanks! MOT history looks pretty good.It may have been chavved a bit early in it's life - had advisories for coloured lenses - but apart from that, no hint of rust.
Advert doesn't say if it has xenons, but there's no headlight adjuster, so assume it has.
Digging a bit more into this car and it looks like it's been on their forecourt for about 5 months and has already dropped in price by £1k. Probably going to leave it for now, unless my MX-5 fails it's MOT horribly today..
Advert doesn't say if it has xenons, but there's no headlight adjuster, so assume it has.
Digging a bit more into this car and it looks like it's been on their forecourt for about 5 months and has already dropped in price by £1k. Probably going to leave it for now, unless my MX-5 fails it's MOT horribly today..
As well as those cosmetic points mentioned, many of the pre-2008 cars had a significant engine defect. There are several comprehensive buyer guides online, including this one :
https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threa...
which has a link to this look-up site :
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/check-my-mercedes-be...
This page highlights the several common rust points :
https://www.slkworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-in-c...
My advice is simply to buy the latest and very best one you can afford, NOT a fixer-upper. You can't turn a bad 'un into a good 'un for anything like the price differential between them. And a service history is essential. One major undisclosed defect on a cheap no-history car could cost you as much to fix as the car itself cost.
https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threa...
which has a link to this look-up site :
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/check-my-mercedes-be...
This page highlights the several common rust points :
https://www.slkworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-in-c...
My advice is simply to buy the latest and very best one you can afford, NOT a fixer-upper. You can't turn a bad 'un into a good 'un for anything like the price differential between them. And a service history is essential. One major undisclosed defect on a cheap no-history car could cost you as much to fix as the car itself cost.
frontfloater said:
As well as those cosmetic points mentioned, many of the pre-2008 cars had a significant engine defect. There are several comprehensive buyer guides online, including this one :
https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threa...
which has a link to this look-up site :
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/check-my-mercedes-be...
This page highlights the several common rust points :
https://www.slkworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-in-c...
My advice is simply to buy the latest and very best one you can afford, NOT a fixer-upper. You can't turn a bad 'un into a good 'un for anything like the price differential between them. And a service history is essential. One major undisclosed defect on a cheap no-history car could cost you as much to fix as the car itself cost.
Good points actually.https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threa...
which has a link to this look-up site :
https://www.mercedesmedic.com/check-my-mercedes-be...
This page highlights the several common rust points :
https://www.slkworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-in-c...
My advice is simply to buy the latest and very best one you can afford, NOT a fixer-upper. You can't turn a bad 'un into a good 'un for anything like the price differential between them. And a service history is essential. One major undisclosed defect on a cheap no-history car could cost you as much to fix as the car itself cost.
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